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I need a GE PSHS6TGXBDSS wiring diagram

My refrigerator ( Sideby Side) is not freezen. I have changed the Main board and the start relay, but even the funs are working, the compressor doesn't. And, to check all the conections and powers I need the diagram to do so. Thanks in advance

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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  • 163 Answers

SOURCE: GE refrigerator TDX11SNYAWH.

check your defrost timer and see if it is stuck in defrost.

Posted on Mar 07, 2009

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buddymcl777
  • 67 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore Refrigerator all outside body too hot.

I would say your compressor is running constantly and it is the heat from this that is making the fridge sides and front hot.

If it is that would indicate you have problems with either
1/ Your refrigarant is undercharged
or 2/ Your thermostat is defective

A stand alone refridgerator / freezer would tell you if it is keeping the correct temperature. If it is than a freon undercharge would be indicated.

Posted on May 09, 2009

todd0708
  • 247 Answers

SOURCE: Kenmore model 596.52673202 refrigerator not cooling or freezing

the defrost should be controlled by a timer every 10 hrs or so,it is usually in the bottom of the fridge by the compressor,it has a small motor that turns the timer,they burn out

Posted on Jul 21, 2009

aasc
  • 1606 Answers

SOURCE: GE PSS25MGMCAA refrigerator - Bad circuit board??

You need to change the board . Part number WR55X10656 . The board relay , cannot be changed . Power surges , dirty condensor coils , and usage , are the most common causes , for board failure .

Posted on Sep 24, 2009

bobicehouse
  • 1524 Answers

SOURCE: I have a GE refrigerator (model # GSH25SGRESS).

Change the control. GE has a number of problems with the original boards.

Posted on Dec 29, 2010

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Looking for a wiring schematic for a ge dide by side gsl25jfphbs no power ro evap fan motor


The problem you are having is most likely a defective=> WR55X10473 Main Control Board. The defective WR55X10473 Main Control Board may have been caused by a defective=> WR60X10185 Evaporator Fan Motor. If your motor has a white thermistor in the connector you need the related fan motor WR60X10074. If it has a connector for a light you will need a=> WR23X10467 Fan Motor Reason I am telling you this is because if the fan is defective it can again damage the Main Control Board. The same wiring diagram is found=> HERE or HERE by clicking on the wiring diagram. Listen to this video because it explains what I am trying to say. GE Refrigerator Fan Motor Diagnostics If you would like I can walk you through the diagnostic's to see what is going on. I am here should you have questions, Thanks John Tripp Appliance 911

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GE side by side refrigerator not cooling at all even after replacing the main board


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In many cases changing the board alone will not solve the problem if the start relay, overload and the run capacitor have not been replaced, WR09X10107 Relay and Overload Kit and WR62X79 Run Capacitor You can locate a service manual HERE and test points and wiring diagram HERE I am here to answer any questions you may have, Thanks Sea Breeze

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Psc25mstass The refrigerator does not cool at all. condensor and evaporator fans run but the compressor does not. When plugged in you can hear the inverter whine then the compressor will turn over and...


:
Hi!
A relay starts the compressor with a higher voltage and then quickly kicks out
It does a lot of clicking (trying to start over and over again)
If thats what is happening with yours
Its best for a tech to replace The relay but you can do it
Take your model number to your Local Appliance parts store they will have a diagram
showing you how to install the relay. Its called a hard start relay
I use part no ERP410 POWER START RELAY, CAPACITOR AND OVERLOAD all in one. (110 v)

If you still have trouble Go Here:

http://www.applianceaid.com/procedures.html

Thank you for using fixya
Leo Ponder
PLEASE VOTE FOR ME IF THIS WAS HELPFUL

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I have a GE refrigerator (model #GSL22JFREBS) and it is making a constant clicking noise and the entire refrigerator is no longer working. Please let me know what you think the problem might be? Is it the...


