Question about Air Tools & Compressors
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
1st check for power at the pressure switch. Take the cover of the switch and make sure you have line voltage at the terminals from the wall outlet.
if no voltage>replace cord or plug end with proper gauge wire.
If voltage, then, while you have the cover off of the switch **Make sure it is not plugged in** and operate the on off switch and visually check the operation of the switch. You should see some flat copper terminals that, when the switch is turned on, kinda rotate and drop onto some other copper terminals. The connection is kinda like points on a old car ignition, little pads on each copper thingie contact each other. I have seen these little pads become pitted and burnt from arcing. Try to clean these with a small file or pick if they are corroded. Get some electrical contact cleaner and clean the switch completely, *it is not only electrical, but is also mechanical*. Switches will intermittantly work, replace the whole pressure switch if there is heavy wear, charring or working intermittantly.
If this is all good, check the wires coming out of the switch for power to the motor, replace if necessary. If this is ok..
You probably have a bad motor. I have not had much success in revitalizing motors, its usually better to just replace it.
Posted on Nov 21, 2008
For what it's worth Compressors are intended to be turned on and forgot (except for the noise). just for grins lets assume you have the stapler and air hose. you need to hook up the air hose to the compressor there usually is one or to either couplers or npt fittings (threaded). attach the hose to the compressor and using a quick coupler (prefered because it allows the gun to swivel) connect the gun to the hose. turn on the compressor and wait for it to build up pressure and *******. at this point you will need to locate the regulator on the compressor. it will be a knob next to one or two dial gages. crank the regulator a quarter turn either direction while watching the gages. It (one of them) moved either up or down . now you know how the regulator works and your almost a contractor. on to the stapler, load it and find a bit of scrap (what your working on would be best.) now shoot a staple into something and see if it goes in far enough or to far. adjust the regulator to compensate. do this until one of three things happens A you find the right staple depth B the compressor kicks on again, wait for it to turn off C you run out of nails, beer or intrest in the project. once you have found the correct pressure for your needs. you may fire at will you don't need to wait for the compressor to cycle while running the stapler just during set up. now your a contractor go have a beer.
just a last tip if you find you don't have the correct couplers home depot, harbor freight or amazon (online) are great sources for parts.
good luck and mind your fingers
Posted on Dec 10, 2008
I WOULD TRY DISCONNECTING THE PIPING FROM THE HEAD DOWN TO THE TANK AND SEE IF ITS BLOWING AIR. COULD THE COMPRESSOR BE RUNNING BACKWARDS - YOU WOULD HAVE HAD TO CHANGE THE WIRING IN THE MOTOR.
VALVES IN THE HEAD COULD ALSO BE BROKEN. YOU CAN REMOVE THE INTAKE AND IT SHOULD **** YOUR FINGERS AT THE OPENING. HOPE THIS HELPS.
Posted on Mar 14, 2009
Usually, a leak at the pressure switch unloader valve is caused by the checkvalve in the tank. The unloader valve at the pressure switch bleeds out the air from discharge tube after compressor reaches set pressure. This only takes a few seconds. If air continues to leak then air is leaking back into the discharge tube past the tank checkvalve. Follow the air discharge line from the compressor to the brass valve at the tank. The brass valve is the checkvalve that holds the pressure in the tank. There are usually two connections at this valve. One is the unloader tube to the pressure switch. Simple test for leaking checkvalve, with pressure in tank unplug or switch off the compressor and remove the small unloader line at the checkvalve(brass valve) and look/listen for leak. If leaking, remove the checkvalve and examine seat/check for debris keeping the valve slightly open. If it cannot be cleaned, order generic replacement from www.grainger.com. It will cost less than the factory checkvalve. Just pay attention to the thread sizes for easy fit. Good Luck on your repair and email if you have questions.
Posted on Mar 25, 2009
Depends on what plan it was made in...
If you have the glass type sight... Only to the max you can see (top of site), then run it for a few mins, let it sit for a few more mins then add more if the level is near the bottom of the sight glass.
If it's the dipstick model that pushed in, there will be an upper and a lower level mark (holes, or checkered section) Keep it between the top and bottom marks.
Finally if it's the older screw-in type, remove the dipstick and wipe it. Set it back in BUT don't screw it in. Keep within the range on the dipstick from that position. Then of course screw it back in/
Posted on May 08, 2009
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