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13aj609g766 drive pedal goes to floor, not loose

Replaced lower drive belt, drive pedal goes to floor when runing, barely pulls, model #13aj609g766 troy-bilt bronco about a 2005

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: TROY BILT TRIMMER MODEL TB70SS. HOW DO I REPLACE

Is the pull rope in the front or rear of engine.Thinking that the string is in the front,you must throttle housing and shaft from engine. remove starter housing. There sould be a screw holding the string and spring in place.

Posted on May 07, 2009

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SOURCE: how do I change the belts on a troy bilt tiller

remove plastic belt cover
remove the guard,belt/pulley
work in the right side first:
remove the rigth-side wheel
remove the screws of the bumper
remove 2 screws on bracket/transmission assembly
pull the bracket
install the new belt
reinstall the right side screws and wheel

do the same in the left side
Ps: remove the belt guide, and reverse return spring
http://www.partstree.com/parts/?lc=troy_bilt&mn=21A-634K766+7HP+FRT+Roto-Tiller+(2005)&dn=0079200009

Posted on May 13, 2009

  • 112 Answers

SOURCE: How to install belt on Troy bilt tiller:

With engine OFF If you put belt on engine pully and driven pulley then work the clutch handle you should be able to see how belt goes so it tightens when clutch is worked.

Posted on Jul 16, 2009

  • 112 Answers

SOURCE: I have an older Troy-Bilt Pony Garden Tiller witha

From what I read you need a new rewind clutch and the spring and cord go into the housing. Briggs is easy to fix. contact me at kerryjonjon@yahoo.com and I can send you what you need or you can send it to me and I will repair it very cheap!! Parts are available at almost any small engine parts place.

Posted on Jul 18, 2009

moretons
  • 155 Answers

SOURCE: troy bilt lawn mower bronco belt broke HELP!

hi try this site its called pats small engines

Posted on Jul 26, 2009

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What would cause no power steering or brakes when started one time but then there next start?


Was your brake pedal on the floor or hard to depress? Your chattering might be the serpentine belt system. Remove the belt and test quickly again for noise, you will not have powersteering or cooling or charging systems, but you are just trying to pinpoint your chattering so you dont have to guess. You might want to replace your vacuum valve at power brake booster if your pedal was hard. It is a oneway valve that opens when the car gets turns on and pulls down a vacuum to assist the brake system. Sometimes the stick. If your brake pedal was on the floor, which I doubt at all, do not drive and seek professional help. Maybe your pedal assembly is coming loose and needs repinned.

Feb 20, 2016 | 1999 Oldsmobile Eighty Eight

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How do I adjust the clutch on this tractor, the pedal goes almost completely to the floor and no pressure on pedal


Hi RH:

Did this happen all of a sudden, or did it get slowly worse?
If it's a belt drive, with the motor off, check all of the components for loose bolts, broken pulleys, and don't forget to check the belt for excessive wear. Have someone press the clutch while you watch the linkage to see what it does. It's possible that a pin had sheared and the linkage is disconnected.
Keep us advised.

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My swisher25hp-60 in.cut barely moves going forward


Was it working correctly earlier or is this your initial operation?

According to the product manual for "loss of drive":
1. Bypass linkages in the bypass position
2. Hydro belt worn, damaged, or broken
3. Idler spring loose or broken

1. Make sure that the bypass linkages are in
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Apr 16, 2014 | Swisher Zt2560 Zero Turn Radius 60" Riding...

1 Answer

Why dosent my car advance when i step on the gas pedal


From what you say Daniel, your kickdown cable need's to be adjusted, here's how :

Down at the pressure lever on the front of the trans, loosen off the cable retaining nuts so there is a little slack in the cable.
then start taking the slack out of the cable a little bit at a time;
Rest a long screwdriver on the end of the pressure lever, holding the screwdriver with one hand start opening the throttle with your other hand.

Just at the point the idle RPM barely rises, the pressure lever should just barely move.

Driving test; Going along a level road at 25 mph light throttle, floor the gas pedal.
The trans should downshift to first gear.

repeat the same drive at 28 mph, floor the gas pedal, the trans only downshifts to second gear.

Sep 10, 2012 | 1990 Honda Accord

1 Answer

Blades turn slower when deck is lowered on cub cadet 1042


Had the same problem after winter storage and couldn't find an answer anywhere. I noticed that the drive belt (not the ribbed deck belt) was loose when the deck was down below 4 and tight when it was up higher.
That told me either belt is stretched beyond the belt tensioner's or the tensioner wasn't working right. Found that the tensioner was hard to move and would stick. Greased the zerk on top of the large bolt, worked it back and forth a number of times by pulling on the belt. Problem fixed. But I'm thinking it may be time to order a new tensioner spring and belt anyway. Hope this helps someone down the road. If so pass it on. :) jerseyjimmers@yahoo.com

Jun 16, 2012 | Garden

1 Answer

Drive belt is too loose, already replaced belt and pulley. no drive power, plenty of deck power. Tractor is 8-10 years old, drive pulley portion of the double engine pulley split, so I replaced it and...


I had the same problem with my Craftsman Lawn Tractor. The Drive Belt (which is not adjustable) is only engaged when the Brake Pedal is released (the Brake Pedal is located on the left side of the tractor, near the foot rest on my Tractor).

The Symptoms: My Tractor lacked driving power, and would not go up an incline, but the mower deck was powerful and working fine, even though the Tractor seemed to lack power and moved slower than usual, and would not travel up an incline.

