Question about Whirlpool RBD305PDS Electric Double Oven

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How do you remove a Whirlpool double wall oven when the upper door will not open?

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6 Suggested Answers

6ya6ya
  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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catriver
  • 878 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool Double over

big dib, the TC0, ( thermal cut out) probably has opened. This is non resetable. To get at it you have to pull the oven out to a point where you can get at the back. Then you have to remove the oven back panel and there is the TCO. Part number 4450249. You can verify this by ohming out the TC0, if it shows open (no continuity) it's bad. I have done a number of these and it takes two people to repair it safely. Kill the breaker when going in there. Catriver..post back.

Posted on Dec 30, 2006

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SOURCE: Whirlpool Double Oven RBD305PDB7 - Upper Oven Won't Heat

I have the single oven of this style and I had to replace the thermocouple (part number 4450934) on the back of the oven three times (used the cleaning cycle three times). After using the cleaning cycle, the oven would not heat so each time I had to pull the oven out from the wall to access the back so I could change the part. Once a new part was put on the back of the oven, it worked fine. To pull the oven out, open the oven door and look down by the doors hinges. On each side you will see a screw that's holding the side molding on. Remove the screws and then the molding. That will give you access to the screws that hold the oven into the framing around the oven. Remove the screws and then you can pull the oven out to access the back to change the thermocouple. The oven is heavy so you may want some help to get out. It is not a one man job, maybe a one man and wife job. It is heavy. I hope this helps. Better late than never.

Posted on Nov 24, 2008

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: whirlpool rbd275pdb double wall oven died during self clean

The first time we used our Whirlpool oven the same thing happened - no power and yet the circuit breaker was not blown. I called Whirlpool, and they sent out a technician to check it out as it was still under warranty. He said the temperature was off (too hot) by 20F - he adjusted. He also replaced the blower. What he did not tell me was that the thermal fuse had blown, and he replaced it - this was the REAL cause for the failure. I got the impression that he did not want to let me in on the secret. He did not note on the paperwork that he replaced the thermal fuse. Last week I decided to run the oven through the self-cleaning cycle (the oven is now 8-1/2 yrs old) - I don't believe that we cleaned the oven but a couple of times since the first time that it was "repaired." I used the default 3-1/2 hour setting. Everything appeared to be fine - the oven went through the cleaning cycle with no apparent problems. The display now read "cool down" - I went to bed thinking everything was okay. I got up the next morning only to find out that the power was out. I called Whirlpool and demanded that they repair the unit again as they clearly never fixed it correctly in the first place. They offered me 15% off on a new oven - WHOOPEE! I asked to speak with the supervisor - he did not budge either. I was upset, and I told him that I would NEVER purchase a Whirlpool appliance again! I decided to tear into the oven to see if I could detect anything wrong. I pulled out the front panel - everything looked okay. I then noticed the "thermal fuse" - I did not know what it was called at the time, but it looked familiar. I checked voltage on either side of the fuse and found the voltage to be zero on the downstream side of the fuse. I pulled it out and read the information on the device: Microtemp 110C. I called a local appliance repair shop - they told me that it would cost $50 to purchase a new fuse! I told them that seemed very high. I ended up stopping at Radio Shack. They have thermal fuses in various temperature and voltage ranges. I got a 144C 10A fuse and carefully soldered the connectors to it and replaced the protective plastic sleeve. I actually bypassed the thermal fuse in order to use the oven before I found the replacement fuse. While it is a good idea to have a protection device for the slim chance that an oven may malfunction by overheating, it is not a necessity for the functionality of the oven. Hopefully, the thermal fuse will not fail during my next attempt to self-clean the oven. I do have a concern about the 10 amp rating, but I'm sure that it will work fine.

Posted on Apr 15, 2009

  • 17 Answers

SOURCE: Whirlpool double oven - model RBD305PD82

Please take a look at the diagram if you think you want to do that.
if you still want to do it and need more details to disassemble feel free to email me. nguyen@ite.net

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Posted on Jun 09, 2009

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: how to remove the control panel on Whirlpool double oven Model RBD305PDS14

Emge & Associates is investigating gas and electric ovens manufactured by Whirlpool, including such popular brands as Whirlpool, Jenn-Air, KitchenAid and Maytag.
The firm is investigating reports that the electronic control panel on certain models is subject to failure after a limited number of uses of the appliance’s “self-cleaning” setting. While most foods are cooked at temperatures reaching 375 degrees, the “self-cleaning” setting raises the interior oven temperature to 1,400 degrees. Due to defects in the design and or manufacturing, the electronics contained on many ranges are damaged by extremely high heat. Repairs to damaged control panels typically cost in excess of $300 per replacement.
If you have experienced failure of the control panel in your range after using the “self-cleaning” setting, you can join this investigation by contacting Emge & Associates at (800) 629-3409 or (619) 618-2974.

Posted on Dec 19, 2009

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Double oven no model number Whirlpool 14 years old Door is locked after self clean and display is blank


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Your oven has resetable high limit thermostat that tripped off on the self clean cycle,im not sure if you have free standing,or a wall oven if freestanding the t-stat is on back panel if wall oven its behind control panel on upper oven and for lower oven its behind the grill between bottom of upper oven and top of lower oven. In either case it has a small red button that can be pushed in to reset it

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Whirlpool Wall oven/microwave combo unit Door message
Does anyone know where the 15 amp fuse is? I replaced the 20amp fuse and it worked for a minute or two and then I opened the door and I blew my circuit breaker. I reset my circuit breaker, replaced the 20 amp fuse and now all I get is the Door message. I also noticed that it fused the outside switch on the right side of the door so I had to open the switch up and un-fuse it. This is for a whirlpool GMC305PRS01 Wall Oven/microwave combo unit.

Also if anyone could tell me the correct position the wire is supposed to be hooked up on the switches? I had someone help me take the switch out and they unhooked the wires and now we aren't sure how they are supposed to be hooked up. My light on the microwave doesn't work either. Is it possible the bulb blew when the fuse blew?

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Hi,
Cycling the power off and then on again will sometimes reset it...often you will have to call the customer service number to get the steps to take to unlock that...

Also check out this tip...

http://www.fixya.com/support/r3969401-self_cleaning_oven_problem

heatman101

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I have the single oven of this style and I had to replace the thermocouple (part number 4450934) on the back of the oven three times (used the cleaning cycle three times). After using the cleaning cycle, the oven would not heat so each time I had to pull the oven out from the wall to access the back so I could change the part. Once a new part was put on the back of the oven, it worked fine. To pull the oven out, open the oven door and look down by the doors hinges. On each side you will see a screw that's holding the side molding on. Remove the screws and then the molding. That will give you access to the screws that hold the oven into the framing around the oven. Remove the screws and then you can pull the oven out to access the back to change the thermocouple. The oven is heavy so you may want some help to get out. It is not a one man job, maybe a one man and wife job. It is heavy. I hope this helps. Better late than never.

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