Question about Heating & Cooling
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
controllers more than likely on a memory lockout... kill the power and take the batteries out of it... leave it for 60 seconds and try again... unfortunately you are probably going to have to replace the controller, sorry
Posted on Jun 16, 2009
SOURCE: Honeywell RTH230B a/c problem
if you set the thermostat on 70 and your house won't get ant cooler than 72, there is a problem with your system,not your stat. I'm thinking you are low on refrigerant if it is somewhat working. when the unit is running, if you can get your hand on the larger refrigerant line under the black insulation, it should be cold, about 55 degrees.
Posted on Jun 19, 2009
If your unit is running 24/7 you are either low on charge or the unit is to small for your house.
A 20° temperature difference is about normal for the room air vs the air coming out of the ducts, but the room air and the leaving air should keep getting colder and colder.
An air conditioner should cycle approximately 3 maybe 4 times in an hour if it's properly sized.
As for the thermostat thermometer they are very cheap and are more for reference than actual temperature, so if 78° is not comfortable, then you should set it lower but not rely on thermostat being accurate or what the thermometer is saying as long as it is consistent.
The air conditioner and thermostat can also be set below 78°, there's a lot of people set them at 72° and below with no problems.
the only thing is if you have real low humidity you'll need to watch indoor coil or the suction line (the big line) on your outdoor unit and make sure it doesn't freeze up on you.
Posted on Sep 14, 2009
Hi, Just to let you know I have repaired central Heat & Air systems for 33 years and Have seen this problem on many occasions. Lets see if I can save you so many trips.It says you have a programmable stat? On this stat and on a mechanical stat, they have what is called a heat anticipator that controls how many and how often your thermostat turns you're unit off and on and how long it cycles after the stat is satisfied. If you have ever seen under the cover of a mechanical stat, ( mercury switch type) you will see a dial with an arrow with numbers as .1, .3, .4 1.0, or .15 to 1.0 amps.Some are fixed and some are adjustable. On a digital stat, you will have to get into the program and see what the heat anticipator is set on. They come from the factory at .4, but to really find out what you'res should be it takes an amprobe to do this. The setting you need is what you're gas valve requires.I am sure I have lost you, but I am just giving you a little food for thought. If you can get into you're program and set this to .4, great. If the problem continues, your anticipator on this stat is more than likely, shorted, which would require you to buy a new stat.With a shorted anticipator, it will seem to be working like you say, but when satisfied, the temp.keeps falling until you reset power, then it fires and repeats this. Change the stat. If this is central heat and air, just follow red-rc which will have a red jumper to rh for heat, white to w, green to g=fan, and yellow or blue to y = cooling. If you have central heat only, you will find 2 wires red and white.Red to rh with jumper still installed to rc and then white to w.This is quite a long explanation, but I wanted you to know a little more then the next guy about your stat. Please let me know.
Posted on Nov 12, 2009
Yes you can change that by change the number of cycles per hour that your t-stat looks from for youe furnace. Lower the cycles per hour number and it will increase the range.
You can see how to do it here
I hope that this will help you to solve your problem!
Thanks for using Fixya!!
Posted on Dec 12, 2009
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