Brushes removing worn brushes

Hi Gary,

Not sure what brand you have but your saw probably has worn out brushes. The brushes are made of graphite and make electrical contact with the commutator of the motor. If they are worn out completely the spring that holds the brush (made of steel) is touching the commutator and that would cause sparks to be thrown off like a grinder. If you can, remove the brushes to see if they are worn out. If so, order and install new ones.

The bad sparking can be several different things. The bad sparking at contact points or burned contracts on the switch can be caused by a faulty phase control or wrong wiring. Open the mixer, check wiring, if that is correct remove an replace the phase control board.
If the bad sparking is at the motor brushes this can be caused by worn motor brushes, rough commutator, faulty armature or shorted motor field. First remove the brushes and check that they are not worn to less that 5/16'. Replace with new brushes if excessively worn. If Brushes are fine remove and check armature. you will most likely have to replace the motor/armature assembly.
Thank you,
Colleen
MendingShed.com
800-339-9297

Most likely this means you have a belt problem, or the brushes have worn out. If you are confident, UNPLUG the machine, and remove the back cover. It will be obvious if the belt has come off, and you may be able to re-instal the old one, or buy a new one.
Worn motor brushes will be less obvious, but if you're reasonably confident with electronics, you could remove the motor, and inspect the brushes, or get someone else to.

The worn out brush could certainley cause the trip to operate.
The best way to remove motor is to lay washer on it's side, and undo the 2 screws that hold the motor in place, then lever back off the mounts.
Remove the rear cover first and drive belt.
Hope this is if some help to you .
Please rate my solution.
Thankyou.

You need to know that very seldom will new carbon brushes alone `FIX`a motor in todays vacuums as they are higher RPM than those of 30 years ago.
On a salvageable motor a good rebuild procedure will generally include repacking bearings, cleaning suction fans and reseating new brushes with an abrasive seating stone at low speed with a motor run in device with variable voltage

That said, I have not done a HENRY in years but it likely will contain a generic AMTEK Lamb type motor as it is sold as more durable vac.
On a traditional vac motor, carbon brushes are removed by releasing a clamp over the brush. The brush holder will have either a flag terminal on it where the wiring will disconnect from the side, or a flat flag terminal which slides into a pocket on the carbon brush housing.
. If you are going to the trouble of replacing the brushes, remove and inspect the old ones for wear and chipping. Also inspect the commutator surface on the motor where the brushes contact. If there are any curved gaps between segments, or if the com is worn like an apple core , you need a motor complete.
If the motor has simply worn to the point where a brush has stuck or worn to nothing, you may be bale to reseat the new brushes, however any evidednce of BLUE sparks or noise is not a good sign . Best of luck. Post back if you need more help

hi there......this problem is usually related to badly worn brushes in the motor...a quick way to check this is.....(1) remove the machine from its position...bringing it foward enough to tilt it back sufficiently allowing you access to the botom of the machine...(2) insect the motor for signs of black carbon dust...indicating brush ware....gently tap the motor with a small hammer...or suitable object....stand the machine uright again...select spin....run machine....if all is ok machine will run indicating a set of replacement carbon brushes are required....failure to run indicates brushes very badly worn and possibility of damaged motor...remove the rear panel of the machine...remove the belt...remove the motor for inspection..of armature and brushes...any burn or discolouring marks on the copper brush track...indicates a failed motor..which will require replacing....

regards Sir Galahad

please clarify what you mean?
Do you mean motor bearings or brush roll bearings?
brush roll bearings can be adjusted to lower the brush closer to the carpet when worn.
to do this remove the front brush assembly, there is usually a sticker below the belt hole showing RED = POSITION 1 HIGHEST (ie a new brush roll)
GREEN = POSITION 2 MIDDLE (brush part worn)
BLACK = POSITION 3 LOWEST (brush fully worn)
At each side of this there are 2 clips unlock these and remove the bottom cover.
Release the belt tension by rotating the belt release at the front.
Before removing the brush roll, at each end of the brush roll there is a grey plastic bearing carrier (Square at the ends) MARK this with a pen or marker just so you know the original position, also look closely for the coloured markings as indicated above or numbering 1,2 or 3.
If RED or "1" is showing you need to remove the brush roll by pulling it out and rotate the endcaps to Green or "2" and re-insert the brush roll, If Green or "2" is showing then rotate the endcaps to Black or "3" and re-insert.
If Black or "3" is showing then the brush roll is worn and cannot be adjusted any more, fit a new brush roll and insert with RED or "1" showing.
To re-attach the belt, move the belt to the middle of the roll and rotate the belt knob at the front ensuring the belt engages with the hook on the inside.

hi Many universal motor malfunctions are caused by wearing down of the carbon brushes, the soft blocks of carbon that complete the electrical contact to the motor's commutator. When these brushes become worn, the motor will spark, and electrical contact may be incomplete.try this
Step 1: To sight-check the carbon brushes, remove the screws that hold the brushes and brush springs into the brush holders at the sides of the commutator. The screws will pop out of the screw holes; turn the motor over to tap out the brushes. The ends of the brushes should be curved to fit the commutator; if they're worn down, new brushes are needed.
Step 2: To check carbon brushes with a continuity tester, remove the motor lead wires from the circuit. Tag the wires as you disconnect them so that you'll be able to reconnect them properly. Hook the tester clip to one motor lead and touch the probe to the other lead; the tester should light or buzz. Slowly rotate the motor shaft, keeping the tester in position. If the tester doesn't light or buzz, or if it flickers or stutters when you turn the motor shaft, the brushes should be replaced. If the springs behind the brushes are damaged, they should be replaced as well.

Step 3: Replace worn carbon brushes and damaged springs with new ones made specifically for the motor. The model information (number and make) is stamped on a metal plate fastened to the motor, or embossed on the metal housing of the motor. If you can't find the model information, take the worn brushes and springs with you to an appliance-parts store to make sure you get the right kind. Insert the new springs and brushes in the brush holders, replace the brush assemblies, and secure the new brushes with the mounting screws that held the old brushes.

sounds like your belt may be loose or the timer control maybe worn out

I would suggest you invert the vacuum and remove the plate covering the spinning brush assembly. You should check the belt located on one side of the spinner brush to see if it is worn or broken. Also remove anything wrapped around the brush that could be affecting it. Ensure the brush is free to rotate and seated correctly. If the belt is worn or broken, or the spinner brush is unable to spin, replacements are available from a licenced repair facility. I hope it helps! Good Luck!