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You can go here: http://www.singerco.com/accessories/instruction-manuals/search?man_model_no=3116 for a free download of the manual. If the instructions seem to be written for a rocket scientist, just look at the pictures and duplicate with your machine.
back seat don't need to come out if you were setting in back on each side near the windows the are to tabs near bottom of seat under the back of your knees where they bend. push in ******* the tabs try to lift seat up as tabs are pushed.will see metal plate like object with wire running through hold in metal piece. metal piece glued down pry up metal piece don't break wire that is hook on to your gas filter.
Is the fuse in properly? Try popping it out and put it back in, also check it when it is out..just to be redundant since you did it already. push on the bottom of the filter the switch pushes in . I at pushed down my first time.
Ok, it sounds like you're either not getting fuel though the jets in the carb or you've got a bad vacuum leak. You said that you replaced all three "rubbers" on the intake. I'm assuming you're talking about the intake manifold gaskets and the carburetor seal on the opening of the intake. When you put the air filter backing plate back on the carb, did you have to lift or push down on the carb to get the three small screws or the two large bolts into alignment with their respective holes? If so, you didn't have your intake properly aligned and your engine is probably sucking air at the carburetor seal on the opening of the intake. Loosen the four bolts that hold the intake onto the heads and allow it to align itself with the air filter and carb. Then retighten the bolts. This should work. If not, I'd replace them again. Do not tighten the bolts until you insert the carb and bolt the air filter backing plate up to align the intake. Once you've done this and tightened the four bolts, you can take the backing plate back off and finish connecting the carb. Harley makes a "tool" for doing this. It has three studs that stick into the three holes on the front of the carb and the bolts that hold the backing plate to the heads. It holds the intake in the proper position while you tighten the four bolts on the intake flanges. You can do the same thing with the carb like I've described here but it's a bit more work. The choke on your carb is actually an "enricher" circuit. When open, it draws fuel directly from the float bowl, not through the jets. If the carb won't idle without the "choke" on, it's not getting fuel through the idle circuit. Turn the idle mixture screw in until it lightly bottoms then back it back out three turns. Start from there.
If you have a HEPA filter, it may need cleaning. Every month at least. If you figured you don't NEED one because of the machines abilities to knock down particulates, you're most likely right. HEPA "filters" tend to grow their OWN nasties after a short time with ANY moisture around at all. The plate may have VOC's crystallizing on the plate. Check the lint screen and if it doesn't smell bad(musty) and you can see light thru it when you hold it up to a light, it's probably only needing a vacuuming. Some people rinse them in warm soapy water. Make sure it's DRY before putting it back in.
Yes, there is a seal on the intake at both heads. It's a cone type seal and yes a shade tree mechanic can do the work provided he is a good shade tree mechanic. LOL The flanges on the intake that bolts to the heads are marked with an "F" and an "R" to designate front and rear flange. When you put the intake back on, replace the carb seal as well where the carb plugs into the intake. Leave the intake flange bolts loose, put the carb in the intake seal and bolt the air filter backing plate up to the carb and the heads before you tighten the intake flange bolts. The purpose of this is to align the intake properly. If you don't, you'll have to force the carb up or down to get the air filter backing plate bolts in and then you'll create a vacuum leak at the carb seal. So, bolt all the stuff up temporarily to align the intake, tighten the intake flange bolts, and then take the air filter backing plate and carb back off to complete the cable connections and other stuff. This step is very important to prevent vacuum leaks.
The plate is going bad. Sometimes it's just a bad part of the plate that has corrosion under it, try turning the plate and sliding in again. Sometimes that's all it needs. Sometimes it just needs to be brushed well, cleaned, and then blow-dried.
I had the same problem with my pool filter last year. Found out one of the plates that holds the filter "fingers" was cracked. They also tell me that one of the filter fingers can be torn. Usually it's one of the plates. What make and model do you have ?
Remove wall plate back box by removing the two screws on the front face
Fix wall plate to skirting board or wall with screws supplied, allowing adequate space for cable entry
Insert exisiting telephone wires into screw connections on the ADSL face plate, following cable colour coding according to the list below, and ensure screws are correctly tightened
Screw wall plate onto the back box with the screws supplied, ensuring screws are sufficiently tightened
Cable Colour Coding
1. Not Used
2. Blue with white banding
3. Orange with white banding
4. White with orange banding
5. White with blue banding
6. Not Used
No need for external filter
Surface fitting, replaces existing wallplate
With back box
* If more than one phone or fax IS required to run off the same line, simply add more filters where required. Each individual piece of equipment will require a seperate ADSL filter
* Multiple telephone connections, long runs of cable (over 20m) or low quality telephone cable can adverely effect the performance of your connection speed
Before carrying out any electrical work, always switch off at the mains. If in doubt consult a qualified electrician.
Item Code: 41603016
Distributed by Commtel UK Ltd www.commteluk.com
It might be worth mentioning that this filter swaps the polarity of the telephone wires: I don't know why. I rewired mine to use it as a master socket, and I have connected the other extensions to the filtered output. This can improve broadband speeds: see http://www.rob-r.co.uk/other/UKphonecatwiring.htm
This machine needs to be vented to the outside of the building. There is an air exhause port at the back of the unit to which you attach the exhaust piping. Also try cleaning the filters. these are pullout filters at the top of the back plate of the unit.
Hope this helps