Question about Kitchen Ranges
When one of the big burners gets turned on it only works on high. The burner was replaced and that is when it started. The burner works right when when installed in the other spot.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Your problem is not the igniter itself, but the burner switch that controls the igniter. All the igniters get their power from one spark module that is mounted somewhere in back of the oven. That's why you are able to get all the igniters to spark with only one burner control turned on. This is normal. That is also why you are able to light the burner in question buy turning on another burner. The spark is being provided by a switch that is working. To answer your question: the igniter is removable, but I don't think it's necessary. Cleaning them generally doesn't make them work better. I would check the wiring from the spark module to the burner switch and/or replace the switch. I hope this helps.
Posted on Jul 18, 2007
SOURCE: Gemini Range Dual Burner
Unfortunately, you cannot repair one element of a dual burner. It all comes as one unit. When one portion of a dual or triple element goes bad, you must replace the whole element. I believe the part number is 1032746 and runs about $70. You will have to lift the glass top to access the burner elements. If you decide to pursue this on your own follow these steps: 1. Unplug range and/or turn off main breaker. 2. Open oven door to access screws under front edge of cooktop. Remove two screws and the top should tilt up. 3. The top will not stay up on it's own, so you will need some assistance holding it up. Some ranges have a couple of disconnect plugs that you can unplug, so you remove the entire top and lay it somewhere to work on. If this is the case with yours (as I suspect it is), lay some soft towels down on the kitchen table or counter top and lay the cooktop upside down. This will make it much easier to work on. 4. Remove affected element by disconnecting the wires first. You may want to write down how they came off, so you can be sure to reconnect them in the right order. 5. Remove mounting brackets holding element in place. Pay particular attention to the numbering scheme on the bottom of the element and where the brackets are mounted. The new element usually doesn't come with new brackets which means you have to take the brackets off the old element and put them on the new element. Make sure you install them in the same numbered holes as they were located before. 6. Reconnect wires and reinstall cooktop, making sure you reconnect the disconnect plugs if equipped. Now, be careful when working on the cooktop while it is upside down. Make sure you don't apply too much pressure on the glass or you could crack it. Also, use extreme care NOT to touch the element surface as the oils from you hands can cause hot spots and effectively ruin it. The bake light material in which the element is mounted is also very fragile. DO NOT put to much pressure on it or it may crack and break. Once you get the cooktop reinstalled and power reapplied, op test it to make sure BOTH elements are working. It is normal to see a little bit of sparking at first with new elements and/or an odor. Test the entire range of the element and make sure it regulates like it should. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Aug 04, 2007
WHEN THE SURFACE SWITCHES ARE IN A ROW ON THE CONSOLE, THEY ARE USUALLY WIRED IN PARALLEL FOR THE INPUT VOLTAGES(RED AND BLACK WIRES ATTACHED TO EACH OTHER). IF THERE IS A BURN OUT OF ONE OF THE WIRES, IT WILL AFFECT THE OTHER SWITCH INPUTS DOWN THE LINE.
TAKE OFF THE BACK PANEL OF THE CONSOLE AFTER UNPLUGGING IT AND CHECK FOR VISIBLE SIGNS OF WIRES BURNT. REPAIR OR REPLACE IF NEEDED. SOMETIMES, THEY WILL DAMAGE THE TERMINAL OF THE SWITCH THEY ARE ATTACHED TO. IF THIS IS THE CASE, THE SWITCH WILL ALSO HAVE TO BE REPLACED.
Posted on Apr 04, 2008
Turning any knob starts the spark via a switch behind each which should disengage when the (any) knob is turn further.
One of your switches is stuck.
I think you should be able to remove the range-top for access and find the offending switch.
It is probably gummy from a spill and is no longer in solid contact with the cam that operates it.
A solvent/lubricant such as WD-40 sprayed on the plunger of the switch once you can see it and operating the knob back and forth should free it up.
It might be wise to turn off the gas supply while tinkering with the range - blow your house away and the range won't matter. :-(
Posted on Jun 19, 2008
Does yours have the (small large burner switch)? If so, try switching it back and forth. It could be defective or your small burner element is bad.
Posted on Mar 14, 2009
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