Question about Whirlpool LGR3624JQ Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Non Glowing Igniter

1. The igniter has continuity. 2. The thermal fuse has continuity. 3. The flame sensor has continuity. 4. The solenoids were replaced. 5. There is a gas supply to the unit. 6. The high limit thermostat was replaced. I left the power supply to the dryer on and noticed that the solenoids were very hot next day. Is this an indication that there are electrical issues some ware? Thanks for any suggestions.

Posted by on

Ad

1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points

    All-Star:

    An expert that got 10 achievements.

    MVP:

    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Vice President:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.

  • Master
  • 794 Answers

What solenoids are you referring to?

When you set the timer and heat selector switches on your dryer and press the button [switch] to turn it on, the direction of 120VAC passes through the heat selector switch through the timer switch through the cycling thermostat through the hi-limit switch, through the thermal cut-off fuse to the burner assembly's gas valve.

Simultaneously, as the current is traveling through a path to the 1st gas valve coil, current is also traveling through a path to the flame sensor- and then to the igniter.

The igniter will begin to glow and when it gets hot enough, the flame sensor will detect the heat and switch off. which then diverts current to the second gas valve coils.

The second gas valve coils activate plungers in the gas valve which allows gas to flow out into the burner housing. The igniter still being hot, ignites the gas to a long blue flame.

To maintain the proper air temperature, the heat in the blower housing is monitored by the cycling thermostat. During normal operation, air temperature should be between 120 degrees Fahrenheit and 160 degrees Fahrenheit.

When the air reaches the proper temperature specific to your dryer model, the cycling thermostat will switch off the voltage to the burner assembly.

The hi-limit thermostat and thermal cut-off fuse monitor the drum air temperature. If there is an air flow problem [restriction or total blockage], the hi-limit thermostat may switch off the voltage to prevent damage to the dryer.

Eventually, if the air flow problem [restriction or total blockage] is not corrected, the thermal cut-off fuse will fail (blow) and the dryer won't heat at all.

Check continuity to the following components, thermal cut-off fuse, hi-limit thermostat, igniter, flame sensor, and cycling thermostat. Of course you will take your readings with the power cord of the dryer unplugged from the wall outlet.

You will either disconnect [isolate] any of the wire leads going to their respective components during the test [using a multimeter (analog or digital)]; OR remove each of the components entirely from the dryer to test them.

1.) A good thermal cut-off fuse will have 0 Ohms of resistance. On the other hand, if the needle [on a an analog tester] does not move OR the digital display [on a digital meter] has not changed significantly, there is NO continuity - which means the fuse has burned out and needs to be replaced

2.) A dryer's Hi-Limit Thermostat is activated by hi-temperature changes (between 250 degrees Fahrenheit and 300 degrees Fahrenheit.

A good hi-limit thermostat will have 0 Ohms of resistance at room temperature.

To test the thermostat's response to temperature change, place the component on an electric griddle or skillet. Set the heat on the skillet or griddle to the appropriate temperature according to the temperature rating stamped on the hi-limit thermostat you are testing. If the hi-limit thermostat switches off within 5% of that temperature, the part is functioning properly. However, if the hi-limit thermostat does not switch off OR switches off prematurely, the hi-limit thermostat is faulty and will have to be replaced. [Remember, when the switch turns off at the appropriate temperature level- you should get a high resistance reading to show that the circuit is "open")

3.) Perform the same procedure as step 2 to test the Cycling Thermostat: First at room temperature and then its response to temperature change. The only difference is, the test temperature range will be somewhere between 120-160 degrees Fahrenheit Once again, refer to the temperature rating stamped on the component you are testing- and the 5% tolerance remains the same, too.

4.) The resistance reading for the igniter is between 50 and 400 Ohms of resistance; anything else, it's faulty- toss it and replace it.

5.) You should get a resistance reading of 0 Ohms at the flame sensor-

Flame sensors are tricky though. Flame sensors could still short out and
allow the igniter to glow- but would prevent voltage from reaching the gas coil. For example, the igniter will glow and not turn off and a flame will not be established because there was no voltage at the gas coil to open up and release gas for ignition.

