Question about Leviton 8599 GFCI Receptacle

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My GFCI outlet has a slightly flickering amber light.

Does this indicate it has power or what? When I push the test button, the power turns off and also the amber light. When I push the reset button and power is restored, the slightly flickering amber light comes on and stays on. My circuit tester indicates the circuit is OK.

Posted by Anonymous on

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agent91
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SOURCE: I have an electrical circuit in my home that

They put the GFI in line at the front, all the other plugs run off it. One of the other plugs, has lost ground, has lost neutral, a simple plug in tester will tell you this, find the fault, or,, you have a fluorescent bulb plugged into it. The gfi's are very sensitive, they snap at the drop of the barometer.

Posted on Mar 14, 2010

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SOURCE: i hooked up a 20amp circuit breaker to a 15amp recp. then to a 20amp gfci but my outlet tester reads open nutral. what's wrong?

You've lost a neutral connection at: one of the terminals somewhere; inside the outlet; broken strap between the neutral pads on the standard outlet; or the tester is providing an erroneous indication.

Does it read OK on the BOTH receptacles of the first outlet? Check the terminals that provide output on the first outlet and the LINE terminals of the GFCI . Bad at the first outlet? Check the input on the first outlet. Bad? Check splices between outlet and service panel and neutral connection at neutral bus bar inside panel. OK? Check the input to the GFCI - make sure on LINE terminals and proper polarity is observed.

Double check the line and load terminal screws of the GFCI outlet. Make sure that the power coming into the GFCI is connected to the LINE terminals. Be sure to connect the HOT and NEUTRAL wires to the proper LINE terminals. Neutral conductor (white) connects to the silver colored screws and hot (black or red) connects to the gold colored LINE screws. If you are sending power out to supply additional loads that are to be GFCI protected, the rules above apply - but connect to the LOAD screws.

Posted on Jan 17, 2012

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1 Answer

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GFCI's have 4 terminals. 2 marked Load, 2 marked Line. The black and white wires from the power supply MUST be connected to the LINE terminals. The load terminals is where you connect the outgoing circuit (i.e. plug, light etc). Anything connected to the load terminals will be controlled by the GFCI, so when it trips everything on that circuit will go off until you rest it. The other light/switch cannot be connected to the GFI if you want the switch to control it separately.

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Make sure it's getting power, and that the "vacation" switch isn't on.

If on a GFCI outlet, press the RESET button - Do Not press the "test" button. If GFCI is located upstream on another outlet, or the breaker (not uncommon), try resetting the breaker or that other outlet.

If still no joy, check that the outlet is hot by plugging something else into it. If that item doesn't work either check the circuit breaker for that outlet by moving the lever all the way to the Off position, then back to the On position. You should hear a click like a light switch.

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Make sure it's getting power, and that the "vacation" switch isn't on.

If on a GFCI outlet, press the RESET button - Do Not press the "test" button. If GFCI is located upstream on the breaker or another outlet (not uncommon), try resetting the breaker or that other outlet.

If still no joy, check that the outlet is hot by plugging something else into it. If that item doesn't work either check the circuit breaker for that outlet by moving the lever all the way to the Off position, then back to the On position. You should hear a click like a light switch.

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1 Answer

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The threaded knob should not be related to the problem, it just controls how much air gets mixed into the water jets. One possibility is that the electricity is off. These tubs should receive power through a Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter (GFCI) type of circuit breaker for your protection from electrical shock. Check your circuit breaker panel(s) for a breaker with a little square white or yellow "test" button. Refer to the label (if it is there) to see if it refers to "tub" or "spa" or "bath" or something like that. You may have to turn the breaker handle off (push extra hard to make it reset) and then back on again. If the breaker handle is in the "on" position and the "test" button does not "trip it off," call an electrician. If no luck there, check the bathroom for an electrical outlet with GFCI protection, again looking for white or yellow (or red) buttons - one should be engraved "test" and the other "reset" as the electrician (I hope it was an electrician) may have supplied the tub from this outlet (not actually up to code). Plug an appliance or light into the outlet. If it doesn't work, push the reset button on the outlet and test again. If working, now test the spa. If that doesn't work, test every other GFCI outlet you can find - in the kitchen, other baths, garage, outdoors, basement, etc. using the same testing procedure. If you find a GFCI breaker or outlet "tripped" that restores the tub, that indicates there is something wrong with your electrical system that could cause you to get electrocuted, and requires that you hire a qualified electrician to investigate the problem. The same is true for any GFCI outlet that does not "trip" and/or "reset." If this doesn't fix the tub, the problem may not be electrical but some other problem with the system, indicating a plumber or spa tech may need to be consulted. Note: these GFCI breakers and outlets are supposed to be tested and reset once every month. How many of us do that? Well, at least as often as we test our smoke detectors, I suppose.

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