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Fuse/Resistors Due to a power surge the 2* 100UK Fuse Resistors have blown, I need to source these Please. Any Idea where I can get them from..NEC cannot supply

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Go to www.partselect.com or www.radioschack.com and get it

God bless you

Posted on Jul 11, 2013

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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SOURCE: No Power at all. Fuse T2AL is blown up

This is a common fault - JVC seem to be poor at building power supplies. I suspect not only IC 5101 has blown but also a resistor underneath the circuit board r5107 (680 ohms 1/16Watt) .

The IC 5101 is a component listed as strg6653. You can get this from http://www.4ourhouse.co.uk/cgi-bin/home.pl - justs search for strg6653.

Posted on Jan 29, 2008

AJIN G
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SOURCE: I have a DMR-ES10 Recorder

hi,
I have the service manual for Panasonic DMR-ES10 in PDF format. If you can give your email address then i will sent the manual to that. I can't up load the manual trough fixya as it a PDF file.
OK

Posted on Sep 21, 2011

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1 Answer

I replaced an apparent blown fuse, TV still won't power on.


Most likely your power supply is damaged and will need to be replaced. Sometimes, power supply manufacturers add additional "fusible resistors" to provide additional protection.

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Due to a power surge, my Sharp AR-M277 won't turn


There is a 20A fuse on the AC power board it is most likely blown. Follow the power cable to the board the big white ceramic fuse is the main, check continuity with meter and replace.

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No power due to thunderstorm, it's off but connected to the power source..


It can be affected due to current surge on the line, the most probable affected area is the power section of your TV. Some incidence are only fuse blown out where you can replace the fuse with a new one just be sure that the rating is the same. But others are major components like MOSFET, Thyristor, Varistor which are usually sensitive on current surge.

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Hello. I am a old tech, so struggle a little bit with this unit. It appears that the 12 volt power relay is not getting any signal, thus the 110 is not connected to the first set of power sections. It...


The relay shorts out two power resistors that limit the input power surge. The circuit is complex a bit. An off-line small switching power supply fires up and "heats up" the rest of the circuit for the main power switcher. I have repaired about four of these. Usually a failure due to arcing in the power amp section fries three transistors there and often a Zener diode. This then wipes out the main +/- 70 volt supply. The two IGBT's are usually blown including the four driver traansistors and the switching regulator chip and another small surface mounted transistor and one or both speedup surface mounted 1N4148's. IF THE fuse had been replaced to try again, often the two power resistors (sand coated ceramic) that ar 10 Watt either 10 or 20 ohms will be blown. Some of the hardest thing is to get the heatsinks loose with the IGBT's. When restarting the supply AFTER repair, one puts about 100 Watt lamp bulb in series with the 120 power input to act as a limiting fuse. You will NOT get far with this without a schematic. You can contact me by direct email fredy2 @ aol.com

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I have a Polaroid FLM323B and was watching it and it just went out. No power light, no nothing, what could have fried?


Sounds like a power surge related problem. My money would be on the Power supply board itself. In cases like these it might be a good idea to replace the entire board itself (costs about 100$) instead of going component by component coz off late the protection circuitry have been getting weaker and as a result a lot of components are getting fried by surges. Last week I have worked on a set with similar problem that had the following fried components blown 10A fuse, 2 Voltage , 2 10KOhm resistors , Regulator ICs, 2 Circuit protectors along with a few capacitors of varying values of capacitance!

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1 Answer

No power


Your power board has blown. Possibly the fuse has blown. Check inside for broken fuse. If fuse is fine, then fuseable resistors are blown.If u have no idea what im talkin about, then send your player to local tech store for repair.

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1 Answer

I was looking for a 12v keyed power source under the hood when I heard a fuse pop. I wasn't touching a live wire at the time it popped but I lost my cruise control. I have checked the cruise control...


The "resistors" are actually maxi-fuses. Your Batt1 or Batt2 fuse is blown more than likely. There should be other components that are not working.
Look down into the Maxi-fuse, you should be able to see the fused bridge of the fuse. If it is dark, it has blown. If you compare it to the others, you will see the difference. You can also remove the cap on top of the fuse to see the fuse bridge.
Good luck,
Regards,

May 13, 2009 | 2002 Buick LeSabre

2 Answers

Denon AVR-1601


This is a very common problem with denon receivers of the 2001-2-3 vintage. On almost every one, there are 4 little "surge" resistors in the power supply. These werent quite robust enough from the factory and one day would just burn open for no reason. Well, actually there is a reason, the "surge" that happens every time you power the unit up eventually weakens the resistors and then they pop. You need to take this to a denon service shop as I GUARANTEE they have seen this before. They need to check resistors in the picture, locarde above the **** rectangular connector. Resistors numbers R141, 142, 148, 149: 75f69d7.jpg These resistors when measured, should be less than 10 ohms each. If they are more, then they are blown. If they are blown, then have the shop check the channels for blown output transistors. If the outputs are OK, then these resistors should be replaced with 1 ohm 1/2 watt metal -film flameproof resistors. You might need to be prepared for a large bill, because the entire unit must come apart to replace the resistors, however, just checking them takes only about 10 minutes... Good luck and don't try this at home. Rob

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1 Answer

No power on NEC LCD1912 LCD monitor


NEC Repair Services of course, where he would order the replacement part; but given you can't use them without a Service Contract (four figures; yet useful for a repair shop with a corporate client with lots of NEC equipment) the diagnosis you got sounds reasonable. Find the NEC Authorized repair specialist in town with a bench fee you like, or go shopping!

I like the idea of reusing the old thing as much as anyone; if you can find the make and version of the working components, you're welcome to use them in native mode (no need for the control/interfaces chip; a PIC or other microcontroller can be substituted), make a projector, use the supply and other functions with their control lines 'tied low' with 200 ohm resistors, etc. I would be inclined to think that the video amps and detection circuits at the inputs failed (in hopes of saving the interior components,) and just replace those after I had some success driving the test points to force it into an ON state; but a positive ID of a bad chip is not going to put high hopes on that fix. A fixable unit would usually start to come on, then trip off when a failed functional section (or absence of video) was detected by a working control circuit.

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