Question about Exercise & Fitness
My treadmill will not decline all of the way it stops at 1.5 and won't go all of the way down. It goes up but won't go all the way down. How can I fix this?
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: proform 360p stuck on incline
I had the exact same problem.
This usually happens if you switch it off at the mains while the incline is adjusting or is somewhere other than lowest. You should always make sure before finishing off, to lower everything.
Now for the solution: If you open up the case it has 5 or 6 black philips (cross head) screws (use your user manual if you don't have your original go to proform and find the support link and download the .PDF if your model is not available get the one before or after in the same model product line (model number is below the power input)).
Make sure you remove the power before opening the cover, obviously.
Anyway, once opened, you should find a sheet of paper wrapped around in some plastic wallet. On that paper it should explain everything. Try not to mess with too much things in the settings, otherwise you might mess it up badly.
Mine is something like: Hold the speed up (+) button and then while holding the button insert the key - that will get you to the service menu (obviously the power has to be connected).
Once in the menu pressing the incline up does a self-calibration (maximum up and maximum down) after that it should be perfect.
Remove the key any time to come out of that mode and resume normal operation.
I may not find this place for any more replies 'cos i only found this site by accident. While looking for info. on my burnt out motor model: PETL 3013.6 .... But i have come across someone selling a faulty one on ebay for like 5 quids... it's picking it up the trouble!
Posted on May 31, 2009
More likely time to replace the belt. Let me provide you with all the information you need. This information is already there on many websites.
BELT LOSES POWER
(Bogs Down or is Sluggish) This condition is when the treadmill operates normally without a person on the belt and then slows down when someone steps on the belt or when the treadmill operates normally for a given period of time with someone on the belt then abruptly begins to slow down.
There are four typical causes for this problem (listed in order of our experience:
1) The walking belt and/or deck are worn. (85% of the time)
2) The walking belt and/or motor belt are too tight- if you have adjusted either recently. (8% of the time)
3) The motor has lost torque and needs brushes or has demagnetized. (5% of the time)
4) The controller is dropping output. (2% of the time)
Walking Belt is Worn:
The only certain way to test for a worn walking belt is to take a DC amp draw (if you have a DC treadmill) or an AC draw (for AC). Trying to look at the belt or a feel test is highly unreliable. Better tests, if you lack a DC ammeter (they are expensive for a good one), are a coast test or an incline test. To test the deck, go back to the Troubleshooting section and download the belt and deck inspections instructions. The coast test is to get on the treadmill as the lowest incline setting and walk on the treadmill at 3 MPH. Pull the safety key and it should take you 2-3 full steps to stop (this is a general rule…some like a few Tunturi models stop on a dime even with a healthy belt but most this tests works well upon). Fewer steps indicate high friction.
The incline test is to put the treadmill at max incline and walk on it at 3 MPH. If the treadmill operates normally at max incline but bogs down at minimum incline, replace the walking belt. Gravity takes over for the drive system eliminating the friction problem. On some heavily worn walking belts, this test will not eliminate the problem.
Walking Belt/Motor Belt too Tight:
If you have adjusted the walking belt or motor belt recently, check for this problem. When the belts start slipping, some people just crank down the belts and on treadmills, tighter is not necessarily better. The
tighter the belts, the more the drive system has to work to keep everything moving. You should be able to lift the walking belt (with the treadmill unplugged) in the center of the treadmill about 3” without straining. Tighter belts should be loosen but make sure you don’t create a dangerous slipping situation by loosening.
The motor belt (with the treadmill unplugged) should be able to be turned by hand to almost a 90 degree angle from its normal operating position. Loosen the belt if too tight. Make sure to test for slipping and if it does with the proper tension, replace the motor belt.
Needs Brushes / Demagnetized Motor:
Typically when we find a motor that has lost torque; it needs a new set of motor brushes. Typically we can make brushes for almost any motor if we don’t already stock them. Motor demagnetization is not that common but it does happen and it is normally easy to diagnose. If you have confirmed the belt and/or deck is not worn and the belts aren’t too tight, you can test for a motor torque problem. DO NOT USE YOUR HAND OR ANY OTHER BODY PART TO IMPEDE THE MOTOR…YOU WILL LIKELY LOSE YOUR BODY PART IN THE PROCESS IF THE MOTOR IS GOOD. The step to test for the motor is to use a foreign object preferably on a long shaft. First determine the direction of the motor spin (most have directional movement printed on the motor tag), then apply pressure with an object with downward pressure on the flywheel in the direction the flywheel is turning (do not attempt to put force against the rotating direction of the flywheel as you can easily injure yourself). If you can slow the motor, typically you need brush replacement.
To test for demagnetization, the motor must be disassembled. Once you have the motor retaining bolts removed, remove the motor core by sliding it out of the end of the housing. If the magnets pull the core against the housing and it is difficult to remove, the magnets are good. If the magnets do not attract the core, the motor has to be replaced.
This is the most uncommon of the causes. Typically replacing a controller in this situation will not solve the underlying problem and then you will end up replacing a belt as well as a control. Normally if a control is dropping output, it will do it with a person on the belt or not. Tests of DC output dropping is normal in many controls since they have a current limiter which will automatically drop output to prevent burning up the board. This is best diagnosed by eliminating the other possible problems first. If you are left with the control as the cause, replace the control.
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Posted on Oct 10, 2009
Most likely a bad drive belt. Take the cover off the motor area. If you see black dust near the left side of the motor, replace the drive belt.
Posted on Nov 01, 2009
i just called the manufacturer on this and found out i have a faulty control panel, but these are the steps they told me to go through to reset. If it works, then you are good, if not, you may also have a control panel issue.
1. plug in and turn on treadmill, keep red key out
2. press and hold the stop button and speed up button at the same time and hold them while you insert the red key
3. after red key is inserted, let go of both buttons
**CAUTION - be sure to stand on side bars of treadmill, clear of the belt for this next part bc it will go VERY FAST***
4. press stop button once
5. press speed up button until it reads 85 (see what i mean?!)
6. press stop button once
7. press incline down or up one time and it should get back into normal mode. mine just started a series of flashing lights and "8"s in all the "windows" so my panel needs to be replaced. here is the number i called - 1-877-993-7999. Good Luck!
Posted on Jan 06, 2010
This condition is when the treadmill goes to full speed as soon as you power up the treadmill. Typically when this occurs, it is an indication of a short circuit in the motor controller.
Posted on Jun 29, 2010
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