Question about Garden
Simply crimp fuel line to carburetor, remove carb bowl, if equipped with fuel shut off selenoid you will hear or feel it click when you turn the key to accessories, clean bowl, if full of debris run straightened paper clip up center of carburetor, in clamp fuel line briefly to make sure you have fuel to there, install all,,, if not remove plug rest against
Engine, turn over and check for spark!!!
Posted on Jul 12, 2013
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: the mower will not stay running when I ingage the blades an I have to jump start it an put gas in the carb to get it to start but when it starts it stays running till I pull the botten to start the bl
From your Description it Sounds like a Stator/Charging Coil Problem.
If there is Not Enough Voltage to Keep the Carburetor Solenoid Open with the PTO Engaged, then the Stator/Charging Coils or the Voltage Regulator (if Applicable) is is Bad and this is causing Low Voltage that is Causing the Carburetor Solenoid to Shut Off the Gas Flow to the Carburetor Jet when you Engage the Blades; or the Seat Safety Switch is Bad and Requires Replacing or the Conection Points Require Cleaning.
Check the Seat Safety Switch First.
>>The Following is the Instruction File for Checking the Seat Safety Switch.
>>***PLEASE REMEMBER THAT THE INSTRUCTIONS FOR CHECKING THE SAFETY SWITCHES IS JUST THAT!!! FOR CHECKING ONLY.***
>>I NEVER Suggest a Mower be Operated with a Safety Device or Switch Disconnected or Bypassed. **Make Sure the Switch has a Good Connection. Now; On Some Model Mowers you can Simply Unplug the Safety Switch from the Harness. On Other Models you have to Place a Jumper Wire Between the Harness Terminals (on the 4 Post Switch Jumper from Same Color Wire to Same Color Wire). The Seat Safety is Showing No One is Seated in the Seat when the Clutch or Blades are Engaged.**
If the Seat Safety is Good, then
Check the Voltage.
>>Go to this Site Addy; http://faqs.custhelp.com/cgi-bin/faqs.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=3438&p_created=1101706364&p_sid=bkP1h4rj&p_accessibility=0&p_redirect=&p_lva=&p_sp=cF9zcmNoPTEmcF9zb3J0X2J5PSZwX2dyaWRzb3J0PSZwX3Jvd19jbnQ9MjksMjkmcF9wcm9kcz0mcF9jYXRzPTAmcF9wdj0mcF9jdj0mcF9wYWdlPTEmcF9zZWFyY2hfdGV4dD1DaGVja2luZyB0aGUgQ2hhcmdpbmcgU3lzdGVt&p_li=&p_topview=1 and Use the Information and the Test Chart Links to Properly Determine the Charging System on your Engine and Correctly Test the Charging Sytem to Determine if it is Charging Correctly. These Charts and the Testing can be Used for Almost All Small Engine Charging Systems (Kohler, Tecumseh, Honda, ect). This Site Addy; http://www4.briggsandstratton.com/miscpdfs/RNT/alternator_id.pdf will Assist you in Determining you Charging System on this Engine.
The Following is the Instruction File I Made for Removing the Flywheel from Most Mower Engines. It is the Basics and if you have a Question, Please Ask. Any Input to Make this File Better is Appreciated. ***Disconnect the Coil Wire from the Spark Plug. Remove the Blower Housing (metal engine cover). Remove the Coil. Remove the Flywheel Nut or Starter Cup (Depends on the Model). Now Attach a Steering Wheel Puller to the Flywheel Using the Threaded Holes in the Flywheel. Tighten the Puller. Now Hit the Puller with a Hammer. Repeat this Procedure Until the Flywheel Pops Up or can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft. On Some Models you Can Not Use a Puller and Must Use a Pry Bar and a Pipe Cap that is Slightly Larger than the Crankshaft. Place the Pipe Cap Over the Crankshaft to Protect it. Place the Pry Bar Under the Thick Section of the Flywheel and Pull Up Against the Flywheel. **BE CAREFUL DO NOT PUT A HOLE IN THE BLOCK UNDER THE FLYWHEEL** Now Hit the Pipe Cap that is on the Crankshaft (covered with the Pipe Cap). Repeat the Procedure Until the Flywheel can be Lifted Off the Crankshaft. *** Be Sure you have the Flywheel Torqued to the Proper Torque (I require the Model and Spec/Type Numbers Off the Engine to Provide the Proper Torque) and Set the Coil Gap to .020in.. The Stator (Charging Coil) is the Flywheel. Simply Disconnect the Wires, Unbolt the Stator and Replace with a New Stator. Assemble the Engine and you are Good to go.
Replace the Voltage Regulator if you Determine it is Bad.
Please, Do Not Hesitate, If you Hit a Snag or this Does Not Correct the Problem, I am Here if You Require More Assistance.
Hope this Helps. Let me Know What Happens, Please. May the All Mighty Bless You and Yours. Be Safe and Be Happy. Thanks.
Posted on May 11, 2009
SOURCE: john deere 425 mower won't start
The ignition switch module is likely to be the problem,they seem to quit for no good reason.The safety relays and fuses are built into the board that comes with the switch and will most likely fix your problem.
Posted on Apr 25, 2010
SOURCE: John Deere will not start.
If you have gas running down to the carberator ( take the fuel line off and make sure there is gas running to it or there may be a screen or filter plugged by the tank or on the way to the carb) if there is gas there the problem lies in the carb itself. If you have some mechanical ability you should be all right as it is not rocket science. If you are comfortable with taking the carb apart the first thing i would check is the needle vavle. With the carb apart you will see a big brass looking thing this is the float, right above that is the neddle valve, that is the first place they seem to stick on me. Move the float up and down if the neddle above it doesn't move or sticks there is your problem. Spray it with carb cleaner and see if it moves freely. You may have to dismantle the carb to get it to work freely. If it won't buy a carb kit and install all the new gaskets needle valves and jets ( this is a very good ideal any how) Also make sure any little ports in the carb are open ( in the bottom of the carb there may be tiny little holes that are plugged) find a very small wire to clean them with and also make sure when you are done you can spray carb cleaner thru them. This is why they have a small straw on the can with it ( watch your eyes and wear safety glasses as you never know where it will spray out from) That stuff will dry your skin out fast so don't get it in your eyes and you may want to wear rubber gloves. Also be very careful when putting back together as there are little pieces that like to slide around and fall out or may get bent even worse you don't want them in your motor. Also try to count every screw you turn as these are jets and you will want to put them back to the place they were set at cause it's a pain to get them set right by adjusting them later. Do not force anything putting it back as you may bend the jets or float and you will have to take it apart again and replace them as well. Take your time and be patient and you will be just fine
Posted on May 08, 2010
Testimonial: "thanks...you gave me encouragement to give it a try. I took off the shroud, air cleaner box and couldn't take off the carb as there are no heads on the four bolts that hold it on. Looks like it was designed not to be removed? I took off an inspection plate on top of the carb and cleaned all of the channels and ports within with carb cleaner and compressed air...still no gas flowing thru carb...unless I force with compressed air. Any other thoughts? It is a twin cylinder OHV B/S. Thank you. "
I would start with the safty switches. Look for them on the deck engager, seat??, break/clutch pedel,blade engager lever. Remember the blade sw. must be disengaged be fore it will start. Ifit runs as you said It is in the wiring/ electrical system. I know it is not in the ignition sw. or seloniod. szm230
Posted on Apr 15, 2011
Testimonial: "ok i thank you.that solved the switch problem..now i have to keep it running..thanx again!"
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