Question about Refrigerators
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Check in your owners manual for a "noise" section to see if you can identify the source. Refers make lots of unusual noises so it helps to understand if they are normal or not. Over cold in the fridge may be due to the air damper system being stuck open or food placed too close to the air duct outlet. Frost in the freezer can be due to moisture getting inside from a bad door seal, etc.
Posted on Dec 23, 2006
Try these solutions in these order:
1. Switch off the fridge and leave the door open overnight. Switch it back on in the morning.
Explanation: The sensor inside the fridge gets frozen and cannot control the temperature properly.
2. Switch off the fridge. Unplug it. At the back of the fridge (behind the unit, not inside) there is a large grid. Clean it with a hoover thoroughly. Open the fridge. Dry the back of the fridge if wet (inside the fridge). If frosted wait for it to defrost and then dry it. Plug in the fridge. Switch the fridge back on. This one worked for me.
Explanation: The dust in the grid deprives the fridge from cooling down and the unit can't control the temperature in the fridge section.
3. Switch off the fridge. -Unplug it. Empty it. Turn it upside down. Plug it in. Switch it on for 24 hours. Switch it off. Unplug, return to normal and switch on.
Explanation: This has to do with the pressure of the gas inside the compressor. I have not tried it but this advice as given to me by a qualified electrician when I commented the (in)famous F2 problem in Liebherr fridge/freezers.
Hope it helps. Regards. Albert
Posted on Jan 04, 2009
SOURCE: bosch intelligent frost free 40
The small drain pipe on the back of the fridge gets clogged, hence no drainage when defrosting, hence ice blocks the airflow between the freezer compartment and the fridge compartment.
Remove the rubber stop from the drain pipe and clean (can be found above the motor)
Defrost the fridge for a few days (it takes at least 48 hours). During this time, if you are not brave enough to remove the internal panels of the freezer and continually clean the water, check for water coming out and clean.
If during the defrost there is no water coming out the drain pipe, use about 2m of flexible and strong wire to clean the pipe.
The aim is to unblock the pipe once the ice has melted.
Posted on May 12, 2009
You can find most user manauls at, www.managemyhome.com, on the right side of the page. You will need the model number off the product information label affixed to the unit.
Posted on Jul 05, 2009
Your refrigerator's cool is provided by your freezer section through a damper - there should not be excessive frost on the cooling coils - the most common problem is a defrost timer - are you absolutely sure the noise you hear is the defrost this is the first thing to check, defrost control and its components, is it properly shutting off or stuck on during operation - the next thing to check is for possible sealed system problems / small leaks, door gasket seals, etc.
The fact that it started to work once you manually defrosted is the key here - an over forsted evap will cause the problems you describe most commonly - so have your defrost system checked completly and properly - that should solve the problem. followed by checking door gaskets, damper and sealed system - if only part of the coils are frosted as opposed to the entire surface, that usually a clue to sealed system leak - yes 10C is quite warm for a refrigerator. It should be between 34F-40F, optimal is 34F. And freezer section no warmer than 10F, optimal at 0F (-18C)
Posted on Aug 24, 2009
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