Question about Speed Queen AES17AWF Electric Dryer
My Speed Queen ADE3LRGS171TW01 Electric Dryer won't heat. I tested the heating element, thermal fuse, and high limit thermostat for continuity and all of them have continuity. The dryer drum turns, cold air comes out. The outlet has 220v. I tested it. The timer does make a funny clicking sound, like its clicking several times a second. Any ideas?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Dryer doesn't throw hot air
The heating element have got old and brittle over time and finally gave up the ghost. But it is not always the element. It could be one of the safety Hi-limits have blown. All parts of the dryer will have continuity if its working properly. Test for continuity by using a meter set on Ohms,or use a poor man's meter. You can make your own poor man's meter by using an ordinary flashlight . Break the circuit in the flashlight and add a couple of wires to it so that you can make the light come on in the flashlight, that's right hot wire that flashlight. When the bulb lights up you have a circuit! You now have a poor man's meter. The next step is to check each little gizmo on the dryer that the wires attach to. All the limits attached to the side of the heat element, the door switch (when door is closed) etc.should have continuity (closed circuit)(the light should come on in the poor man's meter) If you come across an thing near the blower housing with 2 wires attached to it, that is a thermal limit, a safety or a control thermostat (So as not to get a false circuit you need to remove one of the wires to each thing you check) Look for lint buildup or blocked vent going out the house. If everything is good and you have paid the electric bill, then the timer could be bad.
Posted on Sep 12, 2009
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Unplug the dryer.
Remove the front panel. Two screws on the bottom left and right about 3 inches from the floor and 3 inches in from the sides.
Lift the panel off.
Remove the 2 screws on the bottom right and left of the door. Pull forward and raise it up to disengage lock tabs. Remove the door switch wires.
Under the top lid you will see 2 screws right and left holding the top on. Remove these and lift the top to the rear of the dryer.
From the floor position, reach in and remove the drum belt from the pulley and tension roller.
Remove the drum from the dryer.
On the bottom left rear of the inside cabinet you will see the heater,fuses and thermostats.
With a volt/ohm meter (vom) set for continuity you can remove at least one wire from each part. Then check for continuity through each part.
If you get no reading the part is bad.
Look for burned/separated wires also.
Reverse the above order to re-install parts.
Posted on Feb 20, 2009
There should be 2 5/16th screws on the bottom panel in front. Then there are 2 more on bottom of top panel. Take off wires to door switch. Take off 4 screws to front bulkhead. Pull it off. Note how belt goes on. Take it off and pull drum.
I would first rotate drum by hand and see where noise is coming from. If inside one of the baffles in drum, you can easily lossen up screws to remove baffle to get things out.
Posted on Jan 12, 2010
SOURCE: dryer will not heat up Does run
It's probably the thermostats that are normally attatched to the element or it could be the element itself. They are nprmally placed in the rear of the appliance.
The thermostats will only cost a few pounds.
Posted on Mar 12, 2010
If you have a gas dryer.
The most common problem with a gas and no heat is the ignitor going bad...
Here is a tip that I wrote about that problem...
Gas Dryer not Working Gas Dryer Not Heating
If your dryer is electric..
There could be a number of different problems...
Check out this tip that I wrote about this problem...
Dryer Troubleshooting Electric Dryer won t Heat
Posted on May 06, 2010
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