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that is a 12vdc power problem. the sensors are failing , many do to lost power. (12vdc electrical distribution power) so use a voltemeter, i bet even at he cig lighter port the voltage drops below 13.3v running, way below. infact. are your battery terminals clean, is the rested voltage at the battery terms 12.6v (keys in pocket) no? then the battery is being discharged,
Im guessing you have a maytag refrigerator. If this is a side by side model, one of the more common problems that cause the fridge side temps to increase, followed by a freezer temp increase, is likely due to a faulty adaptive defrost control failing to switch the unit into the defrost cycle. There are other possible reasons, but with your limited info, cant be sure
I don't think its a variable resistor or rheostat. I think its an actual I/O switch that controls smaller solenoids maybe up to three that divert air in places and open a door or close a door to the heater core that should be very hot. It may be a malfunctioning switch or a divert er solenoid or one of the solenoid could be broken because it is just plastic. The last thing i would check (not to be rude) is your coolant level a low level wont circulate your heater core making it quite cool.good luck hope this helps.
you need to replace the ( e o c ) the clock ) it's lost the ability to comprehend your needs .. the 350 start up is normal / but the up arrow should increase temp .. time should not be changing .. replace the clock / this part # 4452240 is n l a ) your clock can be sent in to be repaired / only . hope this info will help .. & 238.00 last price on this clock .
If it is a heat pump, the compressor will be running both in cool mode and in normal heat mode.
Confirm the current indoor temperature. Turn the thermostat up one degree at a time until it comes on. This will typically be 1 to 4 degrees increase. As soon as it comes on stop increasing the temp.
If the compressor is running, it is a heat pump.
Check the temperature coming our of the vents at that time. You should have 30 to 60 degrees increase from the air temp going into the unit and the conditioned air temp coming out.
Then turn the T-stat up another 10 degrees. If the temp coming out of the vents increases by 20 degrees or more. the strips are on.
The strips operate in three situations.
1) the system is set to emergency heat
2) The heat pump cannot keep up with the demand for heat. (because its too cold outside, the desired temp setting is greater than 4 to 8 degrees above the room temp, or the HP is malfunctioning.)
3) The HP is in defrost mode
You could also take the panels off the unit and look for a reversing valve, but unless you know what you are looking for you will not recognise it.
to decrease or increase temp we use a button or switch and this switches reach order for control board as a general basis so if the tow functions - & + faulty together then i think it is the control board need to change
there is an ambient temp. sensor in the intake air ducting, if its a small round two wire plug you can unplug it and the computer will think its -40C. You will set a code when you do this, but should go away after you plug it back in.
Depending on the engine you could have a cracked mainshaft in your distributor which is quite common, unfortunately most cracks are on the underside of the shaft which requires removing the distributor.
P1511 Idle Switch (Electric Control Throttle) Circuit Malfunction . An electronic throttle control (ETC) system to control an idle speed of an engine includes an accessory that increases a load on the engine and a controller that generates an idle request signal based on the increased load. Good luck and hope this helps