Question about Hamilton Beach The Scoop Single Serve Coffeemaker

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Has stopped brewing. Blue "bold" light just blinks then goes out.

Has worked well for about 7 months since purchase. Now it will not brew, the blue bold or regular light just blinks a couple times and goes out. No brewing of the water put in occurs.

Posted by Anonymous on

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Won't brew a full pot.

well I hope this helps some, i was having a similar problem with my brewstation and decided to take it apart ( why not, it's already broken! ) this machine has seen a year of very heavy use and I could not bring myself to just throw it away. It would take forever to brew and I would have to turn it off and on several times to brew a full pot. I unplugged the machine, emptied out the water and turned it on it's back. Remove the 4 phillipshead screws and the two torx screws from the bottom ( if you dont have torx handy like me just gently pry the two halves apart till the screws pull through- after you have removed the phillips heads!) at this point the bottom will just come right off, no special tricks. You will now see a horseshoe shaped aluminum tube with orange silicone tubes at either ends of it, this is the heatime element. slide the small hose clamps back away from the element on the hoses and pull the hoses off both sides of the element end only, this will require a little elbow grease to do. Now carefully remove the two phillips screws securing the heating element to the maker BE OBSERVANT AS TO HOW THE WASHERS AND SPACERS ARE SECURED and remove them. To give yourself a little room for the element to come further out of the machine also remove the wiring clamp from the inside, it is a white half "c" plastic piece with 2 screws holding it, it is securing about 7 wires down with wire nuts on them. Once this is removed it will give you enough play to pull the heating element several inches away from the machine, do so. Now look inside the tubes of the element and you should see one side looks clear and clean and the other end is probably going to be clogged solid with tan colored gunk, the water could not pass through!. I took a piece of metal coat hangar (all i had around at the time) and bent it to the conture of the element and used it to **** out the element, uncloging it. this takes a little time because the buildup is very hard to break up. Once that is done carefully wash out the element getting all the build up that was broken up out, CLEAN IT GOOD!. The next step is to dry the exterior and make sure all the wiring is dry, try not to wet the wires at the wiring nuts or it may short out. Now re assemble the machine, run cleaner through and enjoy a cup of coffee !!

Posted on Oct 13, 2008

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  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: stops brewing before all water empties from reservoir

I went to Hamilton Beach site and read the troubleshooting. I followed there cleaning instructions and reduced grind time on my coffee and the machine is working perfectly again. I stressed over this problem for a long time before following their operating instructions. Have had the machine for over two years now and it's back to working perfectly. i.e. Run a pint of white vinegar through it. Wait 30 minutes and run another full vat of water....wait again and run another full vat of water. If you're grinding your own coffee, you may be grinding it too fine. Otherwise Hamilton Beach recommends the kind of coffee to use. Also the problem maybe too dense of a filter. This is all info I got on the H. Beach troubleshooting site. Good Luck !!! Mine is back to working great !

Posted on Dec 13, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: our hamilton beach 10 cup brewmaster coffee pot

If you have tried tried to clean the unit according to the manufacturer and the problem still persists you may have a something that has become lodged in the check valve. Unfortunately, unless you have a special screw driver required to remove the two anti-tamper screws fastening the bottom cover to the unit, and are willing to void the warranty if still covered, you will not be able to service the unit yourself. If so, before preceding make sure the unit is unplugged from the electrical outlet and any water remaining in the holding tank is removed by holding the unit upside down over a sink. Caution water may still be hot.

With the bottom panel removed locate the rubber hose connecting the heating tube to the bottom of the holding tank. Important... Before removing the hose be sure to make note of the orientation and position of the check valve as it must reinstall in the same direction and position in the hose. To remove the hose slide both clips toward the check valve and remove. Note that the clips are of different sizes. The large is used on the tank end, the smaller is used on the metal heating tube end. With the hose removed, carefully slide the check valve out of the tube and remove any debris that may have become lodged in the valve. You may need to remove the plastic ball from the three prong holder to do so. Do not use any sharp metal objects to remove the ball that could damage it. Once cleaned reassemble the valve and place it back into the hose. Reattach hose making sure not to leave any kinks in the hose and that the check valve is properly installed in the same direction and position in the hose as before. Besure to reinstall bottom cover before returning the coffee maker to service. To prevent electrocution.. Do Not plug unit in with bottom cover removed.

Posted on Mar 29, 2009

  • 18 Answers

SOURCE: I purchased a used unit.

No valve should be a part of this machine, other than a back-flow that works automatically when you insert the water reservoir.

