Question about Washing Machines
Posted by Anonymous on
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
On newer, and sometimes a little newer, Whirlpool and Kenmore (Kenmore is made by Whirlpool) considers a few things in determing capacity. Most of the inner baskets are the same size, but they also add in agitator action into the mix. A Kenmore with an auger top agitator would have higher capacity than a Kenmore with just a normal agitator, even though it has the same sized drum. So a super capacity washer would have theoretically less CLEANING CAPACITY than a super capacity plus. The agitator action is actually what determines capacity on these models. So, with that in mind, cubic load should be about the same on both units. Sorry that I had to go into "Bill Nye The Washer Guy" mode, but thats about the only way to describe. Let me know if I can confuse you any more haha. Seriously though, if you need further help or info, write back, and will try to get you some other information. Remember, this theory only works on top load "normal people" washers, not the front loaders.
Posted on Feb 15, 2008
A F51 error is cause by a rotational position sensor failure or RPS. The cause of this is a faulty plug at the sensor that jitters under vibration causing incorrect readings. I have worked on about 50 of these machines and have found a kit which cures the problem. The kit is a retrofit so the lower harness has to be replaced but you will be more peaceful for doing it. For 50.53 depending on where you purchase it you can get kit # W10183157. What I will commit you to is first looking and taking photos as this is class 101. We want to note the connections on the sensor, the stator and the 2 pumps on the bottom. On the console back left and right side and middle is a phillips screw to back out until flush with its frame and then pull forward and flip to expose the mcu. First we will concentrate on the motor control unit and how the harness plugs into the unit. I could not get a photo of the motor control unit so here is how we will id the wires.
To id all the wires being replaced first gain access to the rear of the washer after unplugging the unit. We want to remove the back panel to expose the harness that runs down the left side, user looking into back of unit. On the new harness all wire colors are the same except the updated sensor wiring. This is on the right corner of the mcu and the old wires are all brown and the new is multicolor. For the rest I would unplug one and replace with the new until all are plugged in. The rest is following the process down plugging and unplugging every anchor and most important the clear hose for your pressure switch must be firmly attached as the original clips and all. after you have dressed the back side thread the old and then the new harness through the gap between the black drain hose and the tub. Tuck both under the machine and replace the back panel and clips, one metal at top and the plastic assembly where the drain hose pass through then the back panel if you feel confident it is correct. On the next step we need to access the bottom of the machine to finish our job. After tilting back and making notes on where each wire goes old and new paying note that only one pump has a pull back cover and that a special allen wrench is needed for the bolt holding the rotor on the stator. It is easier if you have a bright light and a pad to lay on. I think a 1/4 inch allen key fits the special bolt. After you remove the rotor, translucent plastic with magnets inside we need to lower the stator. There is 4 5/16 bolts with a metal plate and then the stator will drop and have a grey shield on the back to protect the poles and RPS assembly. Now do the plugs as we did the top. The last anchor on the RPS end of the harness does not half to be inserted until we stretched and compared our work with what we saw on the old harness. Reverse the procedure, Shield,stator with metal washer in and out, holding this in place with the washer is easier with a 1/2 tsp. of heavy grease to stabilize the metal washer on the outside as you try to insert the bolts to hold it together with the shield and inside metal washer. Once these are finger tight inspect the harness for correct anchoring and proper wiring. Tighten these 5/16 bolts like putting a tire on a Honda Civic.Now the rotor goes back on the spline, do not force just turn until it is easy and slips in about a 1/2 inch. It slips in from the magnets and once it does tighten the bolt firmly. Now set the machine down and put into a rinse spin cycle and test it
Posted on Sep 13, 2008
It sounds like you have a broken motor coupling. This is a very inexpensive and simple repair.
If the washer will fill and drain, but won't agitate or spin, you may have a broken motor coupling. The noise of the motor engaging, lack of agitation and ability to still drain are the usual symptoms. This is a common fail item with this model washer through normal wear and tear. Newer versions of the coupler are more resilient and resist breaking. The following link explains how to replace one:
The motor coupling is located between the drive motor and the transmission and takes the place of a drive belt. They do wear out and can break. The replacement part number is included in the link I provided and is an improved upgraded coupling that is more resilient. It should last longer. If you have questions, or require additional assistance, please let me know. I hope this helps you.
A replacement coupler can be purchased on line at appliancepartspros.com for about $11. Just use the part number in the link and "Search by Part Number" for your search criteria.
Posted on Jul 23, 2009
The cubic feet of the Kenmore washer model 110 heavy duty is 2.8 cubic feet. Measured to the top water line 14.5 inches and using the radius of the tub of 10.375 inches.
Posted on Oct 26, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
May 04, 2016 | Washing Machines
May 20, 2014 | Whirlpool Refrigerators
Jan 18, 2014 | Whirlpool Cabrio WTW6600SBT Top Load...
Aug 10, 2010 | Whirlpool Washing Machines
Mar 09, 2010 | Whirlpool Duet GHW9150P Front Load Washer
Nov 09, 2009 | Whirlpool WTW6400SW Cabrio Washer
Apr 26, 2009 | Kenmore Washing Machines
Nov 22, 2007 | Kenmore 3.2 cu. ft. Plus Top Load Washer
281 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!