Question about Candy A8001 Dishwasher

3 Answers


My machine started a few months ago to have a red light that indicates salt is missing. Even when the salt is there. For some time it worked anyway. Then (I have no idea if the two issues are connected) the dishwasher started beeping at some point of the cycle, normally within the first 5 to 10 minutes, a few times later, and stopped. I called a guy and he said he should replace the salt tank and possibly the heater, but in any case he would not give a warranty on the repair. So before binning it I decided to disassemble it. I cleaned the vertical tank with a kind of labyrinth in it (some of the ducts seemed obstructed) which is on the side, on top of the salt tank, I reassembled it and it started working again. Fine, it was the obstructions, I thought. After a couple of months, here it goes again. I disassemble it, and there is no more obstructions, of course. I reassemble it, AND IT WORKS WELL AGAIN!!!! Now, a few months later, it has started beeping again, and now we found another trick. We turn it off and on... AND THE SECOND TIME IT GOES!!! This is repeatable. Has Candy got a Windows OS in it???? Any suggestion of what can be the cause of this crazy behaviour? Is the salt LED connected to it? How to fix it too? Is it possible that the resins are exhausted and cause the problem? Is it possible to replace the anti-calcium resins without binning the whole tank, which costs all of 135 USD here? Is putting a polyphosfate anti calcium filter before the dishwasher a good idea? Thanks Maurizio

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  • 11 more comments 
  • mggm59 Oct 20, 2007

    I installed today the board, to no avail. I hope they'll take it back, I kept all packing material.

    In the meantime the problem has become permanent, i.e. it does not get solved by restarting.

    I also whatched it working after putting it on blocks to observe it and there seems to be no problem with motors and pumps and valves, there is water in the tank when it gets blocked.

    Any suggestion of what can be the cause of this crazy behaviour? Does anybody know what the three beeps mean?
    Is the salt LED connected to it? How to fix it too? Is it possible that the resins are exhausted and cause the problem? Is it possible to replace the anti-calcium resins without binning the whole tank, which costs all of 135 USD here? Is putting a polyphosfate anti calcium filter before the dishwasher a good idea?

    I checked the heating element by measuring the resistance. I read a few hundreds ohms, is this correct? If it were broken should I read an open circuit?

    Are there a temperature sensor or a thermostat? I have three parts that I do not know what they are, one close to the conncector of the heater, one close to the heater but further to teh back of the tank and in contact with the water and one white plastic element under the tank which has several contacts (but only two connected). What should I check? I can send pictures of what I have if this helps.


  • mggm59 Oct 20, 2007

    See new comment above for follow-up.


  • mggm59 Nov 04, 2007

    I tested all the grounds I could find, i.e. all the yellow-green wires by connecting them to the ground contact of the power plug through a tester and they all tested good, i.e. very low resistance.

    Beyond the one at the entrance of the power wire, there were however only three, on the motor, on the heater resistor and on the front door, where the controls are. I did not find any yellow green wires going to the electronics control board. Should I test some other color wire?

    I still wonder however, what does the red light on the salt indicator and the three beeps mean.

  • mggm59 Nov 04, 2007

    Here are some pics, I hope they make sense for you. I have traced the wire that lights the red light to a sensor on the salt tank (as it could be expected) and this is a magnetic switch that apparently works correctly.

    What is this device near the water input valve with a small tube getting out?

    In this picture I see two devices I am not sure what they are. The one near the heater could be a temperature sensor, although why put it so close to the heater (and there is another one under the heater farther away, the blue one in the picture, is it also a temperature sensor? Why two?) but I really have no idea of the round white thing with a small tube attached.

  • mggm59 Nov 06, 2007

    I am gonna try shorting the sensor on the salt tank, although I tested it and it seemed to work, is is a magnetic switch, when a floater in the salt tank moves, it breaks or closes the circuit).

    The small tube in the top picture goes to the side of the main tank (the plastic one under the bottom of the inox container, where the filter and the pump are).

    The round white thing is far from the salt tank and also has a small tube getting out of it which connects to the same plastic tank, next to the other tube.

    Is the blue item another temperature sensor? Why are there two of tehm, one close to teh heater attachment point and another away from it (but still under the heater)? If I had the resistance values I could test the heater, and maybe something else. I applied 220v to the valves and they work.

  • mggm59 Nov 08, 2007

    The red light disappears when I disconnect completely the sensor, if I short the wires it remains red. I tried launching the washing but it stops as before.

