Question about Kenmore Washing Machines
Filled a load of whites and let soak overnight now it will not start up has completly stopped working..and suggestions on what it could be maybe the lid switch or timer?
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: Kenmore Series 70 won't spin
Sounds like you have got a basket drive and sub-pack issue. These are very hard to change out because it requires you to remove the inner basket, motor, transmission, agitator, pump, etc. The part number for these are:
Clutch Kit (Sub-Pack): 285785
Basket Drive/Spin Tube: 285792
If you think your up to the task, let me know and will send you some general info on getting the stuff in and out. Good Luck!!!!
Posted on Feb 03, 2008
Ok folks to change the lid switch on these and many top loading Whirlpool, Maytag, Kenmore, etc is quite easy.
Steps to replace the lid switch:
1. Remove unit from AC.
2. Remove the loading door from the unit, or using some duct tape tape it closed.
3. Using a small flat bladed screwdriver find the 2 release catches on the front of the unit between the top cover and front panel. These are just snap claps to hold the top cover down. To release the top you will need to compress the latch using the screwdriver. Start with one side, then the other. Once you have released both clips the lid will lift up just like the hood of your car.
4. You will now be able to remove the lid switch from the unit.
5. Install the new switch and close the hood of the unit.
6. Test the repair by running the unit though a complete cycle.
A great place to order the replacement part for the unit is:
They ship same day on orders placed before 3pm EST. Overnight shipping is available, however I usually opt for the 2-3 day ground shipping and save the money.
If this switch replacement does not take care of the problem, you might need to replace the control board located under the front panel. This replacement is also very easy and takes about 10 min from start to finish.
Hope this helps everyone. Cheers,
Posted on Oct 21, 2008
SOURCE: washer won't start up
You could have a bad timer, but most commonly the problem is a much simpler on. A washer that fills and doesn't do anything, or stops right after the wash cycle and then does not advance to the rinse cycle and drain is commonly caused by a lid switch malfunction. The lid switch is usually mounted under the washer top casing, on the right hand side on most top load models. It is activated by a plastic piece on the lid (called a "Lid Strike") through a small hole on the rim of the wash tub opening. In many cases the lid strike breaks off the lid, or the lid switch becomes loose and no longer makes contact. Inspect the lid to make sure the lid strike is still intact, and then inspect the mounting screws (adjacent to the small opening on the wash tub rim) and make sure they are snug. If you determine the switch to be defective, the following link explains how to replace one:
If the switch requires replacement, a new one can be purchased on line at searspartsdirect.com, pcappliancerepair.com, repairclinic.com, appliancepartspros.com. Just use your model number as your search criteria. All these sites offer competitive pricing, so shop all them for the best price. If you still need assistance, please contact me and let me know. If my diagnosis is not correct, please post back and elaborate a bit more so I can assist you further. If your washer is not configured this way, or if you still have questions, please let me know.
Posted on Jun 22, 2009
Hello Friend, Your solution is very simple. You need to replace the motor coupler. It's easy to replace the motor coupler on your machine. First, remove the two screws that hold control panel in place and tilt back exposing the two metal clips that hold the cabinet in place. You will see some wires plugged into the cabinet, just unplug them. There are two clips, one on each side. Just pop these clips off and lift cabinet slightly from back and tilt forward. At this point you will be able to completely remove the cabinet. Once you have cabinet removed just set it aside. Now, just lay the washer on it's back. At this point you will see the water pump, motor, and transmission. Remove the pump by snapping off the two spring clips. The pump will slide right off the motor shaft. Now, remove the two screws that hold the two spring clips attached to motor. Unplug all the wires etc. and then snap the metal clips off motor. Lift motor straight up, it should slide right off. Now you will see the motor coupler. Half of the coupler is on the transmission shaft and the other half is on the motor shaft. There is a rubber center connector ring that connects the two together. Just remove the old coupler pieces by prying under them with slotted screwdriver and replace with new ones. Re-assymble the washer and the problem you are encountering should be solved. Happy to help, Tim.
Posted on Jun 25, 2009
First, see the Sears Parts site for your washer:
Also see the Whirlpool / Kenmore service manual.
Initial thoughts are a worn/broken motor coupler.
See the following for how to get to it and check it.
Kenmore / Whirlpool top load, direct drive washers use a "Motor Coupler" between the motor and transmission.
It's used as a fail safe device and consists of three parts.
Two of the parts are the same, plastic units with three prongs that fit on one of the motor output shafts and the other on the transmission input shaft. Between them is a rubber piece with six holes.
It's possible that the prongs have broken and the humming that you hear is the pieces rubbing against the center rubber piece.
The power from the motor is transmitted through the rubber piece to the transmission.
The other shaft on the motor directly drives the pump.
If the motor coupler is broken, or worn, the motor may not be able to send full power to the transmission for agitating or spinning.
See the following for how to remove the cabinet, pump, motor and motor mounting plate to inspect and replace the motor coupler.
If the coupler looks damaged, it's a relatively easy fix.
Pry the plastic pieces from the motor and transmission. Some people use a claw hammer but I've found that using a small (6 inch) pry bar works well.
Carefully fit the plastic pieces over the motor and transmission shafts and press them in place (Use a 1/2" of larger socket to put pressure equally around the pieces.
Put the rubber piece on the transmission plastic piece.
Replace the motor mounting plate.
Carefully line up the plastic prongs on the motor based plastic piece to the three un-used holes in the rubber piece. If they don't line up right, the coupler could be damaged.
Mount the motor, don't forget the two screws, put the pump back on the motor and use its' clips.
Put the cabinet back on, don't forget to plug the lid switch back in and re-mount the console.
Posted on Jan 10, 2010
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