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GE gss25wgph bb

Freezer cold, refrigerator warm... have changed thermistors, defrost thermostat and main control panel, also check defrost heater and damper checked ok. Everything else seems to be working fine... system work fine for a few days and then go back to same cold/warm issue.... what else should I check

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6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 49 Answers

SOURCE: Freezer is cold, main food compartment is warm

the evap fan probably stopped working because of the shorted defrost thermostat. if you remove the freezer drawer you will probably see frost build-up on the back wall. what you need to do is remove the back wall and manually defrost the coil with a hair dryer. have some towels handy. once the ice is melted you will need to replace the thermostat or this will happen again. you should buy a new thermostat before the repair so you know what you're looking for. hope this helps

Posted on Aug 20, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: GE refrigerator won't keep cool

check the voltage going into you fan w/ the old main board and also w/ the new board. You might be getting a low voltage w/ your new board or the fan you replaced is for a diferent voltage. Have you tried to put the old fan back w/ the new board??

Posted on Jan 18, 2010

  • 58 Answers

SOURCE: My GE Refrigerator Model No.

yes any one of these

Posted on Sep 26, 2010

  • 2468 Answers

SOURCE: i have a GE Adora

it sounds as though you have had a fan short out,be it an evaporator fan inside the freezer or refrigerator or the condenser fan down in the rear area,if one of these shorts out they will definately ruin this control board,before you replace the control find out which fan it is or it will ruin the new card immediately,the board is G.E. # WR55X10942 it is a new improved version of any other board now

Posted on Nov 30, 2010

  • 5370 Answers

SOURCE: have kenmore 253.54622402 side by side--from the

" waited 1 hour freezer 20 degrees // cold food side 45 degrees and no air flowing from damper " As per this it indicates that the ventilations are getting blocked after few hours.First the air was flowing from damper but after one hour it stopped flowing air from damper.Check the damper if there is too much water collected in the damper then press the damper and remove the water collected in it.------------ The working procedure of this Kenmore side by side refrigerator is as follows: --- The compressor starts then it cools the freezer section. When the freezer reaches its cooling level the defrost cycle starts functioning. In this cycle the fan in the freezer section starts running and the cool air in the freezer section is passed to the fridge section and the fresh food section gets cold. The air from freezer to fridge passes from the section, in that section the damper is located. Now this problem which you mentioned. In this problem the freezer thaws, this happens if the thermostat is not functioning or the heater is not heating. Then the ice starts getting collected on the evaporator coil. The evaporator coil is at the internal section of freezer. If too much ice gets collected then this ice blocks the fan in the freezer section from functioning and this blocks the damper section with ice getting collected there. This all procedure is controlled by the main defrost board of the unit. Now if the damper is not got blocked with too much water or if the ice is not got collected on the damper area then check the evaporator coils. If there is too much ice got collected on the coils, then takes a hair dryer and melt the collected ice. Then see if the problem returns again. But if there is little bit ice collected on the coils and fan is running properly then it's not a problem. In that case main board is faulty and it has to be replaced. The main defrost board is working but its not controlling the functions as required so the freezer thaws after few hours.

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You can get required parts from sears part direct online site or from repairclinic.com site.

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To test defrost thermostat you can test this way:---

The defrost thermostat is difficult to test since many refrigerators use different fixed temperature settings and unless you have a very accurate temperature test device the test will not provide proper results. Now you can take the defrost thermostat out of the unit and place the element only in a glass of ice water. When the element is cold it should have continunity between the two wires.------ The meter should not show a reading if the thermostat is turned off. If a reading appears, replace the thermostat.

When the thermostat is turned on, the meter should indicate "0" ohm or .3 or .2 on a digital readout. If it does not appear as "0" ohm or .3 or .2, replace thermostat.Turn the thermostat on and place each probe on either side of the thermostat so meter reads "0" ohm or .2 ohm digital. Put water and some ice in the cup. Temperature should be 32 degrees. If, after four minutes, the meter does not reflect infinite or .0000 on the digital meter open circuit, replace the thermostat.----If thermostat checked out ok then check defrost heater connection.The defrost heater is connected to the side of evaporator coil in the freezer section.If this defrost heater is faulty then it will not melt the ice getting collected on the evaporator coil and due to that defrost system will not be able to function as required.Remove the wire for one side of the heating element from the wiring and measure it for continuity, usually around 20 ohms or so.-----------

Now to see where defrost heater is located.Please click on this link below and see part number 14 on the diagram.And part number 15 is evaporator coil.And part number 21 is thermostat.

http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/partsdirect/showSubComp.pd?imageUrl=http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_png/PLDM/R0405135-00006.png

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This will help. Thanks. Helpmech.

