Question about Amana NGD7200TW Gas Dryer

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Replaced gas solenoids, replaced igniter, contiunity tested the thermal fuse rang out N/C, tested the thermister no contiunity at all, now starting up the dryer the igniter glows the gas lights run for about 2 mins i hear a tic in the top control box mounted on the left upper corner the the gas shuts off, Bad solenoids? just replaced them...or a bigger problem???? Oh i have cleaned every inch of the dryer vent, shroud, housing its freakin clean..WTH

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6ya6ya
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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Illeagle
  • 525 Answers

SOURCE: dryer wont heat

About all that is left to replace is the flame sensor mounted at 9o'clock on burner flame tube, but I would double check your airflow, This is CRUCIAL to the normal operation of the dryer.
Also, a lint filter with an invisible coating from fabric sheets can cause an airflow disruption, try running without clothes and the filter removed.
Tip: Always provide the complete information provided on the manufacturers product information data tag, located on the unit, and not in the user’s manual. This will help you acquire a more accurate and expeditious response to your complaint.


If my assistance helped resolve this issue, please show your appreciation by rating how effective my advice was in resolving this issue.
Thank you,
Dave E. (Illeagle)

"Your satisfaction is my personal reward"

Posted on Jun 23, 2008

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  • 1028 Answers

SOURCE: amana LG4309w gas dryer

may be bad coils on gas valve

Posted on Jul 01, 2008

  • 14 Answers

SOURCE: dryer heating problem

It sounds like an air flow issue. There is a flame sensor on the side of the flame housing. If the venting is not sucking the flame down the tube it will cycle very quickly and never reach the right temp.

Posted on Jul 25, 2008

  • 132 Answers

SOURCE: thermal fuse keeps blowing

Good Afternoon,
Unless there is something restricting the ventilation I think you are having a problem with the heating coil staying on too long. If that is the case, one or more heating sensors are bad. Let me know if this helps and thank you for using FixYa!

Posted on Mar 27, 2009

  • 70 Answers

SOURCE: no heat, dryer exhaust vent cleaned, still no heat, gas line is on

I think you have a gas dryer, and a bad ignitor.

Posted on Apr 23, 2009

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I have kenmore he4. My cloathes dont dry completley. My flame ignites for 20 seconds then goes out. Then this behavior continues about every 5 minutes throughout the cycle. Ad the cycle continues the...


I still say ur safety gas valve and coils are bad SORRY NOT ABLE TO HELP MORE WHEN U CHECK the ceramic igniter it could test good meter wise but yet be bad mechanically which would also do what ur experiencing if it was going bad

Mar 29, 2015 | Kenmore Dryers

1 Answer

Gas dryer igniter replaced, still will not glow


You are on track that is you're issue and the solenoids should be replaced, you seem to be very able but if a video is needed I can send one. Thanks and Good Luck!!!!!!

Jul 06, 2017 | Whirlpool LGR5636L Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Non Glowing Igniter


What solenoids are you referring to?

When you set the timer and heat selector switches on your dryer and press the button [switch] to turn it on, the direction of 120VAC passes through the heat selector switch through the timer switch through the cycling thermostat through the hi-limit switch, through the thermal cut-off fuse to the burner assembly's gas valve.

Simultaneously, as the current is traveling through a path to the 1st gas valve coil, current is also traveling through a path to the flame sensor- and then to the igniter.

The igniter will begin to glow and when it gets hot enough, the flame sensor will detect the heat and switch off. which then diverts current to the second gas valve coils.

The second gas valve coils activate plungers in the gas valve which allows gas to flow out into the burner housing. The igniter still being hot, ignites the gas to a long blue flame.

To maintain the proper air temperature, the heat in the blower housing is monitored by the cycling thermostat. During normal operation, air temperature should be between 120 degrees Fahrenheit and 160 degrees Fahrenheit.

When the air reaches the proper temperature specific to your dryer model, the cycling thermostat will switch off the voltage to the burner assembly.

The hi-limit thermostat and thermal cut-off fuse monitor the drum air temperature. If there is an air flow problem [restriction or total blockage], the hi-limit thermostat may switch off the voltage to prevent damage to the dryer.

Eventually, if the air flow problem [restriction or total blockage] is not corrected, the thermal cut-off fuse will fail (blow) and the dryer won't heat at all.

Check continuity to the following components, thermal cut-off fuse, hi-limit thermostat, igniter, flame sensor, and cycling thermostat. Of course you will take your readings with the power cord of the dryer unplugged from the wall outlet.

