Question about Husqvarna 562xp Auto Tune 24" Chainsaw

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562xp backfire loss power

562xp ran hot into 36inch log made one pop/back fire then loss power until held level and no pressure cut ok for minete and did backfire and pop again a loss of power

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There were some issues with the fuel hose becoming kinked under heavy load, there is a later hose to stop this happening, the hose has a grommet which pulls into a recess in the plate under the carb, you can try removing it from the recess which gives it less bend as it comes up to the carb.

Posted on Jul 14, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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When driving my 1997 Audi A 4 1.8t there is a loss of power around 3000 rpm, what could be causing the issue?


run the fault codes and look for a problem area in the vane actuator of the turbo
it could be a sensor problem or a MAP sensor problem
this is indicated by the pressures being generated or not generated by a turbo generating pressure from the throttle opening on acceleration or held at constant speed

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Spitting sputering back fire power loss running hot


Hi Anonymous, popping, coughing, spitting, or backfiring through the carburator or induction module is usually caused by air getting sucked in combustion chamber do bad intake seals leaking. Leaking exhaust gaskets can also be suspect. Remove air cleaner and backing plate, while engine is idling spray WD-40 or Brake Kleen around intake manifold to head area, if RPM's increase you have an intake leak and seals need to be replaced, also spark plugs will be burning whiter than normal. Also the usual suspects are:
1. Severely discharged or damaged battery.
2. Loose, corroded or broken battery cable.
3. Alternator not charging or below normal rates.
4. Failed ignition coil, ignition/electronic module.
5. Failed CKP, CPS, CMP, MAP, TPS, or BAS sensor.
6. Faulty ignition switch.
7. Water or dirt in fuel system, carburetor or filter.
8. Fuel tank vent system plugged or gas cap not venting.
9. Fuel tank empty.
10. Fuel valve vacuum line broken or carburator vent line closed off.
11. Restricted, blocked or kinked fuel line.
12. Failed fuel pump, pressure regulator and or fuel injectors.
For a prime suspect please visit website below and good luck:http://www.harley-davidsonforums.com/forums/electrical/4352-big-twin-carb-efi-dtc-intructions-codes.html

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I have a 1994 mercury sable station wagon. while sitting at a stop light the engine died. when we finally got it restarted it began to back fire alot. Then all of a sudden it began working fine and ran...


A solution is hard to give with out looking at and doing some testing but advise and help i can do, this sounds like a lack of fuel pressure, it died out and was hard to restart and backfiring from loss of fuel, this sounds to me like a fuel pump that is on the way out,

The first thing would be to have a fuel pressure gauge connected to fuel rail so that you can watch the pressure as you drive and see if you loose pressure when car begins to die out or back fire. good day

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Washer runs but the water does not turn off, THe waterm hot and cold just run until I cut it off manually.


while machine is filling turn of power if the water is still entering machine you have a mechanical fault water valve hot or cold needs replacing if water stops when power turned of you ave an electrical or control problem check water level hose from tub to level switch for damage or perishing if ok check water level switch blow into it see if it clicks if not replace also while blowing hold pressure to see if the diaphragm in the pressure switch is not perished keep me informed

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Hard starting,may run ok until it gets warmed up,ticking,backfire


either bad head gaskets,oil pump is bad,start with simple things change oil & filter start car listen to see if you have an air leak around intake and or heads hook an oil compression tester up and see if oil is pumping properly if not could be a faulty oil pump

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Sluggish loss of power and popping noises from engine


Clean the distributer cap in the inside, it has water in it thus causing all the noises and the back fire.

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1997 chevy cheyenne c2500...i get a popping noise when i press the accelerator...help meeeeee please...197,000miles i frustrated


Does it idle smooth or rough? Steady loping miss at idle? Loses power as rpm's increase? I'm a shadetree mechanic, and even though your engine is a vortec, it still uses these parts, so you may find this useful.

Make sure your plug wires are good, start it after dark, raise the hood, in darkness you should see tiny sparks jumping from the wires if they are bad.

Most likely cause of my intake backfiring was #5 & #7 plug wires switched. Bad plug wires can also short onto each other and cause the wrong cylinder to fire while it's intake valve is still open, igniting back into the intake. 350 chevy firing order is 18436572. #5 & #7 are on the driver side, the closest to the back. #7 fires right after #5, by switching them I had caused #5 to fire too late / #7 too early hitting the accelerator causes the spark timing to advance, firing #7 while the intake valve was still closing, sending flame up into the raw fuel charged intake, causing the explosion or POP under the hood. The symptom I had was rough idle, stumbling / popping on acceleration, which got much worse as it warmed up.

