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I need a replacement motor for ACA400-12091

2.25 hp 10 amp 90 v Rotation CW RPM 4700 for treadmill Motor runs but slows when person steps on treadmill

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6ya6ya
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Robert Braun
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SOURCE: Need a replacement 1.0 HP motor for Weslo Cadence Tresdmill 200 CS

You can order one through Treadmill Parts

Posted on Nov 13, 2011

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Turn treadmill off. Disconnect drive motor wires from lower control board (Mtr + and Mtr -)
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The motor cant run


Step 1:

see the video and fix it. God bless you


Step 2:

if the problem persist
a)test the input voltage motor, if there ARE voltage the motor need repair, see my personal TIPS for motor help.
b) adjust the output voltage board , for input voltage motor, if there ARE not , the board is faulty, need replace. see the diagram attached.
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Belt stops during workout and have to step offf


you need LUBE in according with the instruction manual maintenance schedule . You have a deck belt worn 2) Test the drive Belt for replace 3) Test the input voltage motor, if there are the motor need repair 4) Test the output voltage from motor board, for input main motor, if there are NOT the board is faulty.
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sincerely. God bless you

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. How do I wire this for forward and reverse use


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Belt squeaking and hesitating when I run


Before beginning this repair: Check to make certain that the drive belt requires adjustment. Check out belt slipping instructions or with the motor cover removed, walk on the belt normally and try to stall the belt to make it slip. Be careful during this test. If the problem is in the drive belt, either the drive belt will stop when stalled or the front roller will stop when stalled. If the motor, drive belt, and front roller continue to turn when the walking belt is stalled, the problem is with the walking belt slipping on the front roller. If the drive belt continues to turn but the front roller stalls, you may have a broken front roller pulley.
Step 1- Find the motor mounts. Many motors in Icon treadmills have a main pivot joint in which a bolt runs the full length of the motor mount. This bolt will require loosening to provide maximum adjustability. Some models have a single jack bolt and others have an auto tensioner. Single jack bolts are the easiest to adjust. Step 2- Find the set bolt(s) on the motor. This is typically run through only one side of the motor mount or may be on both sides but it does not run the full length of the mounting. Loosen this bolt(s) but do not remove. Jack bolt models will have flat mounts and may contain up to four bolts. Step 3- Look for a bolt that will tension the motor. If it has this bolt, it typically runs in the same direction parallel with the drive and walking belts. If your treadmill is not equipped with this bolt, skip to Step 4. If your treadmill is equipped with this bolt (very few are) the repair will only require one person. Using 2 7/16" wrenches, make a few turns to this bolt, tighten the bolts from Steps 1 and 2 and test your treadmill for slipping. If belt continues to slip, repeat Steps 1, 2, & 3. If a second attempt does not repair the problem, skip to Step 5. Step 4- If your treadmill is not equipped with a bolt as described in Step 3, the drive belt must be tensioned by hand. While one person applied increased tension to the drive belt, the other person should tighten the motor set bolt(s) that are described in Step 2. Tighten the bolt from Step 1 and test. If the problem is not corrected, repeat Steps 1, 2, & 4 and retest. If problem persists, skip to Step 5. Step 5- If you have arrived at this step, let's make sure you have a drive belt tension problem. With the motor cover removed, walk on the belt normally and try to stall the belt to make it slip. Be careful during this test. If the problem is in the drive belt, either the drive belt will stop when stalled or the front roller will stop when stalled. If the motor, drive belt, and front roller continue to turn when the walking belt is stalled, the problem is with the walking belt slipping on the front roller. the problem. Another possibility is that the drive belt has worn down. In some cases, belt dressing may help correct the problem. If not, the drive belt must be replaced. Step 6- The belt should be able to be turned by hand at approximately a 90 degree angle from its normal operating position

Jun 02, 2010 | Proform Exercise & Fitness

1 Answer

Proform 765 treadmill slows down when step on. Do


Hi,

More likely time to replace the belt. Let me provide you with all the information you need. This information is already there on many websites.