I too, changed the Drive Belt, which initially seemed to help somewhat for a very short period of time, and then the same, lack of power problem, re-appeared again. The belt was not the problem, but only seemed to work somewhat due to the rougher texture of the belt's surface against the pulleys.

I also changed the Plastic Clutch Pulleys that engage the Drive Belt, thinking that they may have been worn down to a point that the Drive Belt could not fully engage with these Pulleys. No Luck.

NO ONE, NOT EVEN SEARS ON-LINE REPAIR ADVICE CENTER HAD A SOLUTION. THIS WAS VERY FRUSTRATING INDEED.

There had to be a solution: After much investigation, I eventually discovered the problem, which actually was easy to solve, and I would like to share this simple solution with others facing this same Frustrating Problem.

The Brake Pedal, when released, causes the Drive Belt Clutch Pulleys to move, and thus Tighten the Drive Belt. When you look under the Tractor, there is a Protective Metal Plate mounted to the Bottom of the Main Tractor Frame which covers the Brake Pedal Shaft and attached Mechanisms. Over time, Grass Builds up in between the Protective Metal Plate and the Tractor's Main Frame Deck, creating a very narrow space between these two pieces of metal.

This area is very difficult to get at, and almost impossible to clean out. Over time, Grass Clippings accumulate in this hidden area, and harden to an almost rock hard clump.

These Hardened Clippings accumulated between the Brake Pedal Mechanism and its fully released metal stop position. Thus, preventing the Brake Pedal Mechanism from moving to its fully engaged position.

I used a long screw driver to break up the compacted grass clippings, and an Air Compressor Blow Gun to break up the packed grass and blow the area clear. It takes awhile to do this cleanup, and is a bit messy, so do it outside, but be patient, and be sure to clean out all the grass that is lodged in this hidden area.

What was happening was that the Packed Grass was so dense that the Brake Pedal could not Fully Release, thus only Partially Engaging the Clutch Pulleys and the Drive Belt, hence the appearance of a loose Drive Belt even when the Brake Pedal was released.

Once the Packed Grass Debris was cleaned out, you will immediately notice the Drive Belt being tighter than it was previously when the Brake Pedal is released, and when you test drive the Tractor you'll find that everything works perfectly, like it was brand new.

Good Luck...
Rayko

Jul 15, 2010 | Craftsman Garden

3 Answers

Hoover wind tunnel won't self propel


There are really two reasons why the self-propelled wouldn't work. It could either be the belts on the vacuum cleaner are stretched or broken. The belts on this model control both the self-propelled transmission, as well as the brush roller. Here's a video that shows you how to inspect the roller brush and belts to make sure that they are installed properly and working. Try this repair first, as this is the easier one to fix.


The other problem if the belts are installed properly that would cause the self-propelled wouldn't work would be the self-propelled actuator arm. There is a cable that starts at the handle of the vacuum, and runs all the way down to the floor head of the vacuum that controls the transmission. As you pull backwards on the handle of the vacuum, the cable pulls this actuator arm backwards, which then turns the wheels backwards, and when you push forward it turns the wheels forward.

The problem with the way it's designed however, is that if you pick up the vacuum cleaner by the handle of the machine rather then using the carrying handle on the back of the vacuum, it causes too much tension on the actuator arm, and will cause the cable to rip right out of the arm.

This is a VERY common problem on this model. To check and see if this part is broken on your vacuum, step on the handle release pedal so that the handle is in the vacuuming position, push the pedal a second time so the machine lays flat on the floor.

Now if you look right behind the height adjustment switch, and the rug / floor switch where the floor part meets the upright part, you should see a cable that connects into the actuator arm. Pull up and down on the handle and look for movement. Is the cable loose with only a nut attached to it, or is it resting in the actuator arm?

Here's a very helpful link that shows you exactly how to replace the actuator arm:
How to Replace the Actuator Arm on Hoover Self-Propelled Windtunnel

If this didn't help you, and the problem is still happening, please just use the add a comment form here on Fixya and let me know that you're still having problems. I'd be honored to go through and do some more advanced diagnosing with you.


I hope this we helpful to you. If you did find this helpful, please be so kind and leave feedback for me. This is why repair professionals like myself continue to come back and give free repair advice, to get the recognition of a job well done.

Thanks so much,

Chris Jones
GoVacuum.com

Apr 17, 2010 | Hoover U6437-900 / U6439-900 Windtunnel...

1 Answer

I changed belts on mower and now it will barely go no matter how hard you press pedel


I know I've said this already, but where the right side of the lower belt goes through the two idlers, it is possible to get that routing backwards which would not properly tighten the belt when you push on the pedal. And, you never said if you removed and replaced the short bolt above the idler assy. That bolt has to come out when replacing that lower belt because the belt has to go on either side of it. Have you pushed on the pedal while watching the idler assy. to see if it tightens the belt?

May 24, 2009 | Troy Garden

1 Answer

When i apply the brakes on my 2004 vw beetle the pedal goes to the floor and barely stops the vehicle there are no leaks and the brake fluid resevoir is full


If there are no leaks and your pedal goes to the floor, it is most likely your master cylinder. DO NOT CONTINUE DRIVING THE VEHICLE!

This is a dangerous condition, and should be repaired immediately.

Apr 19, 2009 | 2000 Volkswagen Beetle

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