My Husqvarna 48" Mower (YTH238) is two years old, and I decided to sharpen blades and do an overall clean-up (oil and all filters) while taking the deck off for cleaning and blade sharpening. For some reason (which I am clueless!), I removed the bracket clutch anti-rotation. When reassembling the deck to tractor, I did not replace this part before starting the mower (did not see it on garage floor). I started the mower, drove up my driveway and engaged the blades. They would not engage, and I could tell the mower was about to shut off. I immediately disengaged the blades and the mower kept running. I drove back down the driveway and attempted to engage the blades again. The same thing happened, and this time the mower shut down. When I attempted to restart the mower with blades disengaged...nothing. Engine would not turn over. I discovered the missing part and reinstalled it on the mower. I ttempted to start the mower and still nothing. Can I repair this? Or do I have to take to a Husqvarna dealer?
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There should be an anti rotation bracket on the side of the chassis too stop the whole clutch from turning, only the bottom half of the clutch should spin. There are cut a ways in the clutch hub that the bracket sits into.
Without the anti-rotation arm installed when you engaged the PTO the clutch spun and probably ripped out the wires connecting it to the harness. This can be repaired but is tricky. If you have a Husqvarna dealer close by, it will save you several hours of labor to have them correct the problem.
Not too sure which guide you are refering too, the only keeper at the clutch is the anti rotation bracket for the clutch itself, it bolts to the side of the chassis and the other end sits into a cut a way in the side of the clutch assembly.
Husqvarna uses an electronic clutch to engage the mower deck. When the clutch works itself out of adjustment it will quit working. Sometimes it will blow the 20 fuse and the tractor will continue to run, but the blade won't engage. When you then shut off the tractor it won't crank again until you replace the fuse. When you attempt to engage the blades again, the fuse will blow again.
Follow this link for a detailed description of the adjustment process:
I am assuming you have a Briggs & Stratton motor. If you have a "yardman" engine the procedure is still the same.
Changing the oil: Your mower does not have a drain plug on the bottom of the mower. Remove the dipstick and tip the mower over on that side. Let the oil run out and leave it tipped over for 5 minutes or so to get all the old oil out. Replace it with 22 oz of good 10w30 or straight 30w oil. I personally use Mobil One and change it once a year.
Blade: With the mower turned over you will see a bolt in the center of the blade. Remove that bolt and the blade will come off. Use a box-end or socket so you don't mess up the nut. It may be hard to loosen at first. Inspect the blade. If it has not large nicks or the dings and the back of the blade is not worn too much (the curved part) you can sharpen it with a file or grinder. Try to take the same amount off of both ends of the blade. (If you want to know how to balance the blade let me know)
If the blade has large dings, is bent different on one side more than the other, or parts of it have cracks, replace it with a new one.
I think the two bladed units are 42" and down in size. The 48" are 3 bladed units. There are instructions in the manual for leveling the cut. If you do not have a manual, look on line for a manual, google it. First step is to get the mower sitting on a level piece of concrete. That way you know which corner needs to be raised or lowered. Then make sure your blades are mounted correctly. Usually you can see the adjusters, threaded bolts and nuts, or pins. Usually the deck comes level and gets **** up by someone taking the deck off to swap or sharpen blades.