Question about Dryers
Trying to replace high thermostat and heating element. Replacement thermostat I purchased at Sears Service Center at White Oak (New Hampshire Ave at US 29/Columbia Rd/Colesville Rd) in Silver Spring Maryland did not have enough male prongs to connect to the two red wires and one orange wire (with a smaller female prong connection)from my dryer which had been connected to the original thermostat (which I disconnected from the original thermostat so I could take that part to Sears Service Center). However I did note that the replacement thermostat came with two alternate connections of female ends . Am I supposed to remove the female connection on one of the red wires from the dryer and attach one of these two alternate female connections so the orange wire can connect to it? The bronze alternate female connection that came with the replacement thermostat looks like it may have a male connection prong for the orange wire but: How to I connect this alternate female end to one of the two dryer red wires and which red wire from the dryer do I connect it to? I marked all the dryer wires when I disconnected them from the original thermostat. The highest red wire was marked "1", the orange wire was marked "2" and the lower red wire was marked "3". I assume it goes on one of the red wires but which one and how do I attach it? By the way I also gave my old heating element to Sears Service Center and they gave me a replacement whose connecting holes for screws did not match connection holes on dryer so rather than screw it I just duct taped it in place. Thank you Brian Muldoon (410)313-4363 email@example.com firstname.lastname@example.org wife's cell: (240) 426-0260
If that is an OEM part you SHOULD NOT have to cut or change anything!! What is the model of the machine? What is the part number of the new and old parts. IF YOU CAN EDIT YOUR POST, remove the personal information
Posted on Jul 24, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
doesn't matter both are 110v lines but if you want look up to top screw connections the wires coming to those screws are also colored as long as the red and black are to outside screws dryer will work ok
Posted on Aug 07, 2008
the orange wire is for the timer if you do not connect it then the cycles wont work.the timed cycle will but not the other cycles.
Posted on Nov 13, 2008
You can if you want to, but it's not generally necessary. Here's a picture of a 3 prong configuration with a ground strap...
That green wire with the yellow stripe is a ground and it is most definitely connected to the cabinet somewhere. So it will serve as the ground strap (in the above picture).
Here's the thing... say you were going from a 3 prong to a 4 prong. That is, the dryer was originally "designed" for a 3 prong. This means you'd have to "retrofit" it a bit. Take a look at this pic... ( I made this for someone else, so please disregard my somewhat hostile remarks, OK?)
The ground strap has been removed and has been replaced by the ground to the frame. Yours probably does NOT have a ground strap, though... yours uses that Green/Yellow wire for frame ground.
All of that to say this. Don't lose sleep over it. Ya done good.
Posted on May 02, 2009
Under the new Codes...all dryers (and stoves/ovens) must now be 4 wire....having a seperate neutral and ground wire in NEW construction. In decades past, the neutral was allowed to serve as both - the neutral and ground - typically by means of a solid metal strap or wire strap that bonded that connection to the metal frame of the dryer. This sounds as if it is the case in your existing dryer...which was typical.
But...the old arrangement wasn't always reliable...and a seperate dedicated ground provides a greater safety path in the event of a fault inside the dryer (lowering the chance the user may get a shock when touching the frame of the dryer).
To modify your existing 3 prong dryer over to 4....you'll need to remove the 3 wire - disconnect the ground strap (or wire) that bonds the neutral to the frame of the dryer...and install your 4 wire so that you'll have (from left to right) one hot, one neutral, one hot connection...and connect the ground directly to he frame of the dryer (there is usually a green screw near the dryer connection block for this ground)
For more on this - with an illustration, see:
When done properly, you can test for correct wiring and connection with an ohm-meter (continuity check)...by checking for continuity from the ground prong on the plug to the frame of the dryer...you should see continuity. Then check for continuity from the neutral prong on the plug to the frame...you should NOT see continuity....nor should you see any continuity between the neutral connection at the wiring block to the metal frame.
The whole purpose of the Code change to the 4 wire is to seperate the neutral from ground to provide additional safety for the user.
Hope this helps,....
Posted on Nov 29, 2009
I have a Maytage Gas Dryer Model SDG515DAWW that Starts up fine but once it heats up ahd the gas shuts off the first time it will not come back on. The blower keeps running but no heat
Posted on Dec 14, 2009
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