I can hear the click of the valve when I turn manual on and off. However, it does not shut off automatically. Wires inside appear clean. Worked well last season when it was new. My other signel valve unit still works well.
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Your water control valve is defective and will need to be replaced. Even though you hear the electrical part of the valve turn off the mechanical part of the control valve is stuck open causing water to continue to flow. What is your model number? Kenmore model numbers look like this example=> 312.234567 If you can find your model number I will show you the replacement part number, Thanks Sea Breeze
if it keeps filling and overflowing you have a bad water valve on the back of the fridge.the part number is WR57X10027 and the valve is around 75 dollars.first thing lift the arm or shut off the ice maker so it won't leak anymore,you're missing a few letters off of the model number so when you call your parts store give them the full model number,open the fridge door,look up on the right hand side wall up near the ceiling and give them the model number to make sure you get the correct valve,shut off the water supply to the fridge,then have the new valve next to the old valve when you remove a water line from the old valve just connect it to the new valve,do this until everything is changed out and the new valve is in place,turn on the water supply and you can check the ice maker to make sure it doesn't overflow.you can manually start the ice maker by grabbing the plastic arms of the ice maker and pull them forwards slowly until the arms start to advance on their own,you'll hear the water valve fill the ice maker and then you can watch it fill to see if the water is filling it correctly and i'm sure you'll be fine with the new water valve installed
I am having a similar problem mine will not shut down but what I understand from the service man is the valve should work on Automatic... manual is for a defective valve and you can force heat through by setting it on manual...
Hi, yes for a heat only you will have 2 wires red and white. On the knob, you should have an off, pilot, and on position. It should be in the pilot when it is lite. Once the pilot is on you say you slowly turn it to on and you hear a click and off it goes? Turn the pilot screw back down some, about 1/2 an inch. Did you wire the control wires to the gas valve itself? This sounds like what is happening, the wires from the stat and if it has a pilot generator with a red and white wire that connect to the screws are in the wrong place and shuts it down as soon as you turn the valve to on. It is doing this for safety as it is not wired right. It should have come with a wiring diagram to show how it is wired. For all I know it may have come prewired, is this true? Did you do any wiring at all? Can you describe to me how many wires are there and the markings on the gas valve such as th or tr and so on? It sounds as though the 2 stat wires are on the wrong terminals and will shut down everything. Double check this and it should have a diagram showing you how it should be. Let me know. This should be very easy for us to get going. Sincerely, Shastalaker7 PS, does it have a ground wire that's not connected?
If the flame lifts off the burner and yellows, you are starving for combustion air. You will need to inspect the air intake and associated piping. If the flame does not change but all of a sudden you hear a click, you may have a bad thermopile. A thermopile is a large probe approx 3/8" dia located at the pilot light. It will have either two wires that go back to the gas valve or it may have a screw in terminal. You can test it by unscrewing it from the gas valve while the flame is on and if it acts like it does after the 5 min, replace it.
Sounds like your humidistat is the problem. Try turning it off, if still clicking, disconnect one of the wires at the valve (if accessable). If the valve doesn't close, replace valve. Otherwise replace humidistrat.
The manual suggests disconnecting inputs and outputs and power, letting it sit for an hour, then plugging it back in and turning volume to max to see if it still shuts off. If it does, the problem is with the unit. If it doesn't, the problem is elsewhere.
Judging from some other sites, this is a common problem. If you take it to a dealer, suggest they check the AC input. Before anything else, make sure that there are no stray wires on your speakers connecting the positive and negative clips, which will cause a short and activate the amp protection.
I had the same problem with an Onky502 and replaced it today with an Onkyo606. It worked fine for an hour then started shutting off automatically. I'm following the manual and letting it cool off now for an hour, and meantime I'll check my speakers.