BELT LOSES POWER
(Bogs Down or is Sluggish) This condition is when the treadmill operates normally without a person on the belt and then slows down when someone steps on the belt or when the treadmill operates normally for a given period of time with someone on the belt then abruptly begins to slow down.
There are four typical causes for this problem (listed in order of our experience:
1) The walking belt and/or deck are worn. (85% of the time)
2) The walking belt and/or motor belt are too tight- if you have adjusted either recently. (8% of the time)
3) The motor has lost torque and needs brushes or has demagnetized. (5% of the time)
4) The controller is dropping output. (2% of the time)
Walking Belt is Worn:
The only certain way to test for a worn walking belt is to take a DC amp draw (if you have a DC treadmill) or an AC draw (for AC). Trying to look at the belt or a feel test is highly unreliable. Better tests, if you lack a DC ammeter (they are expensive for a good one), are a coast test or an incline test. To test the deck, go back to the Troubleshooting section and download the belt and deck inspections instructions. The coast test is to get on the treadmill as the lowest incline setting and walk on the treadmill at 3 MPH. Pull the safety key and it should take you 2-3 full steps to stop (this is a general rule…some like a few Tunturi models stop on a dime even with a healthy belt but most this tests works well upon). Fewer steps indicate high friction.
The incline test is to put the treadmill at max incline and walk on it at 3 MPH. If the treadmill operates normally at max incline but bogs down at minimum incline, replace the walking belt. Gravity takes over for the drive system eliminating the friction problem. On some heavily worn walking belts, this test will not eliminate the problem.
Walking Belt/Motor Belt too Tight:
If you have adjusted the walking belt or motor belt recently, check for this problem. When the belts start slipping, some people just crank down the belts and on treadmills, tighter is not necessarily better. The
tighter the belts, the more the drive system has to work to keep everything moving. You should be able to lift the walking belt (with the treadmill unplugged) in the center of the treadmill about 3” without straining. Tighter belts should be loosen but make sure you don’t create a dangerous slipping situation by loosening.
The motor belt (with the treadmill unplugged) should be able to be turned by hand to almost a 90 degree angle from its normal operating position. Loosen the belt if too tight. Make sure to test for slipping and if it does with the proper tension, replace the motor belt.
Needs Brushes / Demagnetized Motor:
Typically when we find a motor that has lost torque; it needs a new set of motor brushes. Typically we can make brushes for almost any motor if we don’t already stock them. Motor demagnetization is not that common but it does happen and it is normally easy to diagnose. If you have confirmed the belt and/or deck is not worn and the belts aren’t too tight, you can test for a motor torque problem. DO NOT USE YOUR HAND OR ANY OTHER BODY PART TO IMPEDE THE MOTOR…YOU WILL LIKELY LOSE YOUR BODY PART IN THE PROCESS IF THE MOTOR IS GOOD. The step to test for the motor is to use a foreign object preferably on a long shaft. First determine the direction of the motor spin (most have directional movement printed on the motor tag), then apply pressure with an object with downward pressure on the flywheel in the direction the flywheel is turning (do not attempt to put force against the rotating direction of the flywheel as you can easily injure yourself). If you can slow the motor, typically you need brush replacement.
To test for demagnetization, the motor must be disassembled. Once you have the motor retaining bolts removed, remove the motor core by sliding it out of the end of the housing. If the magnets pull the core against the housing and it is difficult to remove, the magnets are good. If the magnets do not attract the core, the motor has to be replaced.
Controller:
This is the most uncommon of the causes. Typically replacing a controller in this situation will not solve the underlying problem and then you will end up replacing a belt as well as a control. Normally if a control is dropping output, it will do it with a person on the belt or not. Tests of DC output dropping is normal in many controls since they have a current limiter which will automatically drop output to prevent burning up the board. This is best diagnosed by eliminating the other possible problems first. If you are left with the control as the cause, replace the control.

The site :-

http://www.treadmilldoctor.com/Treadmill-Belt-Bogs-Down

Any further assistance, let me know.

Hope i helped you.

Thanks for using ' Fixya ' and have a nice day!!

Oct 10, 2009 | Proform Exercise & Fitness

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