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Yard bug will turn over will not start put gas in carb and will fire. when it burns the fuel in carb it stops running

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  • 14 Answers

Simply crimp fuel line to carburetor, remove carb bowl, if equipped with fuel shut off selenoid you will hear or feel it click when you turn the key to accessories, clean bowl, if full of debris run straightened paper clip up center of carburetor, in clamp fuel line briefly to make sure you have fuel to there, install all,,, if not remove plug rest against
Engine, turn over and check for spark!!!

Posted on Jul 12, 2013


6 Suggested Answers

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017


SOURCE: gas not getting to carb. Blew out all lines gas, new gas filter

fuel line cracked in shroud just fixed one just like it check fuel line from filter to carb

Posted on Apr 08, 2009

  • 246 Answers

SOURCE: the mower will not stay running when I ingage the blades an I have to jump start it an put gas in the carb to get it to start but when it starts it stays running till I pull the botten to start the bl

Hello itsmcfly32:

From your Description it Sounds like a Stator/Charging Coil Problem.
If there is Not Enough Voltage to Keep the Carburetor Solenoid Open with the PTO Engaged, then the Stator/Charging Coils or the Voltage Regulator (if Applicable) is is Bad and this is causing Low Voltage that is Causing the Carburetor Solenoid to Shut Off the Gas Flow to the Carburetor Jet when you Engage the Blades; or the Seat Safety Switch is Bad and Requires Replacing or the Conection Points Require Cleaning.
Check the Seat Safety Switch First.
>>The Following is the Instruction File for Checking the Seat Safety Switch.
>>I NEVER Suggest a Mower be Operated with a Safety Device or Switch Disconnected or Bypassed. **Make Sure the Switch has a Good Connection. Now; On Some Model Mowers you can Simply Unplug the Safety Switch from the Harness. On Other Models you have to Place a Jumper Wire Between the Harness Terminals (on the 4 Post Switch Jumper from Same Color Wire to Same Color Wire). The Seat Safety is Showing No One is Seated in the Seat when the Clutch or Blades are Engaged.**
If the Seat Safety is Good, then
Check the Voltage.
>>Go to this Site Addy; and Use the Information and the Test Chart Links to Properly Determine the Charging System on your Engine and Correctly Test the Charging Sytem to Determine if it is Charging Correctly. These Charts and the Testing can be Used for Almost All Small Engine Charging Systems (Kohler, Tecumseh, Honda, ect). This Site Addy; will Assist you in Determining you Charging System on this Engine.
The Following is the Instruction File I Made for Removing the Flywheel from Most Mower Engines. It is the Basics and if you have a Question, Please Ask. Any Input to Make this File Better is Appreciated. ***Disconnect the Coil Wire from the Spark Plug. Remove the Blower Housing (metal engine cover). Remove the Coil. Remove the Flywheel Nut or Starter Cup (Depends on the Model). Now Attach a Steering Wheel Puller to the Flywheel Using the Threaded Holes in the Flywheel. Tighten the Puller. Now Hit the Puller with a Hammer. Repeat this Procedure Until the Flywheel Pops Up or can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft. On Some Models you Can Not Use a Puller and Must Use a Pry Bar and a Pipe Cap that is Slightly Larger than the Crankshaft. Place the Pipe Cap Over the Crankshaft to Protect it. Place the Pry Bar Under the Thick Section of the Flywheel and Pull Up Against the Flywheel. **BE CAREFUL DO NOT PUT A HOLE IN THE BLOCK UNDER THE FLYWHEEL** Now Hit the Pipe Cap that is on the Crankshaft (covered with the Pipe Cap). Repeat the Procedure Until the Flywheel can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft. *** Be Sure you have the Flywheel Torqued to the Proper Torque (I require the Model and Spec/Type Numbers Off the Engine to Provide the Proper Torque) and Set the Coil Gap to .020in.. The Stator (Charging Coil) is the Flywheel. Simply Disconnect the Wires, Unbolt the Stator and Replace with a New Stator. Assemble the Engine and you are Good to go.
Replace the Voltage Regulator if you Determine it is Bad.
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.

Good Luck


jbridger (John)

Posted on May 11, 2009

  • 1627 Answers

SOURCE: john deere 425 mower won't start

The ignition switch module is likely to be the problem,they seem to quit for no good reason.The safety relays and fuses are built into the board that comes with the switch and will most likely fix your problem.

Posted on Apr 25, 2010

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: John Deere will not start.

If you have gas running down to the carberator ( take the fuel line off and make sure there is gas running to it or there may be a screen or filter plugged by the tank or on the way to the carb) if there is gas there the problem lies in the carb itself. If you have some mechanical ability you should be all right as it is not rocket science. If you are comfortable with taking the carb apart the first thing i would check is the needle vavle. With the carb apart you will see a big brass looking thing this is the float, right above that is the neddle valve, that is the first place they seem to stick on me. Move the float up and down if the neddle above it doesn't move or sticks there is your problem. Spray it with carb cleaner and see if it moves freely. You may have to dismantle the carb to get it to work freely. If it won't buy a carb kit and install all the new gaskets needle valves and jets ( this is a very good ideal any how) Also make sure any little ports in the carb are open ( in the bottom of the carb there may be tiny little holes that are plugged) find a very small wire to clean them with and also make sure when you are done you can spray carb cleaner thru them. This is why they have a small straw on the can with it ( watch your eyes and wear safety glasses as you never know where it will spray out from) That stuff will dry your skin out fast so don't get it in your eyes and you may want to wear rubber gloves. Also be very careful when putting back together as there are little pieces that like to slide around and fall out or may get bent even worse you don't want them in your motor. Also try to count every screw you turn as these are jets and you will want to put them back to the place they were set at cause it's a pain to get them set right by adjusting them later. Do not force anything putting it back as you may bend the jets or float and you will have to take it apart again and replace them as well. Take your time and be patient and you will be just fine