Hope this info helps...I would appreciate a follow-up from you when you resolve this problem- to gain more knowledge and skill.

Thank-you and best wishes on your project

Posted on Dec 05, 2013

Ad

4 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

Hi,
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
goodluck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017

Ad
  • 659 Answers

SOURCE: Whirpool gas dryer not heating up

Take a volt meter and call for the unit to come on. Take the connector off to the igniter and check for voltage to those wires. If you get voltage but it does not start, then you know the igniter is bad. It could also be a limit switch. There will be 2 wires that terminate to a small disk with a button in the center. Depress the button firmly to reset it. It should be located near the burner. If it is the timer, you will need to locate and isolate the power wires leaving the timer and check voltage there. Hopefully this information is helpful.

Posted on Apr 17, 2009

aasc
  • 1606 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool duet electric wil not heat

Remove 1 wire from the element . Your 220 V comes from ...110 motor , 110 control board . Check which wire is not getting 110 V , trace it and see which it comes from . That will tell you which one is defective .

Posted on Aug 01, 2009

kvhappliance
  • 218 Answers

SOURCE: igniter won't glow

Hi,
I am assuming that everything works OK except you have no heat?
When you turn on dryer listen for gas valve to click(this may take a few seconds).If you don't have a click then the gas valve my be bad or it is not getting power.

Dryer has to be running to check for power only experienced persons should perform machine running power tests.
Let me know If I can do anything else to help.

Posted on Mar 20, 2010

Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%

my-video-file.mp4

Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add

×

Loading...
Loading...

Related Questions:

1 Answer

Gas dryer igniter replaced, still will not glow


You are on track that is you're issue and the solenoids should be replaced, you seem to be very able but if a video is needed I can send one. Thanks and Good Luck!!!!!!

Jul 06, 2017 | Whirlpool LGR5636L Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Igniter not glowing


follow this steps and fix it. God bless you
1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.
Read more: http://www.appliancepartspros.com/repair-help/dryer-repair-help.html#electric#ixzz2gV5HB12V
http://www.appliancepartspros.com

Oct 01, 2013 | Whirlpool LGR7648KQ Dryer

2 Answers

My Kenmore gas dryer 417.90042990 will not heat. Otherwise it works fine. How can I fix it?


Here is the troubleshooting order. The first thing to check is the igniter if glowing red hot when the dryer is started and runs. If it turns red hot, the problem is with the radiant sensor or the gas valve solenoid coils. The radiant sensor must align perfectly with the igniter. The radiant sensor contacts bypasses one of the gas valve solenoid coils and as the igniter heats up it makes the sensor contact trips unbypassing the coil and allowing the gas to flow and be ignited.

The problem is with the solenoid coils sitting on top of the gas valves, one with 2-prongs and the other has 3, if the igniter turns red hot and the radiant sensor is aligned with it and working perfectly but no gas is ignited. In this case, both solenoids must be replaced. The resistance of the 2-prong coils is around 1200 ohms while the 3-pronged one is around 1320 ohms between the outer prongs.

The igniter is good if it reads 100 ohms. The safety thermostat on the burner cone is blown open if the igniter does not glow red hot. Check the continuity of the safety thermostat and the cycling thermostat on the bower housing. Replace both the
safety thermostat and the cycling thermostat if the safety thermostat is found open.

Please accept the solution should you find it helpful and/or informative. Accepting the solution will not stop you from posting comments or additional information. You can still communicate with the expert should you need further advice regarding the issue stated herein.

Jul 09, 2011 | Kenmore 63942 Dryer

1 Answer

My gas Dryer turns but does not heat up. I don't see nay flame. I would liek to repair it myself. I appreciate your help.


Hi


1. Inspect the fuses and circuit breakers they may have burned out or tripped. Usually, dryer will still tumble but not create heat if a fuse or a circuit breaker is not working.

2. Check for the continuity of the heating element in your gas dryer using a multimeter. Replace the element if continuity is not there.

