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Asus P2L97 wiring diagram?

Just bought an ATX AX series computer case with components. Someone started a build but didn't finish. It has a P2L97 rev. 2.04 motherboard with an intel pentium 2 processor. Looks like everything is plugged into the power supply but nothing else is plugged into the motherboard. I can find similar wiring diagrams (rev 1 and 1.05) and have tried changing the address to fit the revision with no luck. Any help will be appreciated.

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From the motherboard to Cabinet, there are two connections, one goes to the power on and other to reset. Try changing power key by reset to check the problem is not with the key !! Thanks, Rajesh Deodhar

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This may work for you,.. for the most part the Gigabyte motherboard model number is the same... apart from the AE at the end.
( Which could very well stand for Acer Electronics )
Click Here .

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SOURCE: Replacing Asus CUV4x Motherboard with Asus p5vd2-vm-se motherboard

Hi eibral2345, sorry but there is no chance the motherboard, Asus P5VD2-VM-SE will run the Samsung memory. It’s the old style 3.3V PC133/100 SDRAM. The new Asus motherboard,
P5VD2-VM-SE uses Single-Channel DDR2 - 667MNz or 533MHz memory. Here is a link to the specs of the Asus CUV4X:
Here are the specs for the Asus P5VD2-VM-SE MB:

Will the new Asus board fit in your case? It should!
The larger measurement is the height of the board.
The Height + Width of the new board is smaller than the older board.

Have more questions?
Good luck eibral2345!

Posted on Sep 26, 2008

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My new build, asus MB and Diablotek PS, the leads are too short to reach cpu.atx,can I lengthen them,?

This is risky. You have new MOBO and want to cheat on the PSU? I would not splice anything. IF you cannot get a jumper set that fits the two connections, get another PSU or change case arrangement, style or psu.

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Turn on my dell green light comes on and begins to open windows xp before it compltety opens it shuts down and the yellow light starts flashing , I turn off the computer and and let it set for a few...

Power Supply is bad Ron.

Electrolytic Capacitors inside the Power Supply are breaking down.

To wit;

Since you didn't state the model number, I'll just choose one for an example, and the Troubleshooting Tools and Utilities information;

Took you the 'Long way' to show you the steps in finding troubleshooting information. May help you in the future.

"Blinking Yellow - A power supply or system board failure has occurred"

Now about Electrolytic Capacitors;

The Electrolytic Capacitors used on your motherboard, (Unless some are solid Polymer capacitors), are Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitors.

A basic example,

Basic construction of a Radial Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor:

A) The case is a thin aluminum cylindrical shape. Looks like an aluminum 'Coca-Cola' can with no top, or bottom.

Wrapped with a plastic sleeve.

B) The top is a flat thin aluminum round disk, and has a shape etched partway into it. Usually a lK or X.
This is the Vent Cover.

C) The bottom is a flat synthetic rubber disk, and is called the Bung.
The two leads of the capacitor come through the Bung.

D) Inside the case of the capacitor are three strips;
1) One strip is thin aluminum metal, and is called the Conducting Strip. It has the Positive ( + ) lead attached to it. (Lead - think wire)

2) The second strip is also thin aluminum metal, but has a non-conducting medium applied to it.
It is the Non-Conducting Strip, and has the Negative lead attached to it.

3) The last strip is a paper-like strip, and is soaked with Electrolytic Paste.

The paper soaked strip is laid in-between the two metal strips, and all three are rolled up tightly.
(In reality there are many layers of these strips)

When an Electrolytic Capacitor starts to fail, the Electrolytic Paste develops a gas inside the capacitor. Hydrogen Gas.
The gas expands, and starts pushing Electrolytic Paste out of the capacitor.

Either the lK or X of the Vent Cover will pop open, and paste will ooze out,

Paste will ooze out of the seal area, around the outside edge of the Vent Cover,

One side of the Bung at the bottom of the capacitor will be pushed out, and paste will ooze out.

