Question about Washing Machines
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Roper washer does not drain
Alicia7q : Faulty water pump or restriction in drain line between tub and outlet hose.
arlenekc,: That metal thing is part of the motor. What you have is a leaking water pump.
badwasher,: Check the lid switch. This machine will not spin or drain if the switch is faulty.
Posted on Jan 12, 2008
If the washer fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain, this is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price.
If you have questions, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Aug 04, 2009
Yes, a broken lid switch can cause the washer not to drain. The pumps on these washers are strictly mechanical. They have no electrical connections and only have one moving part - the impeller. If the pump were clogged, it would not drain, but if the drain line is clear, the problem is the lid switch. Since you mentioned your switch was broken, I would begin there. Congrats. You've pretty much already diagnosed your problem.
The most common cause of the problem you are experiencing is a lid switch malfunction. Symptoms may include, filling and stopping on the intial fill cycle, a wash tub that will not drain, and stopping right after the wash cycle and not advancing to rinse or spin cycles.
The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
On some models, the lid switch is located under the top casing by one of the lid hinges. You will know if you if you have this type of switch, because It does not have a lid strike and the small hole on the right hand side of the wash tub will not be present. This switch is actuated (toggled) by a rod on the lid hinge. With this type of switch, if you locate it and it can be toggled by hand, you may only need to adjust the actuator by bending it slightly.
NOTE: You do not have to drain or bail the water from the washer tub to perform this repair. Once a defective lid switch is replaced, the washer should drain normally.
A replacement lid switch (if required) can be purchased at any of the following web sites:
The average price is about $20 - $30 if you perform the repair yourself. Prices differ between sites so shop and compare.
If you have questions, or need additional assistance, please post back with your MODEL NUMBER and let me know. The lid switch is a very simple repair that you can easily perform without the assistance of a repairman.
If this advice does not help you enough, repairclinic.com has a Repair Manual you can order to assist you with all your repairs. The part number is 1170635 and is priced at about $20. Searspartsdirect.com also has a repair manual for about the same price. Part number 4314044L. I hope this information is helpful to you.
NOTE: A simple test to determine if the pump is clogged is to use a wet/dry shop to pull a vacuum on the drain line at the standpipe. If the water drains freely, it is not clogged. You can also use simple gravity by removing the drain line from the standpipe at the wall and laying it on the floor. The water will pour out if the pump and lines are clear. This second procedure is messy and I would not recommend it if you have your washer in an indoor laundry room. You can, however, try to use the gravity method by catching the water in a bucket.
Posted on May 15, 2010
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