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Proline pool test kit

I have dual test kit KK 029BL I don't know how many drops to use for testing no instructions were included

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: I just put up an

I sometimes have the same issue with mine.. One thing missing that helps protect the chlorine from burning off in the heavy sun is (Cyanuric Acid)or (CYA) You should be around 30-50ppm.. To bring this level up to 30-50, they sell a conditioner that raises this level.. Don't add too much if your already close to the 30-50ppm.. Other than that, you can continue to run the system as you already do.. Seems like it's maintaining clean and clear... Hope this helps???

Posted on Sep 01, 2011

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SOURCE: 24' X 52" intex pool, I am having trouble with my cholinator not producing chlorine in the water. there are no signals or lights flashing. but when I test for the free chlorine on the strips is do

If you can remove your generator try and bench test it. Fill with pool water and do a chlorine test. Run the generator for a few minutes, unit should produce bubbles when the cells are turned on. Run another chlorine test and make sure it is higher than original test. You should also test your combined chlorines to make sure you don't have excess chloramines in the water. Also check for any buildup on the generator plates which should be acid washed, and verify salt concentration.

Posted on Apr 10, 2013

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Pool stabilizer

Their are no test kits available for residential home owners. Wherev you can take your water sample to will be able to test for cyanaric acid(stabilizer). They will give you the value to add to the water. Follow the instructions on the stabilizer container to add the amount based on the water volume you have for your pool. Most recommend adding it into a stocking and hanking it from the ladder or inside the skimmer to allow for slow dissolving

Jun 28, 2013 | Arch Chemical HTH Pool 4 LB Stabilizer &...

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How much chlorine does this pool need to consume and how often?

for pools that size just get the dissolving tabs sold at most stores, as long as the water stays clear and free from green moss your fine, over adding is worse than adding not enough,, with less you can always increase it, if you don't drain the pool much and its sitting in direct sunlight most the time, you will need to add it more often, you can buy cheap test kits for around 10 dollars that will help a lot in determining what you need

Jul 20, 2011 | Intex Easy Set Swimming Pool 10 x 30 Liner...

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SMALL HOLE BOTTOM OF 15 x 4 metal frame pool. believe a small pebble caused it. water leaking out is there a way to save the poolwithout draining and taking it apart?

Try this....
You will need;
Pool liner patch kit
Body weight to hold you down while doing repair under water.

Most liner repair kits have instructions on wet applications. Cut a piece of the liner kit fabric to cover the entire hole plus at least 1/2" around. You will need to dive in with a mask/goggles to see the hole. Put a thin layer of glue on the patch and spread evenly.. Fold in half on the glue side and go down to the bottom of the pool. Note...The weights will help you stay at the bottom for this part of the repair.. QUICKLY!!! while holding the patch next to the hole. open the patch and place on the hole and push firmly for a few seconds. Come up and place your foot on the patch and hold for 3 minutes or so. Should work...It took me several times to master this technique when I had a hole at the bottom of my pool... Caution!!! You don't need a lot of weight to stay at the bottom. Test from light to heavy until you think you have enough to do the repair..
Good luck and hope this will help you!! If this works for you, please rate!

Jul 19, 2011 | Intex Easy Set Pool 15x36

1 Answer

The water in the electrolytic cell is green? Do I need to clean it?

I assume from your comment about having green water in you electrolytic cell that maybe you don't have it connected to a pool yet or the pool water is green also. Anyway, if you are just starting your system and there is green water in the electrolyic cell then pore it out and when you place it into operation the pool water will clean it out. If the electrolyic cell is working the most overlooked cause for green water besides not having salt in the pool is it has no stabilizer in it. This is a chemical that has an affinity for chlorine ions and if it is not there the chlorine can be disipated in a few hours when the sun hits it. Another name for it is Cyanuric Acid. It can be purchased in granular form at many pool supply stores or in a liquid form at Leslies. In order to get your pool blue you need to have the chemistry checked at a pool store or with a test kit (either liquid or strips). Don't buy everything a pool supply tells you to buy but start out with chemistry test strips, vinyl safe shock, stabilizer and salt. The pool store should be able to help you determine the dose. The following is what I would do:
1. Make sure salt is at the recommended concentration.
2. Shock the pool to recommended dose to start killing the algae.
3. Place the recomended dose of stabilizer in the pool.
4. Make sure pump and filter are working properly.