The clicking could be the start relay.If the start relay is bad, the compressor will not start and you will hear a clicking noise in 2-5 minute intervals. The clicking noise is the overload cutting the compressor off when it overheats from trying to start with a bad start relay. To find out if this is bad first unplug the refrigerator. Remove the lower cover from your refrigerator. Then take the cover off that is on the side of the compressor,you will see wires going to this. Now you should be able to see the start relay plugged on to the side of the compressor and unplug it. Now the best way to tell if it's bad is to shake it. If it rattles, it's bad and needs to be replaced. If not, most of the time it's ok. But rather than saying the compressors bad, you might want to replace it anyways because it does not cost much. A quick check on the compressor is to remove the start relay. You will see 3 pins connect a multi meter set for continuity. You should have continuity between any of the 3 pins. If you do not the compressor is bad. Also check from each pin to a good ground on the cabinet. There should be no continuity if there is the compressor is bad. If you replace it and it doesn't work then the compressor is bad and you'll need to call a repairman. (Note that compressors are very costly and are normally not worth fixing).You can enter your model # at Refrigerator clicking for diagrams and illustrations or to purchase a start relay. A 3 in 1 start relay will also work fine. All parts come with installation instructions. Not all models are available.

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1 Answer

On my GE refrigerator is not getting cold at all in the refrig nor the freezer. When I open the door the light is on and the fan is running. Is there an enteral fuise?


The compressor relay is bad on the main control board . Unplug the refrig and pull the refrig out and remove the 8X10 small panel on the back . You will see a blue plug with 3 larger (120v) wires going to it . Remove this plug . Looking at the plug , you will see : wire1 , wire2 , space , wire3 . (this is on the plug NOT the board ) . Using a short piece of insulated wire , with about 1/4" stripped off both ends , insert 1 end into wire1 and the other into wire3 . Plug the refrig back in . This will start the compressor to verify the main control board is bad . Pt # WR55X10942 .

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This is the fan motor making noise but the fan motor is probably ok. The main board supplies voltage to the motor and can cause it to make strange noises.

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My ge refrigerator is not going in defrost mode, ichange the defrost thermostat and the defrost heater still having the problem


If you changed your Hi limit thermostat and heating element then the only thing thats left would be your relay on your main control board is not closing. Its located on the back panel, the part number is WR55X10552 and will cost you about $120. Be sure to read the instructions with the board because there is a wire that you may have to cut depending on your serial number of the ref. When you replace it I would also replace your thermistor located on the top of the evaporator coils which looks like a bullet. It will cost you about 15 bucks.
Let me know if this helps _MJ_

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I had this problem and did 3 things to correct it:

1st: I changed out the Main Circuit Board in the back of the fridge.... very easy to do, but that wasn't the problem.

2nd: I changed out the Dispenser Circuit board, which is behind the touch panel. Also very easy to do, just snaps out. but that also wasn't the problem

3rd: I checked the wire harness connection point located behind the grill at the bottom front of the fridge underneath the freezer side. This is also very easy to do, and son of a ..... that is what is was. Moister from mopping the floor had started to corrode the connections. So I purchases a cheap 3 wire plug and cut out the old and spliced in the new. You don’t actually need the plug, you can hard wire direct but if you ever have to take the door off you will have to cut the wires.

So now I’m the proud owner of an extra functioning Main Circuit Board and Dispenser Circuit board if anyone is in need.

Nick

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Read, this model posted has a main board in back that controls the refer. Your problem sounds like the overload and relay on the compressor but you need to do a test to verify. On the main board in back there is a blue harness, 3 pronged, that is marked line, defr and comp. Lower left hand corner. You need to get a jumper wire with alligator clips and with the plug out, jump line to comp. Now plug it back in, this will send 120V directly to the compressor. See if it starts. If not and it does it clicking thing, chances are it's the overload and relay, or the compressor itself. You have five years warranty on the compresser. If it starts, it's the board it's the board giving you the problem. This of course is for the GSH model posted...Catriver..post back.

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