Question about Heating & Cooling
Need the user/instruction manual for the Idylis 12000 BTU portable ac jnit, model 416710
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: User manual
I have the same unit, we've used it most days in our office since beginning of April and it's just cut out. I removed the drain plug at the base of the back and drained out about 1 litre of water. It's now working perfectly again. My guess is depending on the humidity it should run about 1 full month before emptying
Hope this helps
Posted on Jun 03, 2009
I had the same problem and found a fairly simple solution. UNPLUG THE UNIT FIRST. All left and right reference below is as view from the BACK of the unit (NOT from the front). Open the right side panel (right as view from the back), by removing six screws (remove screw covers first) and pull down on the panel to remove. Towards the UPPER-back of the unit, there is a cold air evaporator(?)(bunch of tubes and fins) you can only see the edge of it after removing the right panel. Below it is a white plastic drip tray with a hole at the end allowing water to pass down to the lower warm air radiator(?) (another bunch of tubes and fins) to evaporate. If this hole is obstructed, water will over flow and leak. I cleaned out the hole with a vacuum attached to a drinking straw, you might have a better way. After cleaning, I poured a little water through to make sure it drains. There is a lower drip tray at the bottom of the unit which catches the water and you can drain it out the bottom drain hole by unplugging the rubber stopper at the back bottom of the unit. The lower drip tray has a float switch (you can only see it by removing the back panel, which you don't have to do for this procedure) which turns off the unit when the lower tray is full. So, theoretically, even if the evaporation is not working properly, as long as the upper drain hole is not obstructed, there should not be any leakage, because the water will drain into the lower drip tray and turn the unit off when it is full. The upper drain hole obstruction might be causing most of the leakage problem. Also make sure the unit is level left to right. If the left side (left as viewed from the back) is lower than the right side (as view from the back) the water in the upper drip tray might not flow to the drain hole properly and might overflow. You should also vacuum and clean the upper plastis filter screen (pull it out from the top back of the unit). Before closing the right side panel, you might want to vacuum and clean the lower warm air radiator, be careful not to damage the fins. Again before you start any of this, UNPLUG THE UNIT FIRST. This might be easier than packing and sending the over 90 pounds unit to an out of town service center. I understand some service centers might charge $100 for a simple cleaning. Consult a trained technician if you don't have the skill to do this. Do this procedure at your own risk because I am not sure if it might void you warranty. Again UNPLUG THE UNIT FIRST before you start.
Posted on Feb 23, 2009
The compressor is probably going out on either a pressure related or heat related overload. Both are a result of low refrigerant. There may be a low pressure safety swich that protects the compressor. Otherwise it may be an internal thermal overload that is tripping. It resets itself and comes back on. The thermal overload heats up and shuts off the compressor to protect it from too much heat which is gernerated by not enough refrigerant in the system to keep the compressor cool. It may be cheaper to replace the unit than have someone try and fix it. It is pretty time consuming and you cannot try it yourself unless you have an EPA Certificate to buy the refrigerant. Check with your local appliance repair man to see if he will tackle it.
Posted on Jun 05, 2010
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