Posted on Jan 20, 2011

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Have a ge model # GTH21KBXAWW. The freezer works fine. The bottom half does not keep cold.


Freezer is cold but refrigerator is warm
  1. Evaporator coils are frosted over
If your issue is that the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is not as cold as it should be, the first step is to check the defrost system for problems. A key indicator in determining if perhaps you have a refrigeration defrost problem is visible frost on the evaporator coils. If your unit has frost you will need to check your defrost heater assembly, the defrost control, and the evaporator fan motor for a malfunction. Replace any erroneous parts as necessary.
  1. Damper
If your issue is that the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is not as cold as it should be, the damper door could be broken or jammed. The damper is a door that opens and closes to allow cool air to flow from the freezer into the refrigerator unit, and if it fails to operate correctly, not enough cold air will enter the refrigerator to keep it cold. The damper can be replaced if it is no longer operating properly.
  1. Thermistor
If your issue is that the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is not as cold as it should be, the thermistor connected to the control board might be defective. The thermistor is a sensor that examines the temperature inside the unit. If the part is defective, the refrigerator could not cool properly.
  1. Temperature control board
If your issue is that the freezer is cold but the refrigerator is not as cold as it should be, the temperature control board could be at fault. The temperature control board distributes voltage to the fan motors and compressor to keep them functioning. This board is very often misdiagnosed as the culpable cause and it is recommended to proceed with the troubleshooting process of elimination prior to replacing this part.
  1. Defrost thermostat
Another issue that can cause your freezer to be cold while the refrigerator is not as cold as it should be is the defrost thermostat. In order for the defrost heater to activate to melt away any excessive frosting on the evaporator coils, the defrost thermostat must sense that the temperature is cold enough to activate the defrost heater. Without this continuous cycle, the frost will excessively build up on the coils and prevent proper air flow inside the unit. The defrost thermostat can be checked for continuity with an ohm meter; if it's not present, the thermostat will need to be replaced.
  1. Main control board
A possible cause for a freezer that's cold but refrigerator that's not as cold as it should be is the main control board. The main control board acts as a "brain" for the unit, controlling the defrost cycle, compressor, and run time. However, it is an uncommon cause for this issue. This board is very often misdiagnosed as the culpable cause and it is recommended to proceed with the troubleshooting process of elimination prior to replacing this part.

Feb 25, 2015 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

What else can I check - my fresh food side of fridge is still too warm, freezer fine.


GE refrigerators use a board to control cooling and defrost functions. The fresh food compartment also utilizes a motorized damper, and some models even have a fresh food fan. Air enters the fresh food compartment at the top left corner, and the return air is also in the left wall down near the crispers. Both paths must be clear.

Jul 21, 2014 | GE Refrigerators

1 Answer

The freezer is running and cold, the refrigerator seems to be getting warmer like as if the cold isn't transferring. Is there a fan suppose to be running or what?


It is quite common for a refrigerator to begin the first signs of a defrost problems once he fresh Food section begins to warm. Auto Dampers are an additional component to check while searching for the true reason for Fresh Food compartment warming. First look inside the freezer compartment and and see if there is a layer of frost building on the rear wall. If yes you will need to manually defrost unless you have anothr place to store the freezer goods. Unplug refrigerator and then remove the rear panel of freezer to get a good look at the snow covering your evaporator coils. Defrost with a hair drier. Now we need to look for the cause Auto Damper, Click here for the photo location of these parts=> MSD2756GEW Controls Section the adaptive defrost control is most likely the problem and is listed in the photo as location 13 and the auto damper

61005971 Damper Control Assembly

61005988 Adaptive Defrost Assembly
sea_breeze_232.jpg sea_breeze_233.jpg

The Auto Damper model refrigerator has two controls and both have capillary sensing.

