Question about Zanussi TC7102W Electric Dryer

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No Heat - more info requested...

Hi all, I have now suffered this issue too where the dryer spins but doesn't heat. I have followed the steps outlined in previous posts and located both the heater and the thermostats attached to it. Now, the wires for the heater itself are crimped on and not easily removable and the thermostats are pop-riveted on, again not easily removable. I have run a multimeter across each item with the following results, can anyone advise if these are acceptable and if not which item is at fault and the best resolution please. Heater: (Three conections) Red - White: 38 Ohms Red - Black: 65 Ohms White - Black: 103 Ohms Thermostats (wire colours) Blue: 0.7 Ohms Red: 0.9 Ohms Many thanks Steve

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Make sure berore working on your dryer that it is unpluged from the mains, also be sure it can not be switched on while you are working on it.There is a high limit thermostat in the front bulkhead, to locate open doar and either by feeling or looking you will find the termostat above the doar in the front of the drum.To remove undo two screws located in the bulkhead.If on test you find stat open circuit it will need to be replaced.

Posted on Oct 17, 2007

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There is a high limit stat in the front bulk head.open door and you will find thermostat by feeling or looking above the door in front of drum

Posted on Oct 17, 2007

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When u buy a new heater it should come with the stats and the wires to un-clip are on the inside not the wires that are crimped together follow the crimped wires which will take u to the plug which u need to undo u cant always go with what the ohms are 1 way you can test the heater element is by conecting a wire with a plug on 1 end but bare wires on the other place the correct colour to each other and plug this cord in and switch it on it should start to glow straight away if it doesnt then its your element m8

Posted on Aug 28, 2007

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Hope this info helps, ps don't forget to give me a rating thanks!!


For an electric dryer that runs but doesn’t heat, follow this repair roadmap:
Flip the circuit breaker off and then back on. Electric dryers run on a two-pole, 240v breaker. A common problem is for one of the legs to break which cuts the 240v that the elements need to heat up but it still supplies the 120v for the motor. The result is that the dryer runs but doesn’t heat.
If the breaker checks out, then it’s time to do some surgery. Unplug the dryer and open it up.
. Use your ohm meter to test the thermostats. All should show continuity.
Measure the resistance of the heating element with your ohm meter. Normal readings are in the neighborhood of 30 ohms.
In rare cases, the centrifugal switch in the motor can fail which breaks the power circuit for the heating elements. If this is the case, then the entire motor must be replaced since the centrifugal switch is built into the motor.

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Hope this info helps, ps don't forget to give me a rating thanks!!


For an electric dryer that runs but doesn’t heat, follow this repair roadmap:
Flip the circuit breaker off and then back on. Electric dryers run on a two-pole, 240v breaker. A common problem is for one of the legs to break which cuts the 240v that the elements need to heat up but it still supplies the 120v for the motor. The result is that the dryer runs but doesn’t heat.
If the breaker checks out, then it’s time to do some surgery. Unplug the dryer and open it up.
. Use your ohm meter to test the thermostats. All should show continuity.
Measure the resistance of the heating element with your ohm meter. Normal readings are in the neighborhood of 30 ohms.
In rare cases, the centrifugal switch in the motor can fail which breaks the power circuit for the heating elements. If this is the case, then the entire motor must be replaced since the centrifugal switch is built into the motor.

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Hope this info helps, ps don't forget to give me a rating thanks!!


For an electric dryer that runs but doesn’t heat, follow this repair roadmap:
Flip the circuit breaker off and then back on. Electric dryers run on a two-pole, 240v breaker. A common problem is for one of the legs to break which cuts the 240v that the elements need to heat up but it still supplies the 120v for the motor. The result is that the dryer runs but doesn’t heat.
If the breaker checks out, then it’s time to do some surgery. Unplug the dryer and open it up.
. Use your ohm meter to test the thermostats. All should show continuity.
Measure the resistance of the heating element with your ohm meter. Normal readings are in the neighborhood of 30 ohms.
In rare cases, the centrifugal switch in the motor can fail which breaks the power circuit for the heating elements. If this is the case, then the entire motor must be replaced since the centrifugal switch is built into the motor.

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Hope this info helps, ps don't forget to give me a rating thanks!!


For an electric dryer that runs but doesn’t heat, follow this repair roadmap:
Flip the circuit breaker off and then back on. Electric dryers run on a two-pole, 240v breaker. A common problem is for one of the legs to break which cuts the 240v that the elements need to heat up but it still supplies the 120v for the motor. The result is that the dryer runs but doesn’t heat.
If the breaker checks out, then it’s time to do some surgery. Unplug the dryer and open it up.
. Use your ohm meter to test the thermostats. All should show continuity.
Measure the resistance of the heating element with your ohm meter. Normal readings are in the neighborhood of 30 ohms.
In rare cases, the centrifugal switch in the motor can fail which breaks the power circuit for the heating elements. If this is the case, then the entire motor must be replaced since the centrifugal switch is built into the motor.

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