Question about Maytag SAV3710AWW Washer
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
shy, Lr is the error for a locked rotor. The machine is trying to run the motor but is unable. Usually this the motor control board that is at fault. The first thing to do is make sure the belt is on. After that some tests are have to be made to determine what is going on. Im going to lay out some instructions in case you want to get into this thing. You will have to remove the door by removing the screws holding the hinges on. Same thing for the spacers on the other side. Lift up and remove the door. Pull the front panel forward and lift off. Once the panel is off, set the door back on and close it. Unplug the washer. On the motor control board, bottom right, pull the JP4 harness connector from the board. Plug the washer back in and make sure the door is closed. Press delicates and heavy soil 3 seconds to activate the service mode. Now press the rinse key. Make sure the door is locked by pressing the max extract key. Now press the stain cycle to start motor control test. The motor should run rotating the drum at 50rpms. If the motor doesn't run, check for voltage at the 3 wire harness, MN4, should be 120V. If you don't have the voltage, problem is in the main board. If you have that voltage, then the problem lies either in the motor control, or motor itslelf. On the motor harness, 7 pin connector on the board (middle). Between the brown, white and black wires should all read 6 to 7.5 ohms. Between the 2 grays 150 to 195 ohms. If that checks, then it's the board. If it doesn't check, it's the motor. Ohm checks should be done with the power off. Catriver.
Posted on Jun 10, 2007
There is a service manual behind the control panel it will show you how to test the door locks. If might have a bad lock solenoid.
Posted on Aug 18, 2008
Thank you for the machine model number confirmation. Who ever offered up the clutch as a possible issue has a clue. Could be the Tub Displacement Sensor but from my experience 10 times out of 10 it’s the clutch. I’ll post this info as a solution, the next question is read the info look at the Service manual and see if you or someone you know that is handy can drop the clutch out of the machine and inspect. They can then evaluate the clutch to see if it’s what I call a soft failure, clean up and re-lube of the Clutch roller bearings. If the clutch roller bearings can be cleaned up and re-lubed and the clutch spring is not broken then you could be back in service today. If you call in a repair service and they have a clue and don’t shotgun parts into the machine the cost could be around $300+ for the clutch and labor. They won’t clean up and re-lube the clutch bearings. Please See this post for clutch maintenance it’s a recent post. I have some Pic’s that show the clutch and a replacement new clutch recommendation if it comes to that. I’m an owner of the machine and can offer phone support if you need. You can contact me at firstname.lastname@example.org and I can forward you a phone number. Post back anytime and I or someone will be there to help, I hope you can tolerate the down time, so many of these machines are junked for fix that is easy for the average DIY’er. Rich
I'll paste in the basic steps to follow;
Access and remove the Clutch for maintenance
Disconnect 120VAC power cord.
The Service Manual and Sears Parts Direct for reference.
Raise the top of the machine. Insert a flat blade putty knife approximately 2.5” from the left and right sides of the washer top, depress the spring tabs securing machine top to the washer base. See page 33 of the SM for putty knife insertion point.
Remove the front panel see page 41.
3/8 inch socket and socket wrench to remove clutch pulley bolt. Page 47 of the SM
1/2 inch socket or wrench to loosen Drive Motor tension bolt.
5/16 nut driver or 5/16 ¼ socket on an extension to remove front panel see page 41 of the SM.
1. Lean the washer back and blocked in that position for a better reach angle. Rotate 3/8” clutch Pulley Bolt CW to remove clutch bolt.
2. Follow SM page 46 & 47 to remove clutch pulley.
3. Remove 4 screws holding plastic cover on clutch, inspect clutch spring to make sure it is not broken. Inspect roller bearings clean up with WD-40 and re-lube with bearing grease.
4. Replace white bearing plate into clutch pulley hub, insure key slot slips into clutch Spring pin in clutch hub.
5. Replace Clutch plastic cover with 4 screws.
6. Reseat clutch on spinner shaft and rock back and forth while lifting clutch with upward pressure to reseat clutch. When seated properly you will feel a 1/16-1/8" gap between the Pulley face and shaft end as mentioned and shown on page 47 of the SM. On reinstallation, tighten Clutch Pulley bolt CCW to 96” pounds 8’ foot pounds (Snug no torque wrench required).
7. Do a quick wash and make sure clutch runs true with no wobble or clicking sound. If the clutch has not been seated properly it will spin off. If this happens go to page 16 of the SM Board Output Test and turn on Drain Pump in Service Mode to pump out excess water.
8. Repeat steps 6&7 if the clutch has excessive noise or spins off.
Here are some folks that did this maintenance with positive results.
Positive Fix 1/18
Positive Fix 3/4
Positive Fix 3/4 different Forum
Posted on Apr 05, 2009
This isnt really a solution because Im having the same problem. The repair man that came said that is buildup of soap in the water line. I use my own powder soap, not h/e, and its not desolving and getting built up in the lines. Im not sure what to do to get it to stop doing this. He suggested cutting back on the amount of soap and running hot water through the lines which I have done for the last couple of days but I still have this problem.
Posted on Jul 03, 2009
We have a Maytag Performa G3300 that we bought on 8/13/2001. It still works great, but on 2/25/10 it stopped heating. We found that by removing the front panel and vacuuming the accumulated lint on the inside of the dryer and the door, the problem was resolved. There were no parts to replace, just vacuuming.
Posted on Feb 27, 2010
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