The pump may have failed or you may have a kink in the line.

This model is not intended to be serviced, it is more of a disposable unit. You can however pry the top off of the unit to check the lines for kinks.

Posted on Jun 11, 2009

  • 291 Answers

SOURCE: my hamilton beach brew stations quits after

You just need to run white vinegar through it. Put white vinegar in the same way you do water (but don't put any coffee grounds in the basket). Run it as many times as it takes to get all the vinegar out, and then run it again three or four times the same way. After it runs normally, run water through it until the vinegar smell is gone.

The cause of the slow brewing is that the water you normally use has some amount of hardness to it, and over time the hard water minerals build up on the heating element inside the machine. The buildup prevents the heating element from heating the water as fast as designed. The vinegar will dissolve the minerals and let the heater work at full capacity again.

If you want to avoid this in the future, just run the white vinegar through it once a month or so even if it's not running slow.

Posted on Jan 31, 2010

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We have a Krups KP1010 Pod Brewing machine. The brew button is stuck and is blinking, but will not brew coffee. How can I reset?


For those of you having problems with your KRUPS KP1010 Pod brewer stopping brewing in mid-cycle and then having the blue led power light blink rapidly, I have found the cause of the problem as well as a solution.
I have a Krups KP1010 pod brewer at home that is nearly 2 years old and has NEVER had a problem. Having enjoyed it’s continued great performance, when a small group (8 people) of people in my office decided to go "POD", we pooled our money to purchase the Krups.
After 8 months of moderate, not heavy, use, this problem developed. It got worse and worse, so bad that it would stop almost instantly after pressing the brew button. Sometimes it would work as normal, and other times, we found that if you applied pressure to the top lid, it would work completely.
This started me thinking that there must be a sensor switch inside to detect when the lid is open. This suspicion was backed up by the fact that when the Pod brewer was ON, but IDEL, if you open the lid, the blue light would and should blink.
Here is what I did to fix it.
If you are at all handy with taking things apart and making small minor repairs, this problem can be easily fixed rather quickly.
There is a total of 8 screws to remove. Four are located at the bottom of the unit and are the same size. Two more are located under the water tank reservoir, so you will have to remove the water tank to access them. These two screws are the same size at the four that you removed from the bottom of the unit. The last two screws are located at the top of the tank, BEHIND the lid, but can easily be seen when you remove the water tank. Turn the KP1010 around so that the tank is facing you. When you have the tank removed, look at the top area of the body of the pod brewer. These are the last two screws that you will have to remove. They are NOT the same size as the other six, and you will likely need a smaller jewelers sized Philips screw driver to remove them.
Once you get the back of the unit off, with the water tank side of the brewer facing you (coffee pod area facing AWAY from you), look in the upper right corner. Unlock the latch at the front of the brewer. Now while looking in through the back water tank area, in the upper right corner, gently raise and lower the brewer lid. You will notice that there is a LID SENSOR SWITCH. The switch is defective and, like a washing machine, when the lid is OPENED, the switch cuts the circuit (power) to the brewer, the same as when the washing machine stops when you open the lid.
The Fix: While Pod brewer is UNPLUGGED, gently grasp one of the two connector wires attached to the lid sensor switch. BE SURE TO GRAB IT FROM THE METAL CONNECTOR AND NOT THE BLACK WIRE ITSELF AS YOU MAY PULL THE WIRE AWAY FROM THE METAL CONNECTOR AND WHILE IT IS STILL REPAIRABLE AT THIS POINT, IT WILL BE MUCH MORE TIME AND SKILL CONSUMING.
Once you have removed the wire and it’s metal connector from the lid sensor switch, repeat this process with the OTHER black wire connected to the lid sensor switch.
(I tested this fix by at FIRST using basic tape) The fix for bypassing the lid sensor switch is to connect both black wires together. I initially used basic tape to ensure that my suspected cause of this problem would be fixed by my suspected solution. I then brewed 3 tanks of water back to back and the "stop brewing, rapidly flashing blue light" problem NEVER appeared. FIXED!
Now to be a bit more professional about it……… I removed the tape and soldered the metal connectors of both black wires together, and then wrapped with electrical tape. You COULD just wrap them together snugly with electrical tape if your NOT into soldering, but for the best, most secure connection, SOLDERING is the best option as there is no chance of vibration causing the black wire metal contacts from intermittently losing contact with each other. Again, if you are un-comfortable with soldering, at least try wrapping the wires snugly together with electrical tape.
Today our Krups KP1010 brewed flawlessly all day. The ONE downside to consider in this procedure is that now after having this "fix" performed, should you leave the lid of the brewer OPEN and start a brew cycle, the brewer WILL operate and shoot hot water & steam out everywhere. However, for those of you that own this brewer, you should know that having the lid open nearly completely obstructs you from easily reaching the brew button AND, what moron would leave the lid open and try to make coffee? If someone does that, they DESERVE to get burned!!
Best of Luck!!
Ed

