Question about Drills
TAKEN ALL SCREWS OUT BUT DRILL CASING WONT SPLIT ,WHY.
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: jbl sonnet computer speakers
Check under the stickers, sometimes screws are hidden under rubber feet, and stickers. If there is a sticker you can rub it with your finger and feel if a hole is under it. Just look at how the rest of the screws are. If you have taken out 5 in the corners and a sticker or a rubber pad is in the last corner chances are its under that one. Also sometimes they use a rubber seal to create an air tight seal in the box. Sometimes this seal can be a little tacky and you need to pull on it a bit before it pops loose. If your sure there can be no more screws then it maybe stuck
Posted on Apr 05, 2006
If the screen is all white light then you can have a number of problems.
One could be a bad video board, the next could be a simple loose wire from the video board to the back of the lcd screen OR a simple blown fuse on the back of the actual lcd screen can cause the same thing.
Snaps are all sround these things and can be really stubborn at times. Best to start the bottom first then work up each side to the top.
Something flat, thin and with a decent sharp edge on it will help. A pocket knife held parallel to the joint between the front and rear plastic works, you can also sharpen the edge of an old credit card with a file (nail file works) This isn't as strong as a blade , but safer if you slip !!
Posted on Oct 11, 2008
SOURCE: how do i open up the casing
There are two ribbons holding the sections together. One is for the keyboard and one for the touchpad. They are hard work top get connected afterwards so expect some servere cursing .I found that asking my friend to do it with some forceps did the job admirably.
Posted on Feb 26, 2009
I also tried re-soldering joint L781 on the main power control board (see Solutions #2 and #7). It worked. My 15 inch Dell flat panel LCD is working again, white screen gone. The solder around the pin did looked different to to the other joints...a very slight gap around the pin as though it wasn't contacting properly. To locate L781, look at the bottom of the PCB (the side with the soldering) with the power plug socket at the edge closest to you. L781 is in the top left quadrant of the board, about 2 inches in from left, 1 inch down from the top. For good measure, I also tried the solution that suggested trimming a millimeter of the end of the two data ribbons that plug into the smaller control board, although I couldn't see anything wrong with the data ribbons. I did this at the same time as resoldering L781 so not sure if it made any difference.
Posted on May 02, 2009
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