The Auto Damper controls the fresh food temperature and the Freezer Temperature
Control guides the freezer temperature. The fresh food compartment temperature is maintained by a damper assembly located at the back of the temperature control housing. Changes in air temperature cause the damper door to open and close. A control rod and gear connect the fresh
food control knob to the damper control.

Turning the fresh food control knob to the coldest position increases the flow of freezer air into the fresh food section. The freezer compartment temperature control warms at a faster rate and cools at a slower rate, increasing the compressor run time necessary to maintain a satisfied freezer temperature control.

Click Here=> Here is how to test a Maytag MSD2756GEW Auto Damper

There is always other possiilities but I see two other things that may cause this and that is the defrost heater with defrost Thermostat=> 61006199 Defrost Heater Assembly

I know this was long and possibly confusing but please ask if you should have questions or one on one assistance, Thanks, Sea Breeze

Sep 14, 2011 | Maytag MSD2756G Side by Side Refrigerator

2 Answers

My ge profile regrigerator is not cold in the refrigerator section, ice breezes on the back wall of the freezer and it will make ice at times. I think it is a defrost issue as I will shut off for a while...


Pull the refrig out and remove the 8 " x 10 " panel . Behind this panel , is the main control board . Unplug the refrig . Remove the BLUE plug from the board , with 3 larger wires going to it . Looking at the blue plug , the sequence will be wire1,wire2,space,wire3 . Get a short piece of insulated wire , and strip about 1/4 inch from each end . Insert 1 end into wire2 , and the other into wire3 . Plug the refrig back in . After about 3 min , look in the freezer , at the bottom , behind the crisper , look for a red glow . If no red glow , unplug the refrig , and reassemble the plug and cover . This no glow , indicates a shorted defrost heater WR51X10101 . It is also advisable to replace the defrost thermostat ( pt. number WR50X10068 ) when replacing the heater . To access these parts , you will have to remove the inside rear wall of the freezer . The heater , is at the bottom of the coils , held on with 2 screws , and the thermostat , is the 1 " cylinder , with a blue and pink wire going to it , clipped on the top left of the coils .
If you do get a red glow , then the # 4 thermistor is bad . This tells the main control board , the temp of the coils , if they need defrosted , when they are thru defrosting . This thermistor is the 1 " long , torpedo looking piece , clipped on the top left of the coils , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . It would be advisable to also replace the # 5 thermistor , located at the bottom of the freezer , slightly in front of the drain , also with 2 white wires going to it , slid into a housing . This thermistor , is the freezer thermistor , which tells the control board , the freezer temp and when to cycle off due to selected temperature .

Jul 18, 2010 | GE GSS20IEPWW / GSS20IEPCC Side by Side...

2 Answers

GE side-by-side not saying cold


Pull the refrig out and remove the 8 " x 10 " panel . Behind this panel , is the main control board . Unplug the refrig . Remove the BLUE plug from the board , with 3 larger wires going to it . Looking at the blue plug , the sequence will be wire1,wire2,space,wire3 . Get a short piece of insulated wire , and strip about 1/4 inch from each end . Insert 1 end into wire2 , and the other into wire3 . Plug the refrig back in . After about 3 min , look in the freezer , at the bottom , behind the crisper , look for a red glow . If no red glow , unplug the refrig , and reassemble the plug and cover . This no glow , indicates a shorted defrost heater WR51X10101 . It is also advisable to replace the defrost thermostat ( pt. number WR50X10068 ) when replacing the heater . To access these parts , you will have to remove the inside rear wall of the freezer . The heater , is at the bottom of the coils , held on with 2 screws , and the thermostat , is the 1 " cylinder , with a blue and pink wire going to it , clipped on the top left of the coils .
If you do get a red glow , then the # 4 thermistor is bad . This tells the main control board , the temp of the coils , if they need defrosted , when they are thru defrosting . This thermistor is the 1 " long , torpedo looking piece , clipped on the top left of the coils , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . It would be advisable to also replace the # 5 thermistor , located at the bottom of the freezer , slightly in front of the drain , also with 2 white wires going to it , slid into a housing . This thermistor , is the freezer thermistor , which tells the control board , the freezer temp and when to cycle off due to temp setting .

May 26, 2010 | GE GSS22JF Side by Side Refrigerator

2 Answers

REFRIDGERATOR SIDE DONT KEEP COLD, BUT THE FREEZER DOES? WHY?


