Question about Garden
I have a Cub Cadet LTX1050 riding tractor. Of course the warranty expired in April. It does not shift between forward, neutral and reverse easily. It takes several tries to get it to go. I took it to a small engine repair guy who tells me it needs a new transmission. I know nothing about small engines and am a single mom of 4 so I always feel as though mechanics take advantage of our mechanical ignorance. This will be a very expensive fix but I cant afford a new tractor now. Could the mechanic be right? Any advice is greatly appreciated.
This can be a trans problem, but it can also be because you are not pushing the clutch/brake in far enough to ease shifting. bad clutch adjustment can also cause this as well.
Does the transmission otherwise work properly. (move freely in all the gears when it's in the gears without any grinding or bogging or burning smells? Does it stop properly when you push the clutch and engage properly when you release it. If so the transmission itself is probably okay but the shift mechanism where it shifts going into the transmission may need work. Most of these tractors all use the exact same transmissions (even different manufacturers often are using the exact same motors and transmissions as other brands. So Craftsman, MTD, Cub Cadet, even John Deere may all have a briggs and stratton engine and the exact same 5 speed manual transmission or hydrostatic transmission under them but then just have different looks and features up top. Sometimes the shift points on the common manual transmission get a little rusty inside the transmission. It's basically a small spring loaded ball that pushes from one rounded hole to the next and each hole is a spot where it holds the trans in whatever gear you set it at. This can get rusty and sticky and inhibit shifting. If you are not a big do-it-yourself person, then this is probably not an easy fix as it requires pulling the transmission and opening up part of it to lubricate/clean where the shift lever moves inside the trans or replace that particular mechanism.
However, one thing that you can do that may help SOME but only as a temporary thing is to shift it back and forth rapidly between forward and reverse while stopped (the motor doesn't need to be running even). This is kind of like swinging a rusty door back and forth to break down the rust. it's not a true fix per-say, but it can help loosen up those shift points enough to get you through a season or so if you just need to keep it going for a while till you can find a cheaper more honest repair person. . On the other hand, if it's really bad, it could break that ball loose and just make the tractor inoperable until you get that fixed. The parts for that are much cheaper than the actual transmission though.
Posted on Nov 14, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
One... these are pressure relif valves. There are O rings that probably need replacing is all, the valve can go bad but since both are leaking it will probably be just O rings from heat that went bad.
Remove the valves and replace O rings. Use a 'good' pipe thread dope on threads when re-installing.
Two... never use teflon tape on hydralic systems.
Three... boscia is no guro for sure.... lmao
Posted on May 21, 2009
I also have a Craftsman tractor with the same problem. Sears repairman said it needed a new transmission and it would cost $1,400 to install. A new one is about $1,000. Anyway, if you remove the battery and the battery tray under the seat it will expose the transmission fill hole (hex). I opened the top and it looked empty. I had a bottle of 90 weight gear oil in my shop and filled the transmission to the top. I have not had any problems with it since. $4.00 bottle of oil verses a new tractor is worth a try.
Posted on Nov 30, 2009
Sounds like your drive belt may have came off or it needs to be replaced. Take the battery out from under the seat to see if belt is still around transaxle. Sometimes it will jump off when doing a lot of starting stopping
Posted on Aug 04, 2010
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Posted on Nov 14, 2010
Hello, W/D here.
Without a particular model number, I'll have to be somewhat generic, so forgive me in advance.
The fact that the mower will run and the blades will engage is good news; it eliminates about half of the things that would need to be checked.
Look for a lever at the (usually) back of the tractor, on the back plate, down low. Sometimes called a range selector or a disengagement lever. Normally, the position of this rod is "IN". If it has pulled towards the "OUT" position, the transmission is disengaged. Usually this rod is pulled out when you want to push the mower, and I expect you're tired of that by now! Chech and see if this is the issue, and post back if not.
Posted on Mar 07, 2011
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