You will either disconnect [isolate] any of the wire leads going to their respective components during the test [using a multimeter (analog or digital)]; OR remove each of the components entirely from the dryer to test them.

1.) A good thermal cut-off fuse will have 0 Ohms of resistance. On the other hand, if the needle [on a an analog tester] does not move OR the digital display [on a digital meter] has not changed significantly, there is NO continuity - which means the fuse has burned out and needs to be replaced

2.) A dryer's Hi-Limit Thermostat is activated by hi-temperature changes (between 250 degrees Fahrenheit and 300 degrees Fahrenheit.

A good hi-limit thermostat will have 0 Ohms of resistance at room temperature.

To test the thermostat's response to temperature change, place the component on an electric griddle or skillet. Set the heat on the skillet or griddle to the appropriate temperature according to the temperature rating stamped on the hi-limit thermostat you are testing. If the hi-limit thermostat switches off within 5% of that temperature, the part is functioning properly. However, if the hi-limit thermostat does not switch off OR switches off prematurely, the hi-limit thermostat is faulty and will have to be replaced. [Remember, when the switch turns off at the appropriate temperature level- you should get a high resistance reading to show that the circuit is "open")

3.) Perform the same procedure as step 2 to test the Cycling Thermostat: First at room temperature and then its response to temperature change. The only difference is, the test temperature range will be somewhere between 120-160 degrees Fahrenheit Once again, refer to the temperature rating stamped on the component you are testing- and the 5% tolerance remains the same, too.

4.) The resistance reading for the igniter is between 50 and 400 Ohms of resistance; anything else, it's faulty- toss it and replace it.

5.) You should get a resistance reading of 0 Ohms at the flame sensor-

Flame sensors are tricky though. Flame sensors could still short out and
allow the igniter to glow- but would prevent voltage from reaching the gas coil. For example, the igniter will glow and not turn off and a flame will not be established because there was no voltage at the gas coil to open up and release gas for ignition.

Hope this info helps...I would appreciate a follow-up from you when you resolve this problem- to gain more knowledge and skill.

Thank-you and best wishes on your project

Jul 15, 2013 | Whirlpool LGR3624JQ Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer spins, no ignition or heat. Both gas valve solenoids replaced. No igniter glow


It could be several things. Radiat heat sensor, thermal fuse or safety fuse. Here is a link that should help troubleshooting the faulty part Troubleshooting a gas dryer

Oct 14, 2010 | Maytag PYG2300A Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Dryer not heating, replaced igniter, told by repairmen to check inline fuse but we cannot find it, model LGR7620LW0, also curious if flame sensor could be defective


The first thing to look at would be the thermal fuse. It is usually mounted on the exhaust duct at rear of dryer. It's about one inch long. You can test it for continuity with a multimeter. If it has no continuity, it is bad and needs replaced. If the ignitor is glowing, but the gas isn't igniting, I would look next at the gas valve coils. They are right above the gas valves. They are solenoids that, when energized, open the gas valves. If the thermal fuse is not the problem, then I would look at the coils. It is hard to test them, so it is best to replace both (all) of them at the same time. Hope this helped and best wishes.

Jul 29, 2009 | Dryers

1 Answer

Gas shuts off/flame off w/in minutes of starting maytag gas dryer


If you did all the things listed, there are only 2 left that will cause the problem. The cycle thermostat located on the exhaust vent and possibly poor airflow. Remove the connecting vent from the rear and try a timed load. If it works repair the vent exhaust problem. Most cycle thermostats include a thermister that could also be defective causing the short cycle. The flame sensor and gas valve coils would have been the number 1 diagnosis. I would need a model number to more specific.

Jun 14, 2009 | Maytag Dryers

1 Answer

No heat


Parts that must be tested are igniter, gas valve and thermal fuse.

If there is no spark and fuse is good then the igniter must be replaced. Thermal fuse is tested using a multimeter.
If it is none of the above then usually the valve is faulty.


Apr 18, 2009 | Kenmore 73952 Gas Dryer

1 Answer

Magic chef oven igniter will not glow.


the gas vavle..check for contiunity..just follow oven ignitor wire down ..onthejob

Jan 15, 2009 | Magic Chef 31000 Gas Kitchen Range

2 Answers

No second ignition


still suspect coils they have been known to not pull in on restart especially after a warm up if sensor bad probably wouldn't start first time both coils come in a kit replace both

May 22, 2008 | Kenmore 74602 Gas Dryer

1 Answer

No second ignition


replace the solenoid coils and it will work.

May 22, 2008 | Kenmore 74602 Gas Dryer

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