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Whirlpool electric dryer high thermostat replacement

This is the 3rd time I have had to describe this on the site. I am getting worn out. The solutions I received were not even close. Dryer would not heat. I checked hoses and vent-no problem. I removed back and pulled out heating element. I disconnected 2 red wires and one orange wire with a smaller female connection than the two red wires. I disconnected fuse on the heating element case. I took all to Sears Service Center at White Oak in Silver Spring. When I tried to install the replacement thermostat I found that after I connected all the red wires there was no male connection on the thermostat or dryer for the orange wire with a smaller female connection. There were two , what appear to be adaptors in the bag with the replacement thermostat, one bronze or copper and one aluminum. Am I supposed to replace the female end on one of the two red wires from the dryer that connect to the thermostat so I can mount/piggyback the orange wire on the alternate connection? The bronze one looks like it might work. But which red wire from dryer do I install the adaptor to and how do I do it? No instructions came with part and the Sears computer solution was not even close. Would appreciate any help . Brian Muldoon bdoon51@gmail.com bmuldoon@howardcountymd.gov (410)313-4363

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  • 12,223 Answers

Test all this steps in according with your model, electric or gas. God bless you


Thermal Fuse

If the dryer doesn't heat, but the drum turns, check the thermal fuse(s). The thermal fuse protects the dryer from overheating and helps to prevent fires. If the thermal fuse is blown, it will have to be replaced.


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Gas Valve Solenoid

The gas valve has two or more electric solenoids which open the valve to let the gas flow into the burner assembly. If the dryer doesn't heat one or more of the solenoids may be defective. If the igniter glows for 90 seconds but the burner flame doesn't light, replace these coils as a set.


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Dryer Igniter

If the dryer doesn't heat, the igniter might be burned out. Check the igniter for continuity with an ohm meter. Dryer igniters burn out over time, similar to a light bulb.


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Heating Element

The heating element on an electric dryer can burn out over time. If the dryer doesn't heat, the element should be checked for continuity. The heating element cannot be repaired and must be replaced if defective.


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Heating Element Assembly

The heating element assembly on an electric dryer can burn out over time. If the dryer doesn't heat, the element assembly should be checked for continuity. The heating element assembly cannot be repaired and must be replaced if defective.


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Flame Sensor

Gas dryers have a flame sensor to detect the heat given off by the flame. If the dryer doesn't heat, the flame sensor might be defective. Check the flame sensor for continuity. This is not as common as a burned out igniter or thermal fuse.


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High Limit Thermostat

Although not common, if the dryer doesn't heat the high limit thermostat can be defective. It can be checked for continuity. If the thermostat is "open" the dryer doesn't heat.


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Cycling Thermostat

The cycling thermostat regulates the temperature of the air in the dryer. If the dryer doesn't heat it may be caused by a defective cycling thermostat. This is not common.


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Main Control Board

The main control board is normally not at fault when the dryer doesn't heat. Check all of the other components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the main control board. The main control board cannot be tested easily and must be replaced if it is defective.


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Timer

The timer is normally not at fault if the dryer doesn't heat. In many situations where timers are replaced they end up being returned. Check all of the more common components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the timer.

Posted on Jul 22, 2013

6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

jsrock516
  • 5911 Answers

SOURCE: Have heavy duty kenmore dryer that is heating up.

If the dryer runs, but does not heat, the following link explains how to troubleshoot an electric dryer with a no heat problem:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r630242-dryer_runs_but_not_heat

First, begin by unplugging the dryer and verifying the voltage at the wall receptacle. You should read 220-240VAC across the two Hot terminals (left and right slots). If the voltage is incorrect, check to make sure you don't have a breaker tripped. Some homes use 2 separate 120VAC breakers to provide power to the receptacle vice using one 240VAC breaker.

If the voltage IS correct, leave the dryer unplugged and remove the cover plate on the terminal block in the back of the dryer (this is where the power cord is installed). Plug the dryer back in and take a voltage reading across the two hot (RED and BLACK) wires at the terminal block. You should read 220-240VAC. If the voltage is good, you have an internal heating problem. If the voltage is bad at the terminal block, but good at the receptacle, you have a bad power cord.

NOTE: If the wires at the terminal block are not color coded, the outer two wires (left and right) are the hot leads. The center conductor is neutral or ground.

The reason a dryer will still run if the input voltage is incorrect, is because the drive motor only uses a portion of the 220 service. The motor runs off 110-120VAC, while the heating circuits require 220-240VAC. So, if you are missing 1/2 your input voltage due to a tripped breaker or bad power cord, your dryer may exhibit these symptoms.

