Question about Whirlpool LGR3624JQ Gas Dryer
1. The igniter has continuity. 2. The thermal fuse has continuity. 3. The flame sensor has continuity. 4. The solenoids were replaced. 5. There is a gas supply to the unit. 6. The high limit thermostat was replaced. I left the power supply to the dryer on and noticed that the solenoids were very hot next day. Is this an indication that there are electrical issues some ware? Thanks for any suggestions.
What solenoids are you referring to?
When you set the timer and heat selector switches on your dryer and press the button [switch] to turn it on, the direction of 120VAC passes through the heat selector switch through the timer switch through the cycling thermostat through the hi-limit switch, through the thermal cut-off fuse to the burner assembly's gas valve.
Simultaneously, as the current is traveling through a path to the 1st gas valve coil, current is also traveling through a path to the flame sensor- and then to the igniter.
The igniter will begin to glow and when it gets hot enough, the flame sensor will detect the heat and switch off. which then diverts current to the second gas valve coils.
The second gas valve coils activate plungers in the gas valve which allows gas to flow out into the burner housing. The igniter still being hot, ignites the gas to a long blue flame.
To maintain the proper air temperature, the heat in the blower housing is monitored by the cycling thermostat. During normal operation, air temperature should be between 120 degrees Fahrenheit and 160 degrees Fahrenheit.
When the air reaches the proper temperature specific to your dryer model, the cycling thermostat will switch off the voltage to the burner assembly.
The hi-limit thermostat and thermal cut-off fuse monitor the drum air temperature. If there is an air flow problem [restriction or total blockage], the hi-limit thermostat may switch off the voltage to prevent damage to the dryer.
Eventually, if the air flow problem [restriction or total blockage] is not corrected, the thermal cut-off fuse will fail (blow) and the dryer won't heat at all.
Check continuity to the following components, thermal cut-off fuse, hi-limit thermostat, igniter, flame sensor, and cycling thermostat. Of course you will take your readings with the power cord of the dryer unplugged from the wall outlet.
You will either disconnect [isolate] any of the wire leads going to their respective components during the test [using a multimeter (analog or digital)]; OR remove each of the components entirely from the dryer to test them.
1.) A good thermal cut-off fuse will have 0 Ohms of resistance. On the other hand, if the needle [on a an analog tester] does not move OR the digital display [on a digital meter] has not changed significantly, there is NO continuity - which means the fuse has burned out and needs to be replaced
2.) A dryer's Hi-Limit Thermostat is activated by hi-temperature changes (between 250 degrees Fahrenheit and 300 degrees Fahrenheit.
A good hi-limit thermostat will have 0 Ohms of resistance at room temperature.
To test the thermostat's response to temperature change, place the component on an electric griddle or skillet. Set the heat on the skillet or griddle to the appropriate temperature according to the temperature rating stamped on the hi-limit thermostat you are testing. If the hi-limit thermostat switches off within 5% of that temperature, the part is functioning properly. However, if the hi-limit thermostat does not switch off OR switches off prematurely, the hi-limit thermostat is faulty and will have to be replaced. [Remember, when the switch turns off at the appropriate temperature level- you should get a high resistance reading to show that the circuit is "open")
3.) Perform the same procedure as step 2 to test the Cycling Thermostat: First at room temperature and then its response to temperature change. The only difference is, the test temperature range will be somewhere between 120-160 degrees Fahrenheit Once again, refer to the temperature rating stamped on the component you are testing- and the 5% tolerance remains the same, too.
4.) The resistance reading for the igniter is between 50 and 400 Ohms of resistance; anything else, it's faulty- toss it and replace it.
5.) You should get a resistance reading of 0 Ohms at the flame sensor-
Flame sensors are tricky though. Flame sensors could still short out and allow the igniter to glow- but would prevent voltage from reaching the gas coil. For example, the igniter will glow and not turn off and a flame will not be established because there was no voltage at the gas coil to open up and release gas for ignition.
Hope this info helps...I would appreciate a follow-up from you when you resolve this problem- to gain more knowledge and skill.
Thank-you and best wishes on your project
Posted on Dec 05, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Take a volt meter and call for the unit to come on. Take the connector off to the igniter and check for voltage to those wires. If you get voltage but it does not start, then you know the igniter is bad. It could also be a limit switch. There will be 2 wires that terminate to a small disk with a button in the center. Depress the button firmly to reset it. It should be located near the burner. If it is the timer, you will need to locate and isolate the power wires leaving the timer and check voltage there. Hopefully this information is helpful.
Posted on Apr 17, 2009
Remove 1 wire from the element . Your 220 V comes from ...110 motor , 110 control board . Check which wire is not getting 110 V , trace it and see which it comes from . That will tell you which one is defective .
Posted on Aug 01, 2009
SOURCE: igniter won't glow
I am assuming that everything works OK except you have no heat?
When you turn on dryer listen for gas valve to click(this may take a few seconds).If you don't have a click then the gas valve my be bad or it is not getting power.
Dryer has to be running to check for power only experienced persons should perform machine running power tests.
Let me know If I can do anything else to help.
Posted on Mar 20, 2010
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1. Inspect the fuses and circuit breakers they may have burned out or tripped. Usually, dryer will still tumble but not create heat if a fuse or a circuit breaker is not working.
2. Check for the continuity of the heating element in your gas dryer using a multimeter. Replace the element if continuity is not there.
3. Inspect the thermal fuse if it is burnt out, it is attached to the exhaust duct on the back panel of the gas dryer. Replace if necessary.
4. Check the igniter by first disconnecting it, and then place the probes onto the two contacts of the igniter. The meter should read under 100 Ohms of resistance, if it is above 100 then replace the igniter.
5. Check the continuity on the flame sensor. The sensors are usually located close by the igniter so are easily visible.
Hope this helps...
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