3. Inspect the thermal fuse if it is burnt out, it is attached to the exhaust duct on the back panel of the gas dryer. Replace if necessary.

4. Check the igniter by first disconnecting it, and then place the probes onto the two contacts of the igniter. The meter should read under 100 Ohms of resistance, if it is above 100 then replace the igniter.

5. Check the continuity on the flame sensor. The sensors are usually located close by the igniter so are easily visible.

Hope this helps...

Daniel

Oct 20, 2010 | Kenmore 74602 Gas Dryer

2 Answers

Dryer fails to heat up. I tried replacing the glow bar with no success.


Hi

If your dryer is not heating, then check if the power cord is plugged into the wall. It may be loose or disconnected. Inspect the fuses and circuit breakers they may have burned out or tripped. Usually, dryer will still tumble but not create heat if a fuse or a circuit breaker is not working. Now, check whether the heating element in your gas dryer is burned out by using an ohm meter to check for continuity. If the continuity is not there then you would need to replace the element. After checking the element, check out the thermal fuse to see if it's burned out. The thermal fuse is attached to the exhaust duct on the back panel of the gas dryer. It's usually surrounded by a black resin material situated in a housing made of white plastic. If the fuse looks like it's blown, then it needs to be replaced.
Now, check the igniter, there is a plastic connector attaching the igniter to the burner. Disconnect this and place the probes onto the two contacts of the igniter. The meter should read under 100 Ohms of resistance. If the reading is above 100 ohms then igniter is bad. If the igniter passes the test then you need to test continuity on the flame sensor. You should have continuity between the two contacts. If not, then you need to replace the flame sensor. The sensors are usually located close by the igniter so are easily visible. Hope this helps...
Daniel

Sep 04, 2010 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer tumbles continuously but does not dry. When


Check the following areas to combat this issue. the most common problem spot will be a blown Thermal fuse, but in your case, i would pay close attention to the gas valve coils.


1. Gas valve coils
igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. igniter
igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.

Oct 03, 2009 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

I have a lgr4634jq1 gas dryer flame wont stay lit runs but no heat


Check the following areas to combat this issue. the most common problem spot will be a blown Thermal fuse.


1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.

Sep 09, 2009 | Whirlpool Dryers

1 Answer

IGNITOR GLOWS BUT THERES NO FLAME


Check the following areas to combat this issue. the most common problem spot will be a blown Thermal fuse.


1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.

Aug 04, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Dryer's flame cycles but will not burn


Check the following to address this issue..


1. Gas valve coils
Igniter glows, then shuts off without igniting gas - the problem is probably with defective coils (black, located on top of the gas valve). It is recommended to replace all coils (usually two or three) if found defective.

Note: Sometimes the whole gas valve may be defective, thus not letting the gas out. However, this problem is not common.

2. Thermal fuse
Most dryers have a thermal fuse, which burns out when the dryer overheats, in which case the dryer will either not run at all or stop heating. The fuse is usually located on the vent duct, inside the dryer. A blown fuse will show no continuity when measured with a meter. Before replacing the fuse, make sure the blower wheel is not broken or clogged, and there is nothing blocking the venting.

Note: It is recommended by most dryer manufacturers to replace a hi-limit thermostat when replacing a thermal fuse.

3. Igniter
Igniter may burn out or break. Replace the igniter if found defective.

Note: Igniters are very fragile and break easily. It is recommended to handle the igniter only touching the ceramic part of it (usually white in color).

4. Flame sensor (or radiant heat sensor)
Replace the sensor (located near the igniter) if found defective.

Jun 01, 2009 | Dryers

Not finding what you are looking for?
Whirlpool LGR3624JQ Gas Dryer Logo

57 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Whirlpool Dryers Experts

Dan Webster
Dan Webster

Level 3 Expert

8220 Answers

Tim Whalen

Level 3 Expert

3074 Answers

Sal DeAngelo

Level 3 Expert

2180 Answers

Are you a Whirlpool Dryer Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides

Loading...