5. Check the pool chemistry on a daily basis until it is ready for swimming (or for at least 1 week).
6. Check the chemistry on a weekly basis and clean the pool and equipment according to the pool instructions.

Smile, you are a pool manager.

Jul 04, 2011 | Intex Automatic Salt Water System for ...

1 Answer

I can't get our Intex salt water pool to test right in any area. The hardness is at 0. The free chlorine is at 1/2. The pH is at 6.8. the TA is at 0. the CYA is at 0. I have utilized the booster...

You must get your water into shape. First get the metal out using a sequestering agent. Next, adjust the alkalinity ... you want to get that to about 100 but any number between 80 and 120 is ok. Calcium is not really a concern in your case since you don't have a plaster pool ... Were it plaster, you would want about 250 to 300 but any number up to 1000 would be ok. With the Alkalinity at 100, adjust your pH to any number between 7.2 and 7.6 with 7.4 being the goal. Cyanuric Acid should be around 70 but no more than 100. Cyanuric acid is "sun screen" for your chlorine. More than 100 will have to be diluted to get rid of the excess. Your salt should be more than 2800 but not more than 3200. You can test this with a Taylor Salt Test kit. When your water is balanced, I would suggest you get the proper amount of salt in and turn on the machine ... then let it run for 24 or more hours ... retest everything.

Jun 19, 2011 | Intex Automatic Salt Water System for ...

1 Answer

My intex salt system is working as it should by the codes. But Chlorine level is very low and won't come up. It is two years old could it just be DONE

If you find anything in my remarks that conflicts with the manufacturers instruction, rely on the manufacturers instruction, and seek guidance from a pool professional in your area.

To make chlorine, you need between 2800 and 3400 PPM salt in the water. Do you have between 2800 and 3400 PPM? How did you test? Do you run your filter 24-7? (you should for best results) Is your cell clean and otherwise in operating order? (clean with muratic acid solution recommended by your pool chemical supplier)

A few words about water balance: Before you replace the device, make sure you have removed all metal from the water (sequestering agent), that your alkalinity is correct (between 80 and 120), that the pH is between 7.2 and 7.6, and the salt is between 2800 and 3400. Not critical for a above ground pool, but check the calcium - in a plaster pool (where this is critical), the recommended level is around 300 ppm. If yours is there, great. If it is 1000 or more, you will have to dilute your water with water that is calcium free to bring the level down to a more comfortable level. (Calcium and Salt are both persistent (not consumable) they will not go away any other way). The only way to reduce these two chemicals is by dulution. The alkalinity should be around 100 as this is "sun block" for the pH. With incorrect alkalinity level, your pH will bounce all over the place. I recommend a Taylor Test kit ... not test strips ... to find the real levels in your pool. Taylor calls it the FSA-DPD kit for professionals, available many places, including advertisers. Expect to pay a little over $50.00 for this kit. Taylor also offers a salt test kit, though it is a little pricey @ about $40.00 in my area.

Of course, if your device is kaput, you can always add chlorine (liquid or dry) manually.

One more thing, since you are making chlorine instead using dry, you should check your Cyanuric acid level(also called stabiliser). A good level is 50 to 80 ppm. Cyanuric Acid is"sun block" for your chlorine. If your cyanuric acid level is low, the sun will eat your chlorine almost as fast as you can make it. Cyanuric acid is also persistent - see above for particulars.

I hope this comment helps resolve your trouble. Enjoy your pool.

BTW, I am a certified Pool Operator and I operate three pools of water in a private, recreational park in a popular resort destination on the East Coast.

May 30, 2011 | Intex Automatic Salt Water System for ...

1 Answer

General interest

Purchased the Northern Industrial Dual Temperature Heat Gun Kit - Model# RP2049K Instead


332049_med.jpg 332049 FREE SHIPPING — Northern Industrial Dual Temperature Heat Gun Kit - Model# RP2049K

Dec 16, 2008 | Pro Line 10 Pc. Proline Heat Gun Kit In...

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