May 08, 2008 | Krups KP1010 2-Cup Coffee Maker

2 Answers

KP1010 Blue light blink really fast


For those of you having problems with your KRUPS KP1010 Pod brewer stopping brewing in mid-cycle and then having the blue led power light blink rapidly, I have found the cause of the problem as well as a solution.
I have a Krups KP1010 pod brewer at home that is nearly 2 years old and has NEVER had a problem. Having enjoyed it’s continued great performance, when a small group (8 people) of people in my office decided to go "POD", we pooled our money to purchase the Krups.
After 8 months of moderate, not heavy, use, this problem developed. It got worse and worse, so bad that it would stop almost instantly after pressing the brew button. Sometimes it would work as normal, and other times, we found that if you applied pressure to the top lid, it would work completely.
This started me thinking that there must be a sensor switch inside to detect when the lid is open. This suspicion was backed up by the fact that when the Pod brewer was ON, but IDEL, if you open the lid, the blue light would and should blink.
Here is what I did to fix it.
If you are at all handy with taking things apart and making small minor repairs, this problem can be easily fixed rather quickly.
There is a total of 8 screws to remove. Four are located at the bottom of the unit and are the same size. Two more are located under the water tank reservoir, so you will have to remove the water tank to access them. These two screws are the same size at the four that you removed from the bottom of the unit. The last two screws are located at the top of the tank, BEHIND the lid, but can easily be seen when you remove the water tank. Turn the KP1010 around so that the tank is facing you. When you have the tank removed, look at the top area of the body of the pod brewer. These are the last two screws that you will have to remove. They are NOT the same size as the other six, and you will likely need a smaller jewelers sized Philips screw driver to remove them.
Once you get the back of the unit off, with the water tank side of the brewer facing you (coffee pod area facing AWAY from you), look in the upper right corner. Unlock the latch at the front of the brewer. Now while looking in through the back water tank area, in the upper right corner, gently raise and lower the brewer lid. You will notice that there is a LID SENSOR SWITCH. The switch is defective and, like a washing machine, when the lid is OPENED, the switch cuts the circuit (power) to the brewer, the same as when the washing machine stops when you open the lid.
The Fix: While Pod brewer is UNPLUGGED, gently grasp one of the two connector wires attached to the lid sensor switch. BE SURE TO GRAB IT FROM THE METAL CONNECTOR AND NOT THE BLACK WIRE ITSELF AS YOU MAY PULL THE WIRE AWAY FROM THE METAL CONNECTOR AND WHILE IT IS STILL REPAIRABLE AT THIS POINT, IT WILL BE MUCH MORE TIME AND SKILL CONSUMING.
Once you have removed the wire and it’s metal connector from the lid sensor switch, repeat this process with the OTHER black wire connected to the lid sensor switch.
(I tested this fix by at FIRST using basic tape) The fix for bypassing the lid sensor switch is to connect both black wires together. I initially used basic tape to ensure that my suspected cause of this problem would be fixed by my suspected solution. I then brewed 3 tanks of water back to back and the "stop brewing, rapidly flashing blue light" problem NEVER appeared. FIXED!
Now to be a bit more professional about it……… I removed the tape and soldered the metal connectors of both black wires together, and then wrapped with electrical tape. You COULD just wrap them together snugly with electrical tape if your NOT into soldering, but for the best, most secure connection, SOLDERING is the best option as there is no chance of vibration causing the black wire metal contacts from intermittently losing contact with each other. Again, if you are un-comfortable with soldering, at least try wrapping the wires snugly together with electrical tape.
Today our Krups KP1010 brewed flawlessly all day. The ONE downside to consider in this procedure is that now after having this "fix" performed, should you leave the lid of the brewer OPEN and start a brew cycle, the brewer WILL operate and shoot hot water & steam out everywhere. However, for those of you that own this brewer, you should know that having the lid open nearly completely obstructs you from easily reaching the brew button AND, what moron would leave the lid open and try to make coffee? If someone does that, they DESERVE to get burned!!
Best of Luck!!
Ed

Oct 22, 2007 | Krups KP1010 2-Cup Coffee Maker

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