Question about Dryers
Hi, my stackable washer dryer unit I believe is broken. The washing machine will notnswitch from fill to wash, and overflowed
There's a water pressure switch that when the water fills the pressure switch gets satisfied and then stops the water and then sends power to the timer or board depending on what machine you have,if the switch doesn't close the washer will just keep filling.the switch could be bad or also there's a clear plastic hose that goes from the switch to the side of the tub,sometimes detergent or or junk that can form in the hose can cause this,i use a plastic tie or a paper clip ,pull off the hose where it connects to the tub and clean it out with the paper clip,if you have an older machine you can blow gently into the hose and you'll hear like a click sound from the switch,if the hose is clear most likely it will be a bad pressure switch.next time send the brand name and model number so whoever is helping you can look up your machine.all washers are not the same
Posted on Jul 10, 2013
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Posted on Jan 02, 2017
SOURCE: washing machine
I'll start with the least expensive problems and work my way up to be somewhat encouraging!
* If the machine fills with water AND it doesn't spin OR pump the water out [and you cannot hear the motor running] the lid switch that triggers the machine may be defective or broken. For safety, washing machines are made so that they cannot spin with the lid open. The lid switch "tells" the washer that the lid is closed, so if it breaks, the washing machine may be able (in some models) to fill but not spin -- in some models, it may not function at all. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the switch. Not sure if this is "kosher"or not, but I have checked this myself without taking anything apart by carefully inserting the tip of my finger into the small hole where the lid closes. When I did push the little pad just beneath the surface of the hole, my machine started working. . . when I moved my finger, it quit, so I knew it was the lid trigger switch that I needed to replace.
* If your machine fills up but won't spin and won't pump water out [but you hear the motor running] it could be the pump pulley that has become "frozen" or stuck. To check this, remove the pump from the washer and try to rotate the pulley by hand. If it won't turn fairly freely -- it it's really stiff or won't move at all, or, if the pump belt is broken -- replace it. Many machines have two belts -- if either is broken, it could result in a problem like the one you've mentioned.
* If the washer pumps water out but won't spin, the motor coupler may be broken. Many machines are made by Whirlpool [Kenmore, Roper, etc. are all made by Whirlpool]. These washers use a small, relatively inexpensive motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. These can wear out with time, and this may be a problem if your machine is an older unit.
* If the washer pumps water out but will not spin or agitate (or, if the water will pump out but the machine will either spin OR agitate but not both), the drive motor may be defective, either totally burned out or only burned out one one of the two sides/directions [the spin/drain is one direction of the reversing motor, the agitation is the opposite direction]. If one of these cycles works and the other doesn't, possibly the drive motor has burned out in one direction only. If this happens, you need to replace the entire motor.
* If you hear a really loud noise when the machine should be spinning, it could be that the spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components let the inner tub spin freely inside the outer tub. This would be a repair for a qualified technician.
Posted on Feb 08, 2008
If you arer going to replace the washer with a Bosch Axxis model, it will simply plug into the back of the dryer (if it is electric) because normally the dryers are 220 VAC. Works A-OK.
Posted on Feb 25, 2009
Ceck the follow instruction just to veryfy what kind of problems your dryer has.
You dont have to buy anything just check all the information that is given to you
Your ratting is very important to me
Was this helful?
Posted on May 22, 2009
9 out of 10 times this is due to a bad roller. This is not something you can do yourself. A stack model is just too complicated.
Posted on Jun 09, 2009
SOURCE: Kenmore washer dryer age?
Next to the serial number there should be a manufacter date. that is when it was made. I am guessing 2 years old.
But check on the back, it is peobaly printed on a small metal tag.
Most electronics have a manufacter date posted on them for warrenty sake. yours may still have a warrenty. you can also go to Kenmore website and in the search area type in the serial number and it can tell lots of info including if it is still under warrenty. wouldn't that be a nice surprise!
Posted on Jul 26, 2009
Tips for a great answer:
Mar 30, 2013 | Whirlpool LTE5243DQ Combination...
Feb 28, 2013 | Maytag LSE7806A Top Load Stacked...
Apr 28, 2011 | GE Spacemaker Washer and Dryer Electric...
Jun 28, 2010 | Maytag LSE7806A Top Load Stacked...
Jun 04, 2010 | Frigidaire FEX831F Top Load Stacked Washer...
May 19, 2010 | Maytag LSE7806A Top Load Stacked...
May 07, 2010 | Kenmore 98702 Stacked Washer/Dryer
Apr 18, 2010 | GE Spacemaker Washer and Dryer Electric...
Apr 28, 2009 | Washing Machines
49 people viewed this question
Usually answered in minutes!