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I've a Beko 7.4 frost free tall freezer model TZDA 627 F. I just got ice cream out which is soft. I see a red light flashing and the temp said 1. I opened the door and checked and saw the freezer temp knob has I In been turned lower (but not off). I felt the condenser bottom back and it is on and quite warm. I have removed all drawer to check for any ice, and there is none. I pressed the quick freeze button and it beeped and then said

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SOURCE: Model E372b Fisher & Pykel - Beeps with Fridge Door closed periodically-Higest shelves warm lower down freezes things

First I would like to say thanks for all the information on the Fisher-Paykel active smart fridge freezer problems. This was a lot more useful than their customer support help line… After a week of hanging on for ten minutes without any answer I had a look on the net and found your site with descriptions of similar problems so I decided to investigate further
I have a Fisher Paykel fridge freezer (model 402B in the UK) about three years old. Although it didn’t seem to be as cold as normal, the first sign of a serious problem was when it started making a rattling or knocking noise from the freezer compartment. Looking inside it was obviously iced up solid and the noise was probably the fan catching the ice. So first thing I decided to try was a days de icing after which everything seemed ok except the green indicator light was now flashing about once every second.
Two weeks later it was badly iced up again so the problem was still there. At first I suspected the fans (which I could never see actually working). I disconnected one and tried it with a 6v torch battery and it spun ok. It was then I realised what was happening - the fans cut out whenever the door is opened so they are always stopped if you look inside.
A closer look at the aluminium heat exchanger(behind the plastic panel at the back of the freezer section) showed there was some kind of heater element clipped along the bottom with feed wires at either side. Obviousely part of the automatic de icing systems. It’s a bit tricky but there an electrical connector plug at the top and disconnecting this enables you to unclip the element and remove it (except that in this case one wire had been trapped at the wrong side of the coolant pipes when they had been fitted so it had to be snipped to get it out). Once out a circuit test showed there was no circuit through the element. So cutting into the two shrouded connections at each end of the element revealed some little components inside which I now know are “Thermal fuses”. One of these had “Blown”. There was a number on the side: - DF 72S which Google revealed is a thermal fuse set at 72 degrees. Although these are listed as spares in all sorts of places non was convenient to the UK. So I found a similar component at Maplins Electronics (R14) set at 92 degrees for just 69p! The reasoning being that the other thermal DF 72S fuse was still ok and the slightly higher use temp at the other end would still blow before anything melted!
By the way you cannot solder these things in so its best to use miniature screwed “block” connectors plus a good covering with insulation tape.
After putting it all back together its now been working for a month and no ice build up… The green light did still flash for a while but went out once the temperature dropped too normal freezing level.

Total cost of replacement parts was under £1 but it took a bit of time find the problem.

Posted on May 12, 2008

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