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Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Diagram for aosmith motor b381 is here: http://www.electricmotorwarehouse.com/IMAGES/B381_connection.htm
However, I believe that this motor will be more efficient at 230v depending on load conditions. At 115v this motor will draw more amps and tend to run hot, but situation rules. Enjoy
Posted on Dec 14, 2008
The real relevant info is 1/2 hp, 1050 rpm, 115 vac, 1/2 inch shaft. Bring that info to any HVAC supply, any appliance parts, Graingers etc. and they should be able to match it up. I just went to the Graingers site and you can order one for $87.50 plus shipping. lease give me a good rating for getting this info for you. Thanks.
Posted on Jan 30, 2009
SOURCE: Need to hook-up pond
We need to know what wires you have as far as connections to the motor AND the switch. I.e. Red white black green and ______?
Is the switch resistive or just a 2 position (high/ low) 15 Amp switch?
We also need to know how the the terminals on the motor board are labeled. i.e T1, L1, T2, L2. T3, T4 etc and ground. L1 Black L2 White for high speed Green for gorund. The other 2 colors will be for the slower speed winding.
Experimenting with electricity can be costly and VERY dangerous. I would do continutiy checks on the motor windings across L1 and L2 or T1 and T2 and the same for the 2nd winding terminals. Then do the same continuity check from the power wires through the switch and verify the winding resistance across the 2 power leads in BOTH switch positions BEFORE applying power.
Most reputable pump manufacturing companies have the winding terminals on the label or included with the pump with a basic wiring diagram.
FYI you can... use a gate valve for controlling output flow from the pump and run the pump at one speed as an alternative.
I am just being honest here.. without either a wiring diagram of your pump and switch assy it is difficult to pass "safe and sound" advice to you.
Thanks for using FixYa.
Posted on Apr 07, 2010
You will need to pull the front of the pump off then unscrew the impeller. The impeller will be set on the shaft and will take some force to break free. Hold ing the back of the shaft and using water pump pliers on the face of the impeller will usually work but sometimes I will wedge a screwdriver in the fin of the impeller and hit it sharply (not hard) with a hammer to break it free. Then the housing will just pull free of the motor. When replaceing, the impeller just goes on hand tight. Hope this helps and good luck.
Posted on Apr 16, 2010
Unless you can find an HVAC shop with a NOS motor for this unit you will not find a drop in replacement. Even if you do get lucky and find a NOS motor be prepared to pay nearly as much for it as you would a whole new evap cooler.
That said, there are motors out there that will work, but you're going to have to make them fit with custom mounts.
It's still a little spendy, especially if you want two speeds like the original motor had, but you can get out for $80 or less if you're willing to settle for one speed (on/off).
boatandrvaccessories.com has a "Packard 40066" compressor motor for $69 plus $13 shipping. It may work but has only one speed.
Basically what you're looking for is a "48 frame", 1/8 hp, direct drive, 110-120v, 1075rpm, 1/2" shaft diameter and around 3" in length (to give you flexability when mounting), "totally enclosed" or "open drip-proof" housing (NOT "open"). Rotation can be either CW or CCW as you can mount the motor on either side of the housing and some motors are reversable. If you've got the skill to custom make some mounts then you can probably fudge some of these specs. The ones you can't change are the 1/2" shaft and the RPM. Do not exceed 1075rpm. The blower assembly simply can't be made to go much faster in that housing and if you try you will overheat the motor and burn it out very quickly (trust me on this one!). Most of the cheap motors I've found are 208-230v and I just don't see the point in having a small 220v PORTABLE evap cooler, that's just dumb.
After a LOT of online research I've found the following motors that would be a suitable replacement, with all the above mentioned specifications. I'm sure there are more, but cross referencing this information for someone not in the business is tricky and time consuming.
AdobeAir 1/8 HP 115V Motor for Adobe MMB10A RF031095 $116.66
Emerson 4856 (k055srj4796722b) (www.emersonmotors.com)
A.O. Smith 136A (UH1036NB) (www.aosmithmotors.com)
Magnetek 136 (now owned by A.O. Smith - www.aosmithmotors.com)
Fasco D733 or D261 (fasco.com)
Marathon X924 (www.marathonelectric.com)
AdobeAir RK232A check acehardwaresuperstore.com
Grainger.com is a good resource but they are expensive.
The motors listed are suitable replacements, but have only one speed, "ON" or "High".
Packard 40066 - 115v 1075rpm $69 - SINGLE SPEED
A.O. Smith 321P177
A.O. Smith 323P077
A.O. Smith 323P487
A.O. Smith 323P490
A.O. Smith 323P677
A.O. Smith U6521
A.O. Smith UH1016
A.O. Smith UH1026NB
A.O. Smith UH9034
A.O. Smith US1016
A.O. Smith US1016NB
A.O. Smith ORZ1026
R.E. Michael 1E521
Good reading for selecting a replacement motor:
I suppose that if you found a smoking deal on eBay for an "Open" type motor you could try it, but I doubt it would last long and make damn sure that ****** is grounded well.
Posted on Sep 06, 2010
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