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Hello Michael Smith - I am happy to assist you. First, I will need a valid model number (and serial number if you have it) to better address the issue at hand. The serial tag is typically located inside the cabinet, on the right side wall. What exactly is the issue the unit is experiencing? Is the auger motor not working properly or damaged?
This is probably from the frozen water problem on these refrigerators. GE has a problem with the insulation that was used in the doors up to about 2006. Hotpoint has the same problem. I don't know if newer GE-made refrigerators have fixed this, but GE sells a heater to install to keep the pipe from freezing. What has happened is that the water has frozen in the door approximately five inches down the tube. It freezes because the insulation has become compromised (ie, full of moisture) and no longer insulates well enough. People have reported this after a short time of use like 1-5 years. Mine started after about 4 years.
The easiest way to thaw it is to turn the refrigerator off and open the
door. Wait a half hour or so and the pipe will thaw out. Another way is
to take a hair dryer blower to the pipe - don't let it get too hot so
that the pipe melts! This takes just about as long, but the door can
remain closed - shorter time if you open the door.
The heater fix from GE just puts off the problem, eventually even the heater won't keep it from freezing. If you are willing to just put off the problem, I suggest taking a piece of fine copper wire about 6 inches long about the diameter of a twist tie (I have used twist ties but the wire is steel and rusts) and insert it into the water tube on the refrigerator after you thaw it out. Leave about 1/4 to 1/2" of wire sticking out so that it picks up heat and delivers it down the wire to the freezing area.
The real repair is to replace the insulation that has gone bad, but that includes taking the door apart or drilling a hole in the door, removing the insulation and stuffing some new insulation in there. I don't recommend this because there is too much chance that you will damage the stuff inside the door. So the other way is to put new insulation on the outside of the inner surface of the door. One person used a flexible Styrofoam sheet (3/8 - 1/2" thick) that was large enough to cover the flat part of the inside of the door. Tape the insulation to door using something like RV roof repair tape (it is white and will adhere mightily to the plastic pieces and the foam and doesn't look half bad). When installing this sheet of material - make certain that the door can close without squashing it. Cut the piece long enough to reach from the area below the ice cube spout to the top of the top shelf.
I have not actually used this insulating method described, but a person on another forum has and it works. The method with the wire works also - I use it on my Hotpoint side-by-side. The other thing to do is raise the temperature in the refrigerator using a lower setting number. I have mine set on 2 rather than 5 that it was set on when I got it. The temperature in the refrigerator should be 35-36 F and the freezer above 0 F. At the 5 setting I had 32 F and -3 F.
this fridge unit isnt well known to me but most follow suit in design. I would say having an electronic board normally refers that there is an auger motor controlling the fridge temperature. As the demand for temp. is needed the electronic sensor will instruct the new board to open and close the auger motor flap accordingly. Possibly the motor is stuck or faulty or the sensor faulty. My bet is to check the auger motor. Call him in again and ask him to check it with you. (Normally mechanical control works with a thermostat whereas an electronic control works with an auger.
We researched this problem for our GE, & it's common on the model GSH25JFR. When the insulation for the door was being applied they did not tape down the tubing for the water. The thicker insulation pushes the tube right up against the ice maker causing it to freeze. You'll need to get a new left side door from GE to solve the problem.
It might help to raise the temp a little but GE is known to have that problem. They make a special heater to install to prevent it. $250.00 Or a little cheaper solution is to tape insulation to the inside of the door at the area where it freezes. Or if you complain enough to GE they may replace to door since they know about the problem and have replaced some door for free.
The water line runs through the door and this is where it freezes. It's usually defetive insulation. Other than replace the door you may can tape or other wise fasten more insulation to the inside of the door in the area you think it's freezing in.
Ouch, if your auger won't turn, pull out the ice tray unit. At the back you will see the gear for the auger unit. Try and move it, both clockwise and counterclockwise. If it won't turn - you have a motor problem and needs replacement. If it turns too freely, then you have a weak motor and it will not push the ice.
Check the bottom of the Ice Tray where the ice dumps in. It may have a slight water leak and be freezing ice on the bottom of the auger. Or maybe the door itsself is freezing shut from room air getting into the down spout causeing it to freeze up then pops off when you want ice.You description sounds mechanical not electrical so I wouldn't think a switch would help you.