Question about Refrigerators
Problems regulating freezer temp goes up and down from 6deg. to 11deg. should be at 0 deg. while refrigerator maintains constant 38 deg. doors shut tight, tried reseting control pad, tried unplugging and then temp shot up to 22deg immediately, fan seams to be running fine but. what should i do? is it malfunctioning ?????
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
well i hate to be the one to give you the bad news but most likely a bad thing... your compressor is 1. either weak, or 2 you are running low on freon....
Posted on Apr 28, 2009
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The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others. You can post your model number into one of several appliance parts sites on the internet and search for defrost components to find your parts.
Posted on Jan 07, 2010
Your problem may be with:
* the "damper control assembly", which is located in the upper left side of the fresh food compartment. This control regulates the amount of cold air originating from the freezer compartment that enters the fresh food compartment.
* there may be an issue with the "fresh food temperature control assembly"
Check the temperature settings in the fresh food compartment (should be located up front). I recommend the "one-half way mark" for both freezer and fresh food compartments.
Contact an appliance service company.
Posted on Feb 20, 2010
I see this happen a lot on these models. The defrost control board is part of four operations. If you changed the Defrost control board then one of the two thermostats is not responding to changes in temperature settings. For freezer if turning the thermostat warmer should cause the compressor not to run as much and open the damper and regulate. If the only place the thermostat setting is placed to off and it responds only to off I would believe that thermostat is the reason. I believe you are on the right track to repair but if you have a look at the wiring diagram you see the connection and point I'm trying to make here. Let me place the diagram and send you a link shortly, Thanks, Sea Breeze
Posted on Feb 20, 2010
SOURCE: Refridgerator not cooling
That fan at the top has to remain on during cooling or you get the temps. you describe. To check this you need a voltage meter. Got to get to the fan and have to check if there is voltage 120v when it shuts off. If there is still voltage present when it shuts off then change the fan, if no volts when it shuts off then change the timer. need complete model cause this one may have an adapative timer.. i fixed one with the same problem last year.
Posted on Mar 28, 2010
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