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Reset high limit switch

Won't reset

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6ya6ya
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SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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carmin77
  • 113 Answers

SOURCE: The burners will not light. The pilot does light.

The high limit switch has nothing to do with the pilot light, but will shut down the main burners. It the pilot light will not stay lit, then it is most likely the thermocouple. If the pilot light will not light at all, then gas is not reaching the pilot. Most likely, the pilot light tube is clogged with grease. When you push on the button to light the pilot, you are overriding all safeties inside the unit and sending gas to the pilot. Also make sure that the unit itself is getting gas. New regulations require a shut off within the hose that feeds the appliance which will shut off due to a surge of gas through the hose. To reset it, disconnect/reconnect the hose at the intake end and when you turn the gas back on, turn it on slowly.

Posted on Jun 11, 2011

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1 Answer

My washing machine won't go to high speed spin to remove water from clothes.


Possible there is no switching for the cycle from the controller or there is speed limited due to sensor action for vibration. Check the leveling of the machine, if not use rubber footing to hold the machine steady.
Also check the drives for friction , if so reset and lubricate.

Jan 21, 2013 | Washing Machines

1 Answer

Have power everywhere but won't turn on


see this causes and fix it. God bless you
1. No power to the dryer
Make sure there's power getting to the dryer. Check for a tripped circuit breaker or a blown fuse. Check the wall socket for power with a voltmeter or by plugging something else in. Sometimes the power cord disconnects or burns at the dryer, if this is the case, the wiring and the terminal block must be repaired or replaced.

2. Door switch / Door switch actuator lever
The dryer would not start with a broken door switch. Replace the door switch if found defective.

Most dryers have a door switch actuator lever - when you close a dryer door, it presses against the lever, which actuates the door switch. If the lever is broken, the switch would not activate and the dryer would not start. Replace the lever, if broken.

Note: Door switch actuator lever usually comes with the door switch assembly and it is recommended to get the whole assembly since there is almost no price difference between the door switch assembly and just the lever. Check your model for more details.Thermal Fuse The thermal fuse helps to prevent a dryer fire by shutting off power to the dryer if it overheats. If the dryer won't start check this fuse first. Test the thermal fuse with an ohm meter or continuity checker. This is the most common part to fail when the dryer won't start. Once the thermal fuse has blown, it has to be replaced. It can not be reset.

Thermal Cut Out Fuse Kit Most dryers have several temperature control devices such as a thermal fuse, thermal cut out, high limit fuse or high limit thermostat. Some manufacturers sell the thermal fuse and thermal cut out in a kit. These kits normally solve no-heat problems rather than when the dryer won't start. However, in some models, this kit will solve both problems. Even though this is not the most common part to fail if the dryer won't start, both can be checked using an ohm meter or continuity checker. If they have continuity they are good. If not, they should be replaced.

Main Control Board The main control board is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. First, check all of the other components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the main control board. The main control board can not be tested and must be replaced if it is defective. If there are obvious signs of burning or a shorted out component on the board, it should be replaced.
Timer The timer is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. In many situations where timers are replaced they end up being returned. First, check all of the more common components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the timer. If the dryer won't start, the cause is much more likely to be a thermal fuse or switch. The timer can not be tested, it must be replaced if it is defective.



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Oct 02, 2012 | Dryers

1 Answer

I have an amana dryer,,,it says drying but it won't start,,no sound or nothing....I tried the fuse wires at the bottom direct and still nothing...so I don't think its the fuse...thanks


see this causes and fix it. God bless you
Timer The timer is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. In many situations where timers are replaced they end up being returned. First, check all of the more common components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the timer. If the dryer won't start, the cause is much more likely to be a thermal fuse or switch. The timer can not be tested, it must be replaced if it is defective.

Main Control Board The main control board is normally not at fault when the dryer won't start. First, check all of the other components in this troubleshooting guide before replacing the main control board. The main control board can not be tested and must be replaced if it is defective. If there are obvious signs of burning or a shorted out component on the board, it should be replaced.