OTHER PROBLEMS TO LOOK AT:
replace fuel filter, and have a mechanic check the fuel pressure. He can tell you whether the pressure regulator or the fuel pump is bad. Low fuel pressure will lead to engine damage as you'll see below. It causes the combustion gases to run too hot, warping valves.

I have a 95 c2500 with 350 Throttle body injection(not vortec), the problem I had was multiple. The timing chain was extremely worn out, causing erratic timing. The fuel pump was bad( causing loss of power as rpm increased)( letting that continue for 6 mos caused several intake and exhaust valves to overheat, warp and burn). The Throttle position sensor was bad, causing transmission shifting / slamming at odd rpms, and possibly contributing to the popping(backfiring up through the intake). The temp sensor on the intake was bad(cold temp fuel mixture control), and the oxygen sensor on the exhaust pipe had the wires pulled out of it(warm temp fuel mixture control). The spark control module also was bad(causes misfires). Later I also had 2 spark plug wires that were on the wrong plugs(the main cause of the intake backfiring). It is an old work truck, 190,000 miles, many parts/gallons of sweat later, now it runs strong. These motors are worth repairing, as long as the oil-pressure is good and the compression is still decent. I've had 3 vehicles before this one, same motor, great mileage, power and reliability. I've heard the vortecs are even better, as long as the oil gets changed regularly.

Start cheap. Try each item, if that is not it, go to the next( or spend a hundred or so on a full diagnostic by a well established mechanic(not a tire installer who just started his ASE studies. good engine diagnosis requires years of experience and teardowns to be able to determine the causes while running) :
1.) While engine is running in park, use plastic pliers(shock protection, be careful!!!) to remove and reconnect a plug wire at the coil. Listen for a change in the idle speed and smoothness. Move to the next if you hear a change, this means that that plug and wire are working properly(disconnecting them causes the motor to idle up, run rougher). If unplugging them doesn't cause a change: That wire or plug is likely bad. take both to an autoparts store to be tested. Replace the problem part, if that does not fix a miss, see #2 below.
2.) Do a cylinder compression test, to see if you have any valve issues. I bought a $40 compression tester kit. It takes about an hour, but it will tell you alot about the engines health. Mine had a range of 140-170 psi, except for #1( 0 psi, cracked and torched valve) and #7(120 psi, warped valve), I had to pull the intake and that head off for replacement valves(got lucky, cast iron head was not warped)
3.)pull, test(a mechanic can do this) and if necessary replace the throttle position sensor($23 part on tbi motors). This tells the computer how much gas pedal you are using. If it is bad, you fuel mixture will be erratic and can cause misfires, and your transmission may be shifting weird / hard.
4.) Replace the spark plugs with original AC Delco, use good wires, cap and rotor. Cheaper parts can have too much resitance to electric flow, causing poor running. I switched from autolite platinums--> to Delco = huge difference.
5.) If the timing chain is original. It is time, trust me. Mine had so much slop, I was amazed it had not jumped a tooth. This will cause poor power / erratic idle / possible backfiring if really advancing / retarding ignition. Unless you are a mechanic, this is not recommended for do it yourself. The upper radiator housing, fan, waterpump, timing cover and oil-pan have to be dropped and regasketed afterwards. Hours of fun.

my truck sequence of events:
Bought spring '08, noticed poor power / slight miss, replaced plugs wires cap rotor, repaired rear brake line rust-out, new tires, mechanic replaced fuel filter, advised fuel pump was not putting out enough pressure, tried ignoring and drove till fall--> developed REALLY severe miss( no intake backfiring), barely made it home.

Starting this spring: Compression test --> valve issues, removed all front engine components(alt, P.S.(pressed on pulley will need a puller kit to remove)), intake manifold and driverside cylinderhead(found a hole in #1 exhaust valve big enough to slide pencil through), had 4 valves replaced at machine shop, reassembled engine, dropped gastank, replaced fuelpump assembly and fuel-lines(rusted), replaced oxy sensor on exhaust manifold, started motor and set timing(while computer timing wire was disconnected under dashboard), ran rough / intake backfiring upon any acceleration, erratic timing, replaced timing chain = steady timing, still ran rough/backfire though, replaced temp sensor(no change), tested barometric pressure module = ok, replaced distributor(unnecessary), replaced throttle position sensor = ran a little better/still backfiring/ transmission problem fixed too, ran resistance check on wires with ohmmeter-->found #5 & #7 plug wires were switched, fixed that, ran great, replaced exaust system behind the converter, sounds great / runs great / lesson learned. If a mechanic advises a repair, get a second opinion... but don't ignore it, it creates bigger problems, like torched valves.
Good luck.

Apr 28, 2009 | 1995 Chevrolet C2500

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