So much paste loss, and the capacitor operates at a weakened state.
TOO much paste loss, and the capacitor fails.

A capacitor is designed to slowly build up a charge, then release it all at once.
Older camera designs use capacitors for their flash unit.

Another way of explaining, although crude, is a large swimming pool is slowly filled with water by a garden hose, then one wall of the pool is taken down all at once.

This is why a Power Supply can start to work, then fail.
Some of the capacitors inside are failing.

Just thought it would be better than stating, "Replace your Power Supply"

Do I recommend trying to repair the Power Supply?
Dangerous (As in could KILL you), voltages are inside, even with the Power Supply unplugged from power, and for weeks, months, and over a year, after being unplugged from power.

Also clean the inside of the computer out with a can, or two of compressed air for computers. Computer unplugged from power, AND Anti-Static Precautions -> FOLLOWED.

The Power Supply in your computer is an SMPS.
Switched-Mode Power Supply
The two cooling components for the SMPS are Heatsinks, and a small internal Fan,

The Heatsink/s are shown in-between the letters B and C, and
C and D.
Finned aluminum 'blocks' connected together in a vertical line.
(Vertical line in the photo)

A Heatsink absorbs heat from whatever object it is placed against, and the fins of the Heatsink radiate the heat away.
The small internal fan helps carry heat away from the fins.

When in-between the fins, and around the fins of the Heatsink, are clogged with 'Gunk', and the Fan's blades, center hub, and surrounding cage (Shroud), are clogged with 'Gunk', the cooling capacity drops tremendously.

Just takes a light coat of 'Gunk'.
('Gunk' = Dirt, dust, hair, lint, etc)

Heat = Wasted Energy
The Power Supply tries to keep up with the call for power, but eventually cannot, and components inside start to fail.

For additional questions please post in a Comment.


[One more thing. Dell used to be a proprietary computer manufacturer. This means they wanted THEIR parts used in THEIR computers.

One design change they had made, was to change the standard pinout of the ATX main power cable, coming from the Power Supply.

Had the Power Supply manufacturer design, and make Power Supply's to their (Dell) ATX main power cable designation.

They also had the motherboard manufacturer, change the ATX main power cable connector pinout, on the motherboard.

Examples of both types of ATX main power cables that are used,

1) 20-pin ATX main power cable,

2) 24-pin ATX main power cable,

1) Orange wires are 3.3 Volts. (DC)
2) Red wires are 5 Volts. (DC)
3) Yellow wires are 12 Volts. (DC)
ALL Black wires are Ground wires.

You can see the Standard pinouts for the wires above in the links.

USING the Lock on the side of the ATX main power cable's connector, use it to orient the connector, and follow the pinout of those wires.

Are they the same as the ones in the links?

People with these older types of Dell computers in the past, were replacing the Power Supply, BUT not buying from Dell.
This means they bought aftermarket Power Supply's.

Wiring pinout for ATX main power cable did Not match.
MANY people burned out their computers.
'Smoked' the motherboard, Processor, Ram Memory, Harddrive, and a graphics card IF used.

Yes. People were SO happy! (?)
Dell changed pretty quickly.
Check your ATX main power cable.

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Intel D945GZ motherboard? Got it. Now what the world are you talking about? A Chassis Intrusion Switch? What desktop computer is it in? Computer manufacturer name, and Model Number. Post back in a Comment.

Wait a minute. Won't boot, or the Power Supply doesn't start up?
Power Supply doesn't start up;

1) You have a bad ATX power on switch
2) You didn't connect the ATX power on switch to the correct pins, on the Front Panel header.
3) You have a bad Power Supply

Computer doesn't boot up;
1) You didn't follow Anti-Static Precautions
2) You didn't apply Thermal Paste to the top of the Processor, before you put the Heatsink on.
3) You didn't connect the 4-pin ATX +12 Volt power cable.
Power for the Processor. (No processor, no computer)

4) You didn't use the Installation Disk (CD) that came with the motherboard. (Has the DRIVERS)
5) Is this a replacement motherboard for a bad one?
SAME motherboard, or a different one?