Posted on May 08, 2010

Testimonial: " gave me encouragement to give it a try. I took off the shroud, air cleaner box and couldn't take off the carb as there are no heads on the four bolts that hold it on. Looks like it was designed not to be removed? I took off an inspection plate on top of the carb and cleaned all of the channels and ports within with carb cleaner and compressed air...still no gas flowing thru carb...unless I force with compressed air. Any other thoughts? It is a twin cylinder OHV B/S. Thank you. "

  • 20 Answers

SOURCE: i have a yard machines 46 inch cut 18.5 hp riding

I would start with the safty switches. Look for them on the deck engager, seat??, break/clutch pedel,blade engager lever. Remember the blade sw. must be disengaged be fore it will start. Ifit runs as you said It is in the wiring/ electrical system. I know it is not in the ignition sw. or seloniod. szm230

Posted on Apr 15, 2011

Testimonial: "ok i thank you.that solved the switch i have to keep it running..thanx again!"

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Hi Timothy:
Old Dude wisdom..........
- Fire at the plugs and
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If everything else is OK it should run. Not necessarily well, but it should run.

What to do?
1) Check for hot blue spark at the plug electrodes
2) Check for fuel in the carb.

If you have spark, give it a shot of gas into the carb, and give it a try. If it doesn't start, backfires, or catches fire, you'll need to double check the timing and plug lead firing order.

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Try taking the fuel jet out and blowing out the little hole that goes through it. Just a little bit of dirt will not let the engine run. While you got the jet out take the fuel bowl off and clean that as well. Be careful and don't mess up the float when you do this as sometimes they are hard to get back in. I find a lot of small engines I get in has a dirty fuel bowl and jet That's all i do in a lot of machines to get them running again..

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I have a CS4518 Earthquake chainsaw that will crank fine when you pump a little gas to the carb, but stops as soon as it burns the gas. I have replaced all fuel lines, primer bulb , cleaned the carb and...

Hi, OK firstly when you pump the primer bulb the primer bulb pulls fuel from the reservoir and pushes it to the carb then after around six to ten pumps the carb chamber is full and the fuel then goes back to the feservoir. Normally if you have a leak on the fuel line you get air in the priming bulb. Next thing is having primed Put the choke on full and pull the engine over a few times untill you hear it fire. Then depress the throttle and put the choke lever back to normal run position and pull the starter a couple of times untill it starts. Thats a pretty fool proff method on all two stroke machines and I have a few. Hope that is of some help.

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On my 97 balzer i cant get it running it will turn over and i do here the fulr pump but its not getting any gas in the motor. i have tryed pouring gas into the carb and it runs until the gas burns off i...

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If there is a fuel cup on the carb take it off and clean it out real good and also clean the fuel jet. It could be dirty with old dirty gas. You can clean fuel jet by blowing it out with air compressor or a real fine wire. Be very careful you don't disturb the float when you do this.

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1 Answer

Just will not start

You have most likely done this but lets go back to the basics.

Do you have spark at the plug?
Check to see if the plug is fouled - pull the plug connect to the plug wire- ground the metal part of the plug to the metal body of the engine - as you turn the engine over it should fire cleanly from the center to the electrode, if it fires off to the side or has an orange colored spark it is fouled - replace it.

Once we have spark check for gas is it getting to the carb?

90+ % of all small engines not running are due to the fuel line or in tank screen being plugged with garbage. Remove the fuel line from the carb, point it down and using a small container to catch the gas it should flow freely.
If you have good gas flow reconnect the fuel line to the carb and put about 1 CC of gas in the plug hole reinstall the plug and fire it - almost all small engines use a bit of vacuum to pull the fuel from the carb into the cylinder, jump starting them with a very small amount of gas directly in to the cylinder can help them get going.
Burning down the house will upset the other half

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How do i drain gas from 20hp 42in yard tractor?

The best way will be to take the fuel line off the carburetor or off the fuel pump, if so equiped, and put it lower than the fuel tank on the mower. Drain into a gas container. You can then put this gas in your vehicle to burn, rather than let it sit and go stale over the winter months.

If you are just taking the fuel out for the winter, and not for any other purpose, you can purchase some fuel stabilizer, called "Stabil", and put about 2 oz. per gallon of gas that's in your mower tank. Slosh it around a bit, start your mower and let it run, or take it for a spin around the yard to make sure you get the stabilizer mixed in well and down into your carburetor.

If you do drain the fuel for the winter, after you are done start your mowers engine and let it run the carburetor dry. That will keep it from evaporating too bad and gumming up your carb. Still a good idea to run some stabilizer thru the carb prior to draining the tank.

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