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Glow ignitor How do I check the amp draw

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To do this safely, you'll need a "clamp-on type ammeter" or "amprobe" . They look like this:
glow ignitor - 8f374762-5c6f-41b7-9e5e-2dd88a82aa6e.gif
The nice thing about "clamp on type ammeters" is that they do not require physical connection to or disconnecting of any wire(s). Instead, simply set the scale for the most current you expect to see, clamp around ONE wire and adjust the scale as needed & read the meter for the most accurate reading.

There are available in various sizes and by other manufacturers - that offer a wide range of prices. Amprobe is the name of a particular company that invented this years ago - and makes this one - and other electrical test equipment. A search for images of "Amprobe" returns these.

Posted on Jul 11, 2013


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Yes Steve I do , that fuse supply's power to the I/P fuse block inside the vehicle . It powers AUX/PWR fuse #13 -20amp , RDO/BATT fuse #19 - 15amp ,MIR/LKS fuse #7 - 5amp , CTSY/LP fuse #8 - 15 amp , CIGAR/LTR fuse #2 15 amp , PWR/LKS fuse #14 15 amp , HDLP/SW fuse #1 - 10amp .Do you know where the I/P fuse block is ? You would need to do a parasitic draw test ! This involves hooking up a amp meter in series with the negative battery post an negative battery cable . Pulling each one of these fuses till the battery draw stops ! How To Perform Parasitic Draw Test EricTheCarGuy check out Eric the car guy's video on the subject !

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Air compressor

Usually, motor will draw lower amperage when tank is empty then draw most when about full. High amp draw is caused by long cord, weak capacitor, leaking check valve or blown head gasket/s. If gaskets are bad, the head of the compressor will be very hot and take much longer to fill. If the motor (is too small) is not correctly matched to the pump, the motor will draw max amps. To correct motor to small, use a smaller pulley at the motor. Using a smaller pulley will turn the pump less rpm giving the motor a break lowering amp draw. Good luck

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thermostat is either getting weak or the element is going bad and drawing to many amps. check the amp draw on the element to see if it is drawing more than the thermostat is rated for.

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parasitic draw should remain at 50 milli amps or less or .05 amps this needs to be checked with an amp meter with the battery terminal disconnected and the power drain going through the amp meter keep in mind the circuits your testing may take up to an hour or two to fully go to sleep there is no easy way to test these multi circuits it takes years experience to troubleshoot these

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When I turn it on, the heating element glows, but there doesn't seem to be any gas flowing through. I checked the valve, and it's open. Does this oven have a pilot light that needs to be lit?

The glow you see is actually the ignitor, it has taken the place of the out-dated pilot light. It is likely that your ignitor is partially burnt out and the safety valve is not opening. A good bake ignitor draws just over 3 amps and the safety valve will not open until it reads this 3 amp draw.

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1 Answer

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That sound is the sound of death....... The compressor is trying to start but can't and the overload is tripping. May only need a new start capacitor or a 3 in 1 start capacitor which replaces the overload start relay and capacitor. If you have a amp meter you can check the amp draw to see if it is drawing Locked Rotor Amps. Look at the name plate on the compressor and it will give you LRA.and see if it is close to it. Then check it again after you replace the start components and see what it is drawing if it has not started and still drawing high amps then the compressor is locked up and will have to be replaced.

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Air compressor starts fine,but trips the thermal reset ,motor seems hot. It does it in every receptacal I've tried.

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Oven does not ignite broiler does ignite burners do ignite

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