Because when Windows is installed on a computer, (Harddrive, actually), it assigns hash values to certain major hardware components.

Components such as;
1) Processor
2) Motherboard chipset
3) BIOS program, version, and date
4) Harddrive
5) Graphics chipset. (Whether Integrated Graphics, or a graphics card)

Change any two of these components, and Windows will think it is being stolen.
Microsoft User's License states, "ONE Genuine copy of Windows per ONE computer "

[ Microsoft makes one Master disk. From it all GENUINE copies are made, and sold to the consumer ]

If you are lucky, the Windows activation screen may come up. Windows will want to be activated again. (Activated, not Registered)
Doesn't happen all the time, though.

Using a brand new genuine copy of Windows? Make sure you go into BIOS Setup, and in Boot Order, set the first boot device to CDROM.

The LED light on the motherboard indicates it HAS power.

Motherboard Manual for the Intel D945GCZ mobo. (MOtherBOard),

(GHz stands for GigaHertz.
Giga = approximately 1 Billion.
Hertz stands for Cycles per Second.
1GHz = approximately 1 Billion Cycles per Second.
It refers to Frequency Rate. For laymen frequency rate = 'Speed')

Plus, it isn't new. It is NOS. New Old Stock.
Means it could be a bad motherboard, even if it has never been used.

{Computer technology follows Moore's Law,

What is new technology today may be old tomorrow }

Blue -> English Product Guide [PDF]

Let me know if you think there is a Chassis Intrusion Switch.
It will operate one of two ways;

1) When the cover is removed, the switch is open. No connection of the two wires is present. Remove the switch, put a piece of heat shrink tubing over one wire, and slide it back out of the way.

Twist the two wires together with an Electrician's knot, solder them, slide the heat shrink tubing over the connection, use heat to shrink the heat shrink tubing.

2) When the cover is removed, the switch is closed. The wires are grounded out. Remove the switch. Cut the exposed bare wire off, leaving just the insulation. Put a wire nut on it. Do the same for the other wire.

For additional questions please post in a Comment.

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Looking for wiring diagram

The information you need is in the pdf below. Look at page 1-26 in particular.

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Im building a computer in school and the speaker that runs during POST connector but i have no ihad (nor my teacher) as to where it goes on my asus M68MT-S2P diagrams or pictures would help . thanks

Hi there,


Sir you posted a ASUS M68MT-S2P, there is no such model, the image above is a Gigabyte M68MT-S2P. all you have to do is plug your system speaker and follow the polarity.
The system reports system startup status by issuing a beep code. One single short beep will be heard if no problem is detected at system startup. If a problem is detected, the BIOS may issue beeps in different patterns to indicate the problem.

Hopefully this information helps.
Thank you for using FixYa.

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I have bought 2 Biostar N68S motherboards for HTPC builds. Both of them have the same CPU and RAM. Neither of them will show any VGA output, despite being hooked up to different screens. The other...

The motherboard has a AM2+/AM3 socket, and the processor is AM2, while there is some compatibility between AM2+ and AM2 sockets, it is not guaranteed, so this could very likely be your issue.

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Dell Asus M2N61-AX MB front panel connector Nix ATX Gaming case

I assume you mean the HDD,reset,on switch etc where they plug onto the mobo.

Most mobos are labelled on the board but you will need good eyesight to read. They are labelled HDD, RESET, SPEAKER etc.

If not simply look up mobo manual from vendors site. You will need the DELL serial / part number from the old unit though.

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Wont fit the backport of the case

Today, the cases come with a 'generic' back port that pops out for specific motherboards. The Asus board should have come with a metal plate that replaces the case's version, and lines up the ports.

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Asus K8N-LR power problem

This is a problem within your ATX power supply . Better to get it repaired or replaced , otherwise each switch-on surge would damage your comp components eventually .

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