The pan at the bottom of the water heater is leaking through the attached valve. Do I need to call the plumber immediately or is this normal? The water heater is still producing hot water.

This issue may be caused by several factors, including a malfunctioning or improperly sized water heater, clogged pipes, or a malfunctioning thermostatic mixing valve. Here are some steps you can take to troubleshoot the issue:

1. Check the size of your water heater: If your water heater is too small for your home's needs, it may not be able to supply enough hot water to all areas of your home. Consider upgrading to a larger water heater.
2. Check for clogged pipes: If your hot water pipes are clogged with mineral buildup or debris, water flow may be restricted, causing reduced hot water supply. Have a plumber inspect your pipes and clean them if necessary.
3. Check the thermostatic mixing valve: If your home is equipped with a thermostatic mixing valve, it may be malfunctioning and causing the issue. Have a plumber inspect and replace the valve if necessary.
4. Check for leaks: If there are any leaks in your hot water pipes, the water pressure may be reduced, causing reduced hot water supply. Have a plumber inspect your pipes and repair any leaks.
5. Adjust the temperature settings: Make sure the temperature settings on your water heater are properly set. If the temperature is set too low, you may not be getting enough hot water.

If these steps do not resolve the issue, it is recommended to contact a licensed plumber to inspect and repair your hot water system.

Good tight joints and PTFE tape.

where does it seem to be leaking from?

I recommend safety changes to prevent ruptured water heater and assorted leaks.
135 degree hot water.
Maybe replace TP valve if it is dripping.
Drip pan under water heater with 3/4" drain line to outside.
Expansion tank on incoming cold water line to absorb pressure build-up, and prolong life of tank and plumbing.

Here's why:

1) Yes you can have scalding hot water.

2) I recommend 135 degrees since that will burn the evil right out of ya. And generally kill clothes washing bacteria.
http://waterheatertimer.org/How-to-adjust-water-heater-temperature.html

3) 150 is dangerous and can seriously burn skin in 1.5 seconds. Not safe around children and elderly.

4) Temperature settings on electric water heater are approximate, since thermostats are calibrated approximately, and read temperature through tank wall.

5) Also if you want to increase amount of hot water for high-consumption household, then setting tank temperature upward is one solution since more cold water is mixed with hot, so amount of hot inside tank goes further.

6) High temperature can cause TP valve to release water.
TP valve is pressure-temperature safety valve. Do NOT cap off.
Rating should be 125 psi and 180 degrees ... but all things water heater are approximate, and TP valves need replacement now and then.
It is not recommended by water heater manufactures to use 150 psi TP valve when water heater came with 125 psi. Rating shows in small print on end of TP. New TP valves sold at local hardware. Let tank cool before installing new one.

7) Higher temperature and high pressure can rupture tank.
Pressure over 80 psi shortens life of water heaters and plumbing fixtures. Put BTG100 pressure gauge on water heater drain valve to check pressure.

8) You need a drip pan with 3/4" drain line to outdoors, or to drain vent line, to prevent flood caused by ruptured water heater.
Turn water heater off when going on vacation.
Inspect water heater each 6 months.
Drip pan available at local home center or hardware:
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html#drip

9) Heated water expands and puts pressure on tank and pipes.
Water does not compress... so when water gets hotter it expands against tank wall and against pipes.
Especially in closed system (check valve present) when system is without expansion tank.
Expansion tank is installed on incoming cold water line.
http://waterheatertimer.org/9-ways-to-save-with-water-heater.html#expansion

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/gene_9f0ef4df2f9897e7

Very simple - call a Plumber. He will fix your plumbing problem, and any foreseen potential problems related to your water leak. He may also suggest replacing your 6 year old water heater. Of course ..... for a professional cost.
However, depending on your time, skills, proper tools, patience and luck, it's easy enough to perform yourself:
1. Switch off the water heater Breakers (220v) in your service panel.
2. Turn off the water supply to the water heater.
3. Attach a water hose to the drain faucet. ( a good time to flush sediment -calcium deposits)
4. Open a hot water faucet to vent (above the level of the water heater drain - kitchen sink)
5. Remove the suspected leak components. (a union connection is a good place to start)
6. Install New pipes -3 wrap all male threaded ends with teflon Tap. Tighten securely - using 2 wrenches.
NOTE: Before refilling - you can turn on the water heater supply valve for a few minutes, to flush out any lingering calcium debris.
7. Shut off drain valve - remove hose. Shut off venting hot water faucet.
8. Turn on water supply valve to fill water heater.
9. Open a hot water faucet to relieve air pressure while filling - preferably the bath tub faucet, it doesn't have a screen that might clog.
10. When water flows without air - shut off tub faucet.
11. Look for leaks.
12. Switch the water heater Breakers on.
Note: 50 gallons should take an hour or more to heat up. Turn on a hot water valve momentarily within this heat up time to relieve thermal expansion. ( the PT valve on your water heater will perform this task if pressures/temperature exceed new water heater tolerances - it's just a precaution to introduce these fluctuating pressures on your fragile 6 year old unit)

These are just basic instructions - assuming you fill in the common sense and work safe steps.
Good Luck - The Skill will only come after trying.

Hello tiletnickm, first, the plumber's tape and bottle cap is very clever! GREAT JOB!
Many of those valves do have a stem that can be replaced, however, finding the right parts at the big box stores can prove challenging. If you have a local plumbing supply store they seldom have the part in stock, but can usually order the right part for you.

Something you may consider if you haven't drained your water heater in the past year, ( most manufactureres recommend draining them atleast once a year to prevent buildup and extend the life of the water heater ), it could be much less time consuming to drain the tank and then change the valve.
I hope this is helpful my friend!

Make sure that the water is not coming from the drain valve, the relief valve or some top fitting and running down the insulation inside the visible outer skin of the heater.
If it is truly a bottom leak, which is common when the heater fails, if the leak is getting on the flame or pilot, you should shut it off. If the water creates an unacceptable situation, for example, leaking on a finished floor, shut the water off.
If the water is leaking slowly and the flame is not being wet down, you can call a plumber and use the tank on an emergency basis.

you will need to explain more of where the leak is on the bottom. You have two plastic valves on the bottom and if the clips are not on exactly it will leak and if the person who replaced valves did not use vasoline when they put it back together the could have cut the gasket ring on the inside putting in back together and again it will leak. You have to determine where the leak is coming from to begin with using a flash light to get the exact location. .

If your water tank is leaking, is it dripping from above or actually leaking thru the bottom?. Can you find the source? Feel around and try to find wet spots above and around it. If it's not leaking from the water pipes or T&P valve, it's your tank leaking. You'd be wise to have it checked out in the morning, before it gets worse. Hopefully your catch pan has a pipe attached to divert water to the outside or to a sump pump or floor drain. Water heaters do sweat, but you can tell the difference if it continues to leak for several hours.

What is the leaking pvc pipe connected to? The T & P valve on the side (or top) of the tank? Or is it an incoming cold or outgoing hot water line? If you have just lit the water heater, the T & P valve may drip, but only for a little while and it will stop. The T & P (temperature and pressure relief) valve may be bad and need replaced. Turn off the incoming cold water valve and turn the gas valve to off position. Then drain the water heater using the T & P valve, it will stop draining when the water level is just below it. Remove the T&P valve and replace with new one. Use thread sealing tape on threads. Or call a plumber if not sure.