  • mggm59 Nov 08, 2007

    If this can help, there are two green lights (the first and the last), which are flashing at the same time than the three beeps.

  • mggm59 Nov 09, 2007

    As far as the water input is concerned, I find water when it stops: should there be aproblem there, I should not find any, right?

    On the othere hand it stops too early, I think, to be a problem with to the drain. Also, in the past the moment in which it stopped was widely variable. Sometimes quite early (like yesterday) sometimes after 10-15 minutes or more.

    About the float, I have no idea of where it is, if there is one. I also thought about something like that, since it started going well after I turned the machine on its side to work on it.

    Is there a way to check the heater (and the temperature sensor and the other items I do not know what they are?). Yesterday the water was cold when it syopped, but proably it was too early.

  • mggm59 Nov 10, 2007

    Thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately I am leaving for a week right now, so I will be unable to work on the machine for some time. I'll try as soon as I come back.


  • mggm59 Nov 10, 2007

    I managed to test it before leaving. If I blow I hear a click and the contacts which are connected switch from open circuit to short. It seems to work, if this is what it is supposed to do.

    Did you find any scheme, or manual, so that we can uinderstand what teh flashing LEDs and the three beeps mean, and what the correct values of resistance should be?


  • mggm59 Nov 20, 2007

    Thanks, but I need you to be more precise. Which tube? The one the water enters or the one it goes out? The entering one goes threough the salt tank, what is it likely to be plugged?

  • mggm59 Dec 01, 2007

    I have got more news on the subject recently.

    I contacted Candy to know the meaning of teh beeps and lights, and a technician said it was a problem with water input. He also agreed with your doubts on the float switch. I have disconnected it again, blown through both cleat tubes (the one from the float and another one which is connected on one side to the bottom of the wash basin at the bottom of the machine (near the point where the other clear tube is connected) and on the other to a valve (I think) on the water input.

    I reconnected everything and the first time it worked flawlessly. The second, and following times, error again.

    It's driving me crazy. Can the other valve be the problem? What checks can I do. I checked the float, and blowing in the pipe I see the contacts switching from open to close circuit, so it should be working. Unless there is some sort of regulation to do to set the triggering pressure.

    Thanks for any suggestion


  • mggm59 Dec 16, 2007

    I tried a  I got from a Candy technician (clean the plastic contatiner where the clear tube connects, there could be some stuff that plug teh holes, it WORKED one time and then started acting again. I  tried the suggestion to check the pressostat by shorting the wires. For some reason there was a short (not among them, I guess, maybe with the chassis) and teh machine was stuck in water expulsion mode. I gave up and changed it.

    Thanks anyway



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Try to used air compressor and put it to the host or tube where all the water running flow with it in order to force the water clean in the hole way of your machine. I think there was no problem issue with you electric connector's and other particular system.

Please rate me solved if you like my solution.

Best regards,


Posted on Nov 17, 2007

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Maurizio have you solved your problem?its sounds like an electrical problem.make sure all your ground wires are making a good ground.

Posted on Oct 25, 2007

  • 3 more comments 
  • anthony james
    anthony james Nov 04, 2007

    maurizio send me some pics in the process of finding a schematic.

  • anthony james
    anthony james Nov 06, 2007

    where does the small tube connect to?the objects by the heater is a temp sensor and the other my be the salt there a sensor on the salt tank,if so jump out the sensor with a wire,see what happens.then connect it back if it doesnt work and jump the other out.let me know.

  • anthony james
    anthony james Nov 08, 2007

    i know im getting off the subject but are you sure there are no blockages in the water line to the unit or the drain hose?how about the float,does it move freely and check for continuity.

  • anthony james
    anthony james Nov 09, 2007

    maurizio,i belive that small clear tube is connected to your float switch,its a diaphram type switch.remove the hose and blow thru it and make sure its clear.let me know.

  • anthony james
    anthony james Dec 08, 2007

    hey maurizio,sorry couldnt get to you sooner (health issues).The vavle you see is the fill valve,this shouldnt be the issue.You need to make sure that the float switch is not the problem.Get a multimeter and check for continuity through it.Either the water pressure to the dishwasher is too low or that float switch is acting up.Take the wires off the switch,jump the wires out,turn the unit on and count to 20 seconds then take the jumper off the wires.If this works the switch is bad.


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The problem is your control board (main electronic board in the console) is no good. by shutting the power off to the unit you are "resetting" the board which gives you temperary relief from the problem replace the main board and you will have no further problems let me know how you make out

Posted on Sep 29, 2007

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