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The proper sequence to installing the chain should be to first ensure the brake is in the 'unlocked' position then loosen the chain adjustment screw, slip the chain over the back of the sprocket, align the chain with the bar, slip the bar onto the bar mounting studs ensuring the adjustment pin slips into the appropriate hole in the bar. Then slip the outer chain cover over the bar studs, elevate the front end of the bar and tighten the bar mounting nuts to 'snug'. Adjust the chain tension to the desired setting ensuring the front of the guide bar remains elevated, then tighten the nuts to secure the bar.
Remember to unlock the brake BEFORE removing the bar and chain because it is so much easier to unlock it mounted on the saw if yours is the design that comes off with the cover.
Keeping the front of the bar elevated during assembly and adjustment of the chain will keep the chain tension correct for a much longer period.
You need to tighten the chain. Loosen the nuts that hold the blade on just a little, then look on the inside of the blade. You will see a screw to tighten the blade. The chain should not be tight. There should be a little space between the chain and the bar. You should not be able to see the guide teeth of the chain. Just about 1/32 of an inch. When you tighten the blade back up, if you had it too lose, it will tighten the chain back to, too tight.
The main drive gear is slipping. This is caused by etiher worn teeth or worn bearings. If you pass the model number I can show you a diagram of where to look and what part or parts that have most likely failed. The drive gear is the weakest link but the motor can be shifting in the housing away from the drive gear. It only takes a bit less than 1/8 inch side play. The model number will be similar to this 358.341160
Make sure the chain has not been damaged from past slipping by removing it from the machine and laying the chain out in a large circle on a flat surface. No part of the chain should be standing free of the surface--replace the chain if it does. The chain should be adjusted so that the chain just comes up to the lower bar edge, but not so tight that the chain cannot be turned by hand. Make sure the teeth are quite sharp for maximum cutting effect and minimum heat. Check the chain lubrication by running the bar tip at speed for a moment or two near some cardboard--it should throw off a thin line of oil. Don't continue to run the saw if the chain starts to droop from the bar. If it is quite hot, allow it to cool which should re-tighten the chain. Hope this helps!
When the door is opening the chain will be tight on one side and slack on the other. When it is closing it will be just the opposite. It is important that you do not over tighten the chain. I suppose the wrong chain could be shipped with the opener but it wouldn't be common.
Hello David; good luck to you. I went here and input model 107624-01, followed the directions and when possible selected the IPL. I found pn 108640-01, item 32, NLA @ Remington Power: Remington.com http://shoppingcart.msservicecompany.com/Default.aspx • Type "YourModelNumber" into the "Search for your unit by Model:" window, then click search. • Click the “YourModelNumber” - Remington Electric Chain Saw "View Model" link. • Click “View Owners Manual” or "View Illustrated Parts Diagram" link. • Type "YourPartNumber" into the “Search for your parts by Part #:” window, then click search. Part Number 108640-01 is available here $13.99 - the picture is a complete assembly (cover, bar nuts, spacers and tensioner assembly). PartsFor.com http://www.partsfor.com/
If me I would use the phone number provided, ensure it includes all illustrated parts, order with a credit card (recover your investment much easier), get the name of the service person helping me and the name of her/his supervisor.
Please re-accomplish my steps to ensure I made no mistake, I do err occasionally (I swear on a stack of UCMJs covers have been NLA for quite a while).
If you have more questions or need additional help please reply below and I will get back to you. HTH & Good Luck. Lou Thank You for using FixYa.
First, inspect the chain for bent links or other damage. If ok, loosen the bar mounting nut(s) and turn the tension adjust screw CCW until the chain can be passed over the sprocket, then threaded over the far end of the bar. Make sure the chain cuts toward you on the bottom. Turn the adjusting screw CW until the chain begins to tighten. Proper adjustment is when the lower run of chain doesn't droop from the bar, yet allow easy movement of the chain by hand. Tighten the mounting nut(s) and recheck the chain adjustment. Pay attention to chain droop and readjust as needed during use of the saw. Make sure it is being properly oiled by running the saw in front of a piece of cardboard for several moments--it should throw off a thin line of oil. Hope this helps!
Loosen the chain enough
so that you can remove it from the sprocket above the motor unit.
With the door closed run the motor until the sprocket turns clockwise
and stops. With everything attached replace and tighten the chain.
Some adjusting of the up and down limits will probably be required.
If the chain is adjusted properly the chain will sag slightly on one side when the door is closed and on the other side when it is open. It should not sag enough that it is dragging on the T-rail. You can adjust it at the trolley. If you over tighten it you will hear a clicking sound when the opener opens or closes.