Question about Refrigerators
Posted by Anonymous on
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
Most ice makers have a wire bar that senses when the ice bucket is full. The bar lifts up when new ice is made. The ice maker determines if the ice bucket is full by lowering the bar back down after the ice drops into the bucket. If the bar hits the ice cubes in a full bucket, the ice maker shuts off. If the bar drops all the way and dosen't touch ice cube, the ice maker continues making ice until the bucket is full.
So you likely have one of the following problems:
1) The wire bar is missing or bent. Check to make sure that when the bar is pushed up, the ice maker stops making ice. Most bars will 'click' into the up position so you can shut the ice maker off. Push the bar up until it clicks into the up position and wait overnight to see if it makes more ice. If there is no wire bar over the ice bucket, that is your problem.
2) The switch the wire bar is connected to is malfunctioning. If you push the wire bar up and the ice maker continues to make ice, this is likely your problem. You will need a new ice maker unit. Try Appliance Parts Pros or EBay for a new unit.
Posted on Jan 07, 2009
SOURCE: BROKEN DOOR BRACKET
Reliable Parts http://www.reliableparts.com/ has them in stock. The parts are made by Serviplus. According to Eric at their main number, there are several in stock in the San Francisco store. I called 877-733-9241.
One word of warning: when I went to pick up the part (I needed only the 221C6568), the first one they brought out was a 221C6578 that was mislabeled. You might want to ask them to verify before they ship them.
Posted on May 07, 2009
No, it is not normal. The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back
wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10
hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic
adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to
melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from
overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches
close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost
cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs replaced.
The defrost heater is located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If you have a defrost timer you can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that means the timer is not running. If it doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer, replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
If you need help finding your model number see here> http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
To locate your timer, motherboard, control or adaptive defrost control , enter your model number and search for the part or post back on Fixya.
Posted on Oct 05, 2009
SOURCE: My frig is not geting
If the refrigerator is not running, first I suggest check to see if there is power to the refrigerator. Make sure the plug is properly seated in the socket and the temperature control is turned to the "on" position.
If "0F 0F" appears on the display, the refrigerator is in DEMO MODE. To exit Demo Mode for controls on the outside of door, Press and Hold the Energy Saver and Adjust Freezer buttons at the same time for 3 seconds. To exit Demo Mode for controls inside the Fresh Food Compartment, Press and Hold the Ice Off and Freezer buttons at the same time for 3 seconds. You will hear a beep and "0F 0F" will no longer be displayed. Adjust Refrigerator and Freezer temperature to the desired settings. Allow 24 hours for temperatures to stabilize.
If the refrigerator is running and not cooling or not cold enough, several factors may influence the temperature. Try the following:
* If the refrigerator has just been serviced, it could still be in a diagnostic mode. Please disconnect power to your refrigerator for 30 seconds and this should clear the control panel. The refrigerator should now cool normally.
Check the temperature control settings:
* For Dial or Digital Readout Models, adjust your temperature control by one number higher for a cooler temperature setting.
* For Actual Temperature Readout Models, adjust your temperature control by one degree lower for a lower temperature setting.
Additionally, for some troubleshooting tips, go here: Refrigerator-Troubleshooting
Keep us updated.
Posted on May 20, 2011
Most likely the valve has failed. Usually located in the back of the refrigerator, near the bottom - otherwise, follow your water line (feed from the house water supply).
Posted on Aug 02, 2012
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