Question about Frigidaire Refrigerators
Hello Michael - According from the model number posted above you seem to have a side by side refrigerator, is that correct? Often when your refrigerator is not cooling, it could have floating restriction in the line or something more complicated like an issue with the sealed system that only a professional can repair. This can include the compressor not working, the evaporator fan not turning, or even coolant in the lines at incorrect levels to properly cool. If the compressor is running, humming, or even a little warm that is typically normal. I suggest cleaning the unit out including the coils you can reach (typically located in the bottom behind the toe grille) and make sure no food items are blocking any vents in the unit. Also try checking and see if the door seal is bad; place a dollar bill between the body of the freezer and the door. Now close the door. The dollar bill should stay in place and pull out with a small amount of resistance. If the dollar bill falls out when placed between the gasket and cabinet double check to see if the door is being blocked by anything stopping it from closing. If any of these suggestions prove to be ineffective, connect with a professional to accurately pinpoint any potentially more serious issues.
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
check freezer for frost build up and if fan blowing, check condenser make sure clean, and fan blowing, check vents in refrig. make sure no blockage, freezer control should be in the middle setting, you can try turning that to Warmer Freezer allowing MORE air to refrigertor side.
Posted on Sep 03, 2007
bulmer...it takes about two days to fully defrost these units unless you take the freezer section cover off and use a heat source. If you do...be sure to protect yourself against water and electricity mixing....not healthy. See below for another note.
clean the condenser coils below the unit.
check for the amount of gas in the unit. It must be off for half an hour. Remove the back fiber panel. The big thing is the compressor. Clean off the largest pipe coming out of it. Plug the unit in...watch out for the fan! The pipe should frost up and then clear off or stay wet after about 5 minutes. It should not be frosty. If it is, you need refrigerant.
Note: If you do remove the inside freezer panel and defrost, you can see how much refrigerant you have in your unit. Start the unit. Wait 5 minutes and observe the coils. They should be evenly frosted end to end. If approximately so, you're good. If not, you're low on gas.
Posted on Dec 18, 2007
Hi. I had the same problem (funnily just as my warranty had run out) hotpoint wanted about £90 plus parts for a call out. You need to replace the Yellow thermistor in the freezer compartment (quite easy with a cross screwdriver and thin fingers). I got mine from Uk White Goods for about £20 they give advice too. Solved it instantly. Thanks HOTPOINT, wont be spending £600 with you again. Good Luck.
Posted on Aug 07, 2008
i have just fixed my fridge freezer by following the instruction from KarenBa and GWoman i have also managed to stop the lights (super cool and super freeze) from flashing by turning the temperature to zero on both fridge and freezer so they turn off then holding both super buttons down for about 15 seconds then turning the temperature back up. hope this helps
Posted on Feb 24, 2009
Hello there. Let me see if I can assist you.
A refrigerator or freezer that is cooling, but cooling poorly, may have a problem in one of several areas:
Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils or a condenser that is clogged with dust, lint, and dirt.
Evaporator coils Poor cooling is often the result of a heavy frost build-up on the evaporator coils. You can't see these coils without removing a panel on the inside of your freezer. A sure sign that there is a build-up is the presence of any frost or ice build-up on the inside walls, floor, or ceiling of the freezer. Such a frost build-up usually indicates a problem in the self-defrosting system or damaged door gaskets.
The refrigerator is supposed to self-defrost approximately four times in every 24 hour period. If one of the components in the self-defrosting system fails, the refrigerator continues to try to cool. Eventually, though, so much frost builds up on the evaporator coils that the circulating fan can't draw air over the coils. There may still be a small amount of cooling because the coils are icy, but with no air flow over the coils, cooling in the refrigerator compartment is quite limited.
Here's an inexpensive, though inconvenient, way to determine if the problem is with the self-defrosting system. Remove all of the perishable food from the refrigerator and freezer, turn the thermostat in the refrigerator to Off, and leave the doors open for 24 to 48 hours. (Be sure to have several towels ready in case the melting frost and ice causes the drip pan to overflow). This allows the refrigerator to defrost "manually." When the frost and ice build-up has completely melted away, turn the thermostat back to a normal setting. If the refrigerator then cools properly, it indicates a problem with one of three components in the self-defrosting system:
Condenser Self-defrosting refrigerators all have a set of coils and a cooling fan, usually under the refrigerator, that need to be cleaned regularly. If these coils get coated with dust, dirt or lint, the refrigerator may not cool properly. The coils may appear to be a thin, black, wide radiator-like device behind the lower kick-panel. To clean them, disconnect the refrigerator from the power source, use a refrigerator condenser brush (see the Appliance Accessories section) and your vacuum cleaner to clean the coils of any lint, pet hair, etc. You may not be able to get to all of the condenser from the front, it may be necessary to clean the remainder of the condenser from the rear of the refrigerator.
Posted on May 27, 2009
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