Question about Whirlpool Ovens
My whirlpool oven model WOS51E wont turn on. When I hit the bake feature it indicates feature not available
Most common problems:
1. calrod unit not working(heating element) easy replacement
2. breaker tripped.(sometimes a double breaker will only trip one of the circuit breakers so you end up with half power)
Posted on Dec 24, 2015
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
On these older ovens ther is usually always 120 volts on the elements at all times.
If you check across the element ends with it in bake you should read 240V. If not, there is a problem with the control. With the voltage drop you describe, it sounds like you are losing power on one line of voltage coming to the element.
Post back to let me know what you find out or if you have any questions.
Posted on Nov 24, 2007
There is a design problem with certain model Whirlpool ranges where the thermal fuse blows during self-cleaning (auto-clean). This may be because of inadequate insulation, causing the outer panel to overheat. When the thermal fuse is replaced, the range will work, but it will blow the next time auto-clean is done. To safely work around the problem, the thermal fuse may be replaced with a thermostat, which will reset itself once the oven has partially cooled off. If the part number of the thermal fuse is 9759243, it will blow at 120 deg C (248 deg F). This can be replaced to a Selco Part# SES-L250 thermostat. The terminals are perpendicular (90 degrees), so they have to be bent to 30 degrees for the wires to fit behind the back panel.
Selco part# SES-L250 specs:
3/4 in. disc
open on-rise (normally closed)
open (cut-out): 250 deg F
close (cut-in): 220 deg F
temperature differential: 40 deg F
Available: Selco distributors: http://www.selcoproducts.com/distributors.php
and online at
Allied Electronics http://www.alliedelec.com
If the Selco SES-L250 'surface mount' thermostat is not available, an 'airstream type' thermostat can be used with a few differences:
1) I recommend to replace it to a 240 or 230 deg F thermostat. The reason for the lower cut-out temperature is that an 'airstream mount' thermostat will not be flush with the back panel, as is the original 250 deg F 'surface mount' one, so it may cut-out at a higher (unsafe) temperature.
2) I recommend to add Heat-sink compound between the thermostat and the sheet metal. This is used for computer processors and is available at computer and electronic component stores.
3) An 'airstream type' thermostat is thicker than the original 'surface mount' one, so longer screws will have to be obtained. The sheet metal tabs on the thermostat will bend slightly when installing.
4) The terminals are perpendicular (90 degrees), so they have to be bent to 30 degrees for the wires to fit behind the back panel.
Recommended 'airstream type' thermostats:
General Electric LS2-240
Posted on Nov 03, 2009
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It could be that your lower element is burnt out or ready to
burn out. They last 3-5 years depending how much you use your
Disconnect POWER to the stove, remove the screws holding the lower element to the back of the inside of the stove, pull out carefully and remove the 2 screws holding the wires on. Check the element with an ohm meter, it should read 0 (zero or very close) resistance on an ohm meter. You may also take it to a store that sells replacements ($25) and they may check it for you.
Posted on Nov 20, 2009
As per the problem you submitted ,According to the manufacturer service pointer cause of the intermittent bake burner operation is improper air flow to the burner.
The correction is to replace the bake burner with the new modified burner and igniter assembly.
- The part number for the burner & igniter assembly is AP3598752 http://www.appliancepartspros.com/part_details.aspx?part_id=3598752 --------- to get more help please click on this link directly http://www.applianceaid.com/gas.html
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the solution positively .thank you for using fixya
Posted on Jan 03, 2010
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