Question about Garden
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
This is not unusual at idle; there is a governor to limit maximum RPMs and this device isn't worth beans at an idle.
You may be able to carefully adjust the idle adjustment (see your manual or B&S website) to achieve a somewhat more even idle speed.
Posted on Aug 20, 2009
This could be a number or items from no spark to a faulty carburetor, a plugged up air filter, valves out of adjustment, poor gas, faulty spark plug.
First, see if your getting spark, how about taking the wire off a plug(s) and holding it about 1/8" or so away from the plug with some masking tape while you crank the engine. You should be able to see the spark jumping the gap, it helps if it is not too light outside. If you attempt to do this with your hands, you will get a spark jolt, it hurts, so use the tape and remember, the engine could start so proceed with caution.
If you have no spark there, then you ignition or magneto is faulty. This would be unlikely in the broader scope of things. You will likely get spark. Make sure the plug is clean, take it out and inspect. If it is covered in gunk well clean it. It will smell like raw gas but you already know that. Change the plug if in doubt.
Remove and clean and replace the air filter.
If you have spark, and a clean filter it is likely a carburetor problem, Depending on the carb, it could be the choke is faulty or, as per the below.
Depending on what model you have there is a float assembly in the carburetor that stops the fuel from flooding the carb and air intake. The gas tank is higher then the carb right, so if you dont have a mechanism for stopping the fuel from leaking out the hole that goes into the engine, it will all leak out right, as into the fresh air intake because its easier than going into the engine. So, there is a miniature float assembly, sort of like your bathroom toilet float to stop the water. Well there is a small wedge type needle that seats into a hole and it is attached to a float. As the gas rises in the bowl, it pushes up the float, sealing the gas into a chamber, as you use more gas, the float lowers and more gas goes in. So ,there is dirt jammed into the float bowl sealing needle, just a little, thats all it takes. So, shut off the gas somehow, hopefully you have a valve, or squeeze the rubber line, then undo the float chamber, its one nut on the bottom. Clean carefully. The needle, little spring and float assembly are delicate. Also, the needle could be worn from engine vibration, so it may need a new needle. It would help if you described the engine and carb though.
I posted that as a solution to another problem, but yours may also be the valves need adjusting. Depending on the amount of hours, say over 200, then the valves timing will likely be off a bit. Check the clearances with a feeler gauge, it is not as difficult as it seems. Check your Owners manual for the clearance at top dead center. TDC is when you take the plug out and watch the piston arrive at the top of the cylinder through the spark plug hole when you are turning the engine over (do this by hand, battery off. Make the adjustments with the valve cover off. Follow the instructions.
Hope some of this helps.
Posted on Sep 21, 2009
Remove the brass bolt holding the carburetor bowl on and clean it real well. It has some very small holes in it that carry gas up to the carb and may be partially or completely clogged, causing your problem. All holes must be clear.
Posted on Jun 13, 2010
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your carburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
NOTE: Before you dissemble the carburetor:
Make sure you mark each piece with a awl, or some kind of instrument that will make an alignment scratch before you dissemble the carburetor into separate pieces.
That way you will know which way it goes back together when you reassemble it.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Also check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Make sure you are getting spark at the spark plug, to do this:
Remove your spark plug and check to be sure you are getting fire at the spark plug.
You do this by grounding the plug on the head of the engine and pulling the crank rope, if you are getting spark then:
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one, normally they are located in the fuel tank of weedeaters.
When you remove your fuel lines from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Normally the big line will be the line the fuel filter is connected to inside of the tank.The smaller of the two lines is the return to the fuel tank from the carburetor after it is pumped thru the carburetor by the primer bulb.
Also make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle mower or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the mower/weedeater is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
Sounds like you will need to clean the carburetor or replace your carburetor internal rubber parts like the diaphgram and O rings.
I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use compressed air to blow out all the fuel and air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their original position before you started.
Once you have your carburetor rebuilt that should solve your problem.
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Posted on Jun 25, 2011
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