Belt Switch If the dryer won't start, there might be a belt switch that has failed. This is not a common problem and most dryers do not have this switch. If the dryer has a belt switch, the switch shuts off power to the entire dryer if the belt breaks. It is possible that this switch has failed, even if the belt is not broken. It can be checked with an ohm meter or continuity checker. If the dryer works at all, even if all it does is hum, this is not the problem.

Incoming Power Problem If the dryer won't start, check to certain there is electricity to the dryer. For a gas dryer, unplug the dryer from the wall and plug something else into the outlet to see if it's working. For an electric dryer, check the home circuit breaker or fuses. If they are working, check the outlet where the dryer plugs in with a volt meter. There should be between 208 and 240 volts. If there is power to the dryer, check the more common items in this troubleshooting guide.

Thermal Cut Out Fuse Kit Most dryers have several temperature control devices such as a thermal fuse, thermal cut out, high limit fuse or high limit thermostat. Some manufacturers sell the thermal fuse and thermal cut out in a kit. These kits normally solve no-heat problems rather than when the dryer won't start. However, in some models, this kit will solve both problems. Even though this is not the most common part to fail if the dryer won't start, both can be checked using an ohm meter or continuity checker. If they have continuity they are good. If not, they should be replaced.

Drive Belt On most dryers, if the drive belt breaks the motor can still be heard and it will still be blowing air out the exhaust tube, but the drum will not spin. However, in some dryers when the drive belt breaks the tension pulley arm trips a switch which shuts off power to the entire dryer. If the dryer won't start, check to see if the belt is broken. If it is, replace the belt and the dryer should be fine. If the belt is not broken, check the other components that can fail when the dryer won't start.

Drive Motor The dryer drive motor turns the drum and the blower wheel to exhaust the air. If the dryer won't start the motor might be defective. Before replacing the motor, check the thermal fuse, start switch and door switch because all three are more likely the cause. If the dryer won't start and the dryer motor makes a humming noise there might be something caught in the blower wheel, or the drum might be binding. Try removing the belt from the motor and checking the blower wheel for obstructions. The dryer motor can't be tested easily. If the more common components have been checked and it seems the motor itself is defective, it will need to be replaced. It is not serviceable.

Door Switch The door switch is located near the dryer door and is activated when the door is closed. If the door switch fails, the dryer won't start at all. Many types of door switch will make an audible click when they are activated. If the door switch makes a clicking sound when activated it is probably not defective. If it doesn't make a click, it can be checked with an ohm meter or continuity checker. The door switch is relatively easy to replace and is usually not very expensive.

Start Switch The start switch is on the dryer control panel. Depending on the model, either press a button or turn a dial to start the dryer. If the start switch fails the dryer won't start or make any noise. Test the switch with an ohm meter or continuity checker. If the dryer hums when the start switch is activated, or if the motor runs only while activating the start switch, the motor might be defective or something might be binding the drum preventing it from turning freely. If the dryer start switch does not have continuity when it is activated, it will need to be replaced.

Thermal Fuse The thermal fuse helps to prevent a dryer fire by shutting off power to the dryer if it overheats. If the dryer won't start check this fuse first. Test the thermal fuse with an ohm meter or continuity checker. This is the most common part to fail when the dryer won't start. Once the thermal fuse has blown, it has to be replaced. It can not be reset.
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Sep 28, 2012 | Dryers

1 Answer

Intertherm model# FEH-015HA It is no longer blowing heat


High limit safety device is probably tripped, it should reset automatically, also check other safety's for tripped condition, they look like small round device located in a variety locations through out the unit with two wires to each one, some have small push button resets located in the burner compartment area. If all the safety's are reset and check out OK the main control board may need replaced. One of the most common causes of high limit safety device trip is lack of air flow, Dirty filters, evaporator coils, malfunctioning blowers, closed supply air registers etc.
Note: High limit safety switches also go bad after being tripped to many times.

