Question about Dishwashers
Error code indicated bottom compartment is flooded. Trying to get the lower front panel off to access the area and two of the mounting screws are right up under bottom of doo, no space to work
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
no thats correct installeation of machine, its meant to be a "hidden" control. simply open the door, choose your options, press start and close door.
Posted on Feb 28, 2008
Happened on my dish washer too. Remove lower rack, remove lower spray arm by removing the center plastic nut, check screws (torx) on outside edge of pump. Tighten these as necessary, mine were loose causing water to spray forward against the tub causing leakage.
Posted on Oct 13, 2009
The most common cause of this is a loose clamp on the pump discharge hose. It could also be a cracked hose, the hose came off (again, loose clamp). Check both ends - where the hose connects to the dishwasher AND where it connects to the sink drain.
Another possible cause is a bad pump seal, although this is less common, and usually open happens when the dishwasher is pretty old.
Posted on Jan 05, 2010
Testimonial: "Very quick and easy to follow instructions. Thanks."
SOURCE: ASKO 1555 dishwasher won't run.
Welcome to FixYa.
Based on your description " The anti flood device motor won\'t stop running but we\'ve removed all the water " It is likely nothing very serious.
The flashing lights are directly related with overfill scenarios for Asko dishwashers of this era...DW95.5, meaning the control is indicating an overfill has been detected. Whether the unit has actually overfilled or not remains to be seen.
In the event it has, the outlet/drain pump motor is automatically turned on via either the pressure switch or a float in the base if sensing an overfill and removing water from inside the dishwasher will do nothing to resolve this error, but you can...
**before proceeding turn the dishwasher power off via the home breaker panel, or unplug it from the wall if that is possible...most are hard wired to the home electrical...safety first**
The first thing to do is remove the toe panel/kick plate and inspect the base for water. If water is present, with the aid of a sponge, towels, or a wet-dry shop vacuum, absorb the water from the base.
If the unit works fine after resetting the power/breaker it can likely be chalked up to a drain back-up or obstruction in the drain hose or pump.
If not, there are a couple of other possibilities that I'd focus on.
**again insure power to the unit is off**
The first is the float and subsequently, float switch. If you've removed the service panel at the bottom, or toe plate, you need to locate the float and it's switch. It will be located directly behind where your main electrical junction is...
Once you've located the float behind the main connection plate, you should see something like this image below,
With the aid of a long screwdriver or if you can reach it, move the float up and down and listen closely for the switch to "click", indicating it is indeed functioning.
Restore power again, and see if this resolves the issue, if not try this next...
The pressure switch too can cause all the lights to flash. It is the component which controls the normal fill level and the overfill detection...pre float activation. The float is primarily the last ditch safety to notify the user in the event of a overflow, back-flow, or leak underneath the unit to service or call for service to the unit.
It too is located under the machine and is mounted to the sump well assembly as shown, the large arrow indicates the switch while the small is the hose.
The issue is possibly just the hose going to the switch is clogged with debris such as dirt, detergent buildup etc and will be remedied by blowing it out.
The best way to do this is to remove this hose at the switch in the location indicated above, be very careful as to not break the hose off with the part of the switch inside, they can be delicate.
I typically work it loose with a tiny screw driver gently working it away from the switch. Once removed, pour a small amount of hot water, white vinegar or "CLR" through the sump from within the tub...or you can try blowing it through with "lung power".
The other end of the hose is located at the back of the sump well and is quite vulnerable to blockages over time due to detergents, dirt, and such.
This is the location...do not break this or you will need to replace the entire sump well...no fun.
Large arrow is pointing back to pressure switch, small indicates connection to sump well, sorry for the poor quality...it's hard to get in there with a camera phone, ha ha !
That's almost the extent of the possible causes of this error. Of course it could be the pressure switch has failed, the float switch has failed or ultimately the control has failed, but not likely.
This attachment below is also a retrofit tip from Asko regarding changes made to the pressure switch on the early DW95 series machines. you can identify if yours is this type by looking for the small white suppressor in the pressure switch...if yours doesn't have it you may want to change it while your at this repair.
Available at "repairclinic.com" for about $45USD.
Hope this helps move you forward, or even better resolves the issue altogether. Let me know of course, I will help you move further if necessary.
Posted on Nov 27, 2010
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The dishwasher drain hose may be clogged. When the dishwashr starts up can you hear the water running into the Sink faucet drain. If not inspect the hose that attaches to the Sink Drain for restrictions. Also in the bottom of the dishwasher you should have a filter. If this filter is clogged you cannot expel water. Clean the filter.
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