This symptom can be caused by many different failures, defrost system failure,( defrost heater,timer,thermostat), something blocking air transfer path to the fresh food section such as: ice build up, damper door not operating, main thermostat, check all these or have tech come in and check.
Good luck !

Mar 17, 2010 | Kenmore 55612 / 55614 / 5561 / 655619 Side...

1 Answer

Freezer cold, refrigerator wont get cold what can be the cause of this


lack of air flow from freezer to the refrigerator, since you have a side by side, this narrows it down a little. it could be not automatically defrosting, visual sign is thick frost on back wall of freezer, due to either a bad: main control board; defrost heater; evaporator thermistor; or safety bimetal thermostat. could also be a bad evaporator fan motor, due to a bad motor; bad main control board, or both. air damper is stuck closed, preventing air from entering fresh food side. or ice build up due to an improper door seal or other warm air source.

Mar 17, 2010 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

1 Answer

Freezer working but refrigerator is not cooling


if freezer is close to zero, top to bottom, and fridge is warm(ing), then you likely have a defrost problem, you will notice an abundance of snow/frost on back wall of freezer. it could either be your heater, thermistor, defrost safety thermostat, or your defrost control/main cpu, depending on model. if either or both sides are warm at the top, and cold at bottom, then your freezer fan is out. again depending on your model, it may just be the fan, or a combination fan/main cpu board hope this helps

Feb 15, 2010 | GE Profile PSW26P Stainless Steel Side by...

1 Answer

Refrigerator and freezer are cold but not cold enough


Make sure the damper is still open and check for another return damper at the bottom. Normal 0 MicrosoftInternetExplorer4 /* Style Definitions */ table.MsoNormalTable {mso-style-name:"Table Normal"; mso-tstyle-rowband-size:0; mso-tstyle-colband-size:0; mso-style-noshow:yes; mso-style-parent:""; mso-padding-alt:0in 5.4pt 0in 5.4pt; mso-para-margin:0in; mso-para-margin-bottom:.0001pt; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:10.0pt; font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman";} DEFROST PROBLEM
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10 hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.

If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.

If the defrost thermostat is bad, it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass(disconnect the two wires plugged into it and twist them together) the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.

The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.

If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.

If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others. You can post your model number into one of several appliance parts sites on the internet and search for defrost components to find your parts.

Jan 20, 2010 | GE GSS25JEMWW Side by Side

2 Answers

My refrigerator the evaporator keep freezing , i had clean out the ice ,but after 2 , 3 week it freezing again , can please let me know . my refrigerator model-gsh25jstass


Pull the refrig out and remove the 8 " x 10 " panel . Behind this panel , is the main control board ( you already know , since you changed it ) . Unplug the refrig . Remove the BLUE plug from the board , with 3 larger wires going to it . Looking at the blue plug , the sequence will be wire1,wire2,space,wire3 . Get a short piece of insulated wire , and strip about 1/4 inch from each end . Insert 1 end into wire2 , and the other into wire3 . Plug the refrig back in . After about 3 min , look in the freezer , at the bottom , behind the crisper , look for a red glow . If no red glow , unplug the refrig , and reassemble the plug and cover . This no glow , indicates a shorted defrost heater ( pt. number WR51X10055 ) . It is also advisable to replace the defrost thermostat ( pt. number WR50X10068 ) when replacing the heater . To access these parts , you will have to remove the inside rear wall of the freezer . The heater , is at the bottom of the coils , held on with 2 screws , and the thermostat , is the 1 " cylinder , with a blue and pink wire going to it , clipped on the top left of the coils .
If you do get a red glow , then the # 4 thermistor is bad . This tells the main control board , the temp of the coils , if they need defrosted , when they are thru defrosting . This thermistor is the 1 " long , torpedo looking piece , clipped on the top left of the coils , with 2 white wires going to it . Part number WR55X10025 . It would be advisable to also replace the # 5 thermistor , located at the bottom of the freezer , slightly in front of the drain , also with 2 white wires going to it , slid into a housing . This thermistor , is the freezer thermistor , which tells the control board , the freezer temp , when to cycle off , associated with the fan speed also .

Dec 04, 2009 | GE (PSS26MSRSS) Side by Side Refrigerator

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