Nov 28, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

My keating fryer heats the oil fine to temp set on thermostat but will not re fire when oil temp drops unless I push the high limit button. Don't know if the problem is the themostat or high limit...


Sounds like the thermostat is working because it does heat to the right temperature, right? The high limit switch is to shut it down when it gets too hot, so why that helps the unit relight and heat up is strange? Is this gas or electric? Since hitting the reset or high limit button is what is working, I would start there, and replace that... I don't think either part is super expensive, so replacing both wouldn't be too expensive, especially since you have one of the best fryers ever made... Keating is number one in my book, and I know they are expensive to start with, but these two parts shouldn't be much....however I would start with the high limit switch or reset button... If you need a part, we can get you a price....I'm Susan with Restaurant Equipment Outlet, Cincinnati, Ohio, 888-542-5959, or you can ask for Paul too. Thanks, Susan REO

Sep 12, 2011 | Keating Instant Recovery 20AA (NG) Deep...

1 Answer

When wiring a high limits switch (#471694) on the outlet side of the manifold, which side does the red wire go to?


The wires will go on ether side of the limit switches, so it won't matter wich way you wire it.

Aug 14, 2011 | Pentair Minimax NT Heater

2 Answers

Autofry Mti-5 - no error codes, was working fine and suddenly won't heat up at all.


we have a MTI-5 Autofry, and the display shows "Basket Can't Find Home". what can you recomend?

Jul 31, 2011 | Kitchen Appliances - Others

1 Answer

Won't dry cloths even with vent removed


You may have a heater problem and it's not heating the air temperature right. Check the high limit switch to see if the it has opened. Also check the heating element to see if it has an open circuit. Good luck.

Jun 21, 2011 | Samsung DV218AEW Electric Dryer

1 Answer

Fan staying on at all times brivis tek304


this means a limit switch is open, or the thermostat is set to fan on, as opposed to "auto".
Unplug the unit, then plug it back in and watch the sequence.

If it goes through it's normal operation and then the burners shut off, it means the high limit has been triggered. usually this means the furnace is suffocating, remove your filters and try again.
If it works fine the second time you just need new filters. if not then the high limit is bad.
The high limit is inside, near the burners on the back wall connected to 2 wires.
it's easy to replace, order a new one (be sure to get the right temperature setting, it's on the old one). pull the old one out and plug the new one in. the wires don't have sides as long is one is in Common or C, and one is in NC.

If the main fan comes on first and the furnace does not cycle, it means a limit is open (or the thermostat is in fan on mode). The rest of the limits are on the same circuit as the high limit, trace that circuit and push the button on each switch along the way, if one clicks you know you've reset it... you also know that it has been set off, which implies a safety hazard and technically you should call a pro to come see it.
Anyway, continue along the circuit checking each one until you've come to the main circuit board. then plug the furnace back in and watch it go. if that hasn't fixed it, call a professional.

May 06, 2011 | Heating & Cooling

1 Answer

I have a dyno glo rmc-fa100dlx forced air heater. It will light and work for a few minutes, up to about 5, then it will stop heating and the fan will keep blowing. any ideas? thanks!


If the unit comes on and runs but then shuts down, that sounds like an indication of a high limit trip.

Most, if not all, furnaces have high limit switches that keep a constant check on the temp inside the furnace or air handler. On most systems, once this high limit switch has been made (got to hot), the limit switch breaks control voltage to the heating device (strips, gas, fuel, etc.etc..). The blower motor continues to run until the high limit has dropped in temp and reset itself.

On some models, the high limit is a manual reset, meaning you need to reset the switch yourself or shut the unit off and then back on to reset it.


Check all filters and replace as necessary. Check the coils and fan blades for dirt build-up and cleanliness. Check motor belt (if applicable). If all these fail to solve the problem, then your issue either lies within the blower motor itself not moving enough air for proper heat transfer. Or the high limit switch itself is failing.

Jan 09, 2010 | Heating & Cooling

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