If you determine the problem to be internal, the heating circuits will either be located in the rear of the dryer on the right hand, or under the dryer drum on the right hand side. Usually, an easy way to determine is by the location of the lint screen filter. If the filter is on top of the dryer, the heating circuits are in the back of the dryer. If the lint screen is in the door, the heating circuits are located under the dryer drum.

All dryers are not constructed the same. However, the Heating Element is located inside a heater box. The Thermal Cut-Out (TCO) will be located on the outside of the heater box on the end opposite the heating element terminals. The Hi-Limit Thermostat will be located adjacent to the heating element terminals. These two components work in conjunction the control the temperature of the heating circuitry. NOTE: If you are having repeated problems with heating circuit failures, I would recommend you inspect the entire length of the dryer exhaust vent ducting to esnure it is not kinked or clogged anywhere. Follow up with an inspectin of the dryer interior cabniet. A dryer in a clogged state will actually overheat to the point of failure. Most commonly the TCO fails. Eventually this will lead to heating element failure.

If either the TCO or Hi-Limit Thermostat are determined to be bad, replace BOTH components at the same time. That is why these components are commonly sold as a set. Failure to do so may result in premature failure of any parts you replace.

All these parts can be found at appliancepartspros.com, searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, or repairclinic.com. The average cost of these components varies, so shop around for the best price.

If you have any questions, please post back with your complete model number so that I may be able to provide you with better assistance. I hope you find this information helpful.

Posted on Oct 08, 2009

watugot
  • 290 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore Electric Dryer Model # 110.62622101

I think on your machine the lower thermostat connected to one terminal of the element, you have a wire coming from the thermal cut off down to the top terminal of the lower thermostat, a wire from the lower thermostat to the timer, and a wire going to the other terminal of the element.
You probably have the wire from the cut-off correct as it won't reach the other terminals. You have crossed the other 2 wires. This caused 240V to short across the lower thermostat and burned it out.
You will need a new Hi-limit thermostat, which will include the upper cut-off as well. They come as a set part# 279816. This will be a little different because the new hi-limit will not connect directly to the element. There will be all the wire ends and instructions with it that you need to get it hooked up correctly.
There should be a wiring diagram inside the console of the dryer that shows which wires go where, but I am sure you have crossed the 2 wires below the hi-limit switch.
Post back if you need any help.
Thanks/Mike

Posted on Dec 02, 2007

SOURCE: changing heater element in kenmore dryer (110.60702990)

the orange wire is for the timer if you do not connect it then the cycles wont work.the timed cycle will but not the other cycles.

Posted on Nov 13, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Admiral Dryer (Model # ADE7005AYW) wire connector burning causing no heat

I had the same problem with my dryer. Fixed it with high temp wire (875 F) and end connectors rated for the same temperature. Make good connections between the wire and the connectors because if they are poor they will heat up as well. Sometimes the thermostat will cause this problem as well or an older heating element that is going bad.

Posted on Jan 18, 2009

hiltonjug
  • 612 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore dryer no heat?

Sounds like the terminal block shorted. This was caused most likely by a broken element. It's located in a pan on the inside back panel of the dryer. It's a coil type, meaning that it comes in a bag and you have to stretch it out and string it. It's not hard and the bag has the instructions. It will even tell you how far to stretch the coil before you string it. The thermal limiter fuse is a normally closed switch that opens on the rise. When the heat at the element gets 220 degrees, it cuts power to elements. There is also a thermostat that is located on the vent housing that is the same kind but looks a little different, when the temp reaches 260 degrees inside the vent, it opens.
If it were mine, I would replace the element and the terminal block. I would also check the thermostat and the thermal limiter fuse and see if they have continuity. If so, it's ready to go and should be fine for years in theory. Good luck

Posted on Oct 19, 2009

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1. If the noise coming from your dryer can be described as a clanging sound, the solution is probably well within your grasp. This common sound is typically the result of loose debris accidentally put in with the load of laundry. Change may be left in pockets of pants or other objects may be dropped in the laundry basket by children --- perhaps a toy car. The objects may not be noticed when put into the wash, and the water in the washer may have dampened the sound. Simply remove these items, and restart the dryer to resolve the issue.
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This is a matter of changing the dryer belt. In the process of the belt change check the drum felts front and rear for excessive wear, Worn drum felts / seals can losen the belt so the idler travels to tighten the loose belt and can cause